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post #1 of 45 Old 10-17-2016, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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trans finally failed - rebuild or replace?

The 46RE in my 1500 4x4 finally failed at 175k miles.

My options are:
1. pay a local (reliable) shop ~$1500 to rebuild
2. purchase a new trans for $1800 plus shipping
3. purchase a master rebuild kit for $400 and try it myself
3b. purchase a master rebuild kit and new torque converter for $450, pay a transmission builder $400, do the R&R myself

Thoughts?


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09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
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post #2 of 45 Old 10-17-2016, 10:21 AM
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I litterly just got done rebuilding my transmisson (46re 4×4) im 17 and a little mechanicly inclined get the book follow the book and make sure every stack of steels and frictions you pull out you count make sure to soak the frictioms for 30 minutes and also there is a overdrive snapring that dodge redisied beacause its common for breaking into 5 or 6 peaices ( mine was ) i would just get it and there is also a spring in the valve body that should be replaced every 50k so you should probobly just replace that too ( mine was actually broke ) all in all with the help of the book take picture and count and then zip tie each clutch pack togather it isnt so bad also were that snap ring goes in the overdrive ( the one that dodge updateted ) the book does not show it well but there is both a flat and a waved snap ring that goes into that groove also in order to rebuild the overdrive they want you to buy a 100 dollor press attachment and a 50 buck alignment tool well i made my own tool so i was able to use the intermidate shaft from the tranmisson so i didnt need to buy eaither tool i can post pictures and dimensions of that later tonight if you would like also whem u get done make sure you look down the input shaft and make sure that you can see that 2 tabs that lock into the torque converter and make sure that they are in the center of that shaft and when you put the toque converter on CAINT STRESS THIS ENOUGH MAKE SURE YOU HERE 3 THUDS SO YOU KNOW IT LOCKED ONTO ALL THREE SPOTS AND USE LOCKTITE ON THE 4 BOLTS INTO THE TORQUE CONVERTER! If you have any questions or need any help just let me know i can walk you through it
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post #3 of 45 Old 10-17-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chase Anderson View Post
I litterly just got done rebuilding my transmisson (46re 4×4) im 17 and a little mechanicly inclined get the book follow the book and make sure every stack of steels and frictions you pull out you count make sure to soak the frictioms for 30 minutes and also there is a overdrive snapring that dodge redisied beacause its common for breaking into 5 or 6 peaices ( mine was ) i would just get it and there is also a spring in the valve body that should be replaced every 50k so you should probobly just replace that too ( mine was actually broke ) all in all with the help of the book take picture and count and then zip tie each clutch pack togather it isnt so bad also were that snap ring goes in the overdrive ( the one that dodge updateted ) the book does not show it well but there is both a flat and a waved snap ring that goes into that groove also in order to rebuild the overdrive they want you to buy a 100 dollor press attachment and a 50 buck alignment tool well i made my own tool so i was able to use the intermidate shaft from the tranmisson so i didnt need to buy eaither tool i can post pictures and dimensions of that later tonight if you would like also whem u get done make sure you look down the input shaft and make sure that you can see that 2 tabs that lock into the torque converter and make sure that they are in the center of that shaft and when you put the toque converter on CAINT STRESS THIS ENOUGH MAKE SURE YOU HERE 3 THUDS SO YOU KNOW IT LOCKED ONTO ALL THREE SPOTS AND USE LOCKTITE ON THE 4 BOLTS INTO THE TORQUE CONVERTER! If you have any questions or need any help just let me know i can walk you through it
It's tempting, and you make it sound easy.
I think I could do the work, but I don't have the special tools you mentioned.
If you could show me how exactly you got away without using the special order tools that would be awesome.
And I'm tracking on the t/c installation being fully seated on the pump.
Wonder if I can flush the t/c and reuse it?

I found a local guy that used to work in a trans shop, he is going to do the removal, rebuild, and install for $500 labor.
I will purchase the HD master rebuild kit for $400.
The local tran shop wanted $1800-$2100...can't do that.


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post #4 of 45 Old 10-17-2016, 10:40 PM
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Its mainly coming down too if it was me id just replace the torque converter you can get one from rock auto online for 150 with a 50 buck core and it is pretty simple its just really intimidating thats all i was intimaded before i did it now i will tell you removeal and instal is harder than acutally rebuilding it let me know if you are going to do it yourself i only had to make 1 tool its pretty simple to make as well
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post #5 of 45 Old 10-18-2016, 08:47 PM
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our TQs can not be flushed and reused. if its questionable or contaminated, just get a new one.

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post #6 of 45 Old 10-19-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chase Anderson View Post
Its mainly coming down too if it was me id just replace the torque converter you can get one from rock auto online for 150 with a 50 buck core and it is pretty simple its just really intimidating thats all i was intimaded before i did it now i will tell you removeal and instal is harder than acutally rebuilding it let me know if you are going to do it yourself i only had to make 1 tool its pretty simple to make as well
It's looking like I will do the removal and reinstall, but the person with experience is going to do the rebuild.
I am also looking at getting a B&M or TCI shift improvement kit to go in while it's apart.
Yesterday I supported the front of the truck safely on jack stands, then pulled the front & rear drive shafts out, and removed skid plate.


Quote:
Originally Posted by spun360 View Post
our TQs can not be flushed and reused. if its questionable or contaminated, just get a new one.
Good to know, I'll probably replace it with a new one.
The torque converter still works, but the fluid got scorched when the trans failed.
I'd hate to contaminate a new trans rebuild with used fluid from the torque converter.

Are there any brands I should stay away from regarding rebuild packages or converters?
I have found ATP rebuild kits for a low as $130, the TCI kits start at $225.

I would like to get a slighly higher than stock stall converter to get a little better off the line pull when towing heavy loads, but still retain the lock up function. I think the stock converter has a 2100 stall, i was wanting a 2700.
Torco offiers a 2300 - 2800 stall for ~$200 shipped, but I have not heard of the brand before.

sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to only do this once.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear shot ds out.jpg (59.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg on standsedited.jpg (208.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg trans case and front undersideedited.jpg (139.5 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg skid plate.jpg (70.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg rear shotedited.jpg (91.7 KB, 10 views)


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post #7 of 45 Old 10-19-2016, 09:17 AM
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your next step will be to remove the farthest back cross member then remove all the linkages and lines they all hook up on drivers side of the truck there is also 2 vacuum lines on top of the transfer case don't forget about them and one under the back of the transmission then pull the starter and the cover for the flywheel and torque coveter pull all 4 bolts out of the torque converter then put a jack under the transmission and jack up a little get the transmission to cross member bracket out then you have to get that fwd cross member out that sucks because it's a tapered fit so have fun getting it out then lower the transmission down and take off the transfer case ( better to remove them in 2 pieces less weight ) then remove the bell hosing bolts pull the make sure nothing is still connected I think I have covered everything then you just have to slide the transmission back and then lower the hole transmission back any questions just let me know ill walk you through anything if u need help text me for faster replies 651-249-9382

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post #8 of 45 Old 10-19-2016, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chizzle1 View Post
It's looking like I will do the removal and reinstall, but the person with experience is going to do the rebuild.
I am also looking at getting a B&M or TCI shift improvement kit to go in while it's apart.
Yesterday I supported the front of the truck safely on jack stands, then pulled the front & rear drive shafts out, and removed skid plate.




Good to know, I'll probably replace it with a new one.
The torque converter still works, but the fluid got scorched when the trans failed.
I'd hate to contaminate a new trans rebuild with used fluid from the torque converter.

Are there any brands I should stay away from regarding rebuild packages or converters?
I have found ATP rebuild kits for a low as $130, the TCI kits start at $225.

I would like to get a slighly higher than stock stall converter to get a little better off the line pull when towing heavy loads, but still retain the lock up function. I think the stock converter has a 2100 stall, i was wanting a 2700.
Torco offiers a 2300 - 2800 stall for ~$200 shipped, but I have not heard of the brand before.

sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to only do this once.
I like my 2400 patc TQ. stalled at 2800 for the first few thousand miles! had to break in and settle down a little bit

parts for sale
ask about my treadwright retread experience
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$pay shipping: new, super strength moog #377 frt axle hub universal w/ grease fitting
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post #9 of 45 Old 10-20-2016, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chase Anderson View Post
your next step will be to remove the farthest back cross member then remove all the linkages and lines they all hook up on drivers side of the truck there is also 2 vacuum lines on top of the transfer case don't forget about them and one under the back of the transmission then pull the starter and the cover for the flywheel and torque coveter pull all 4 bolts out of the torque converter then put a jack under the transmission and jack up a little get the transmission to cross member bracket out then you have to get that fwd cross member out that sucks because it's a tapered fit so have fun getting it out then lower the transmission down and take off the transfer case ( better to remove them in 2 pieces less weight ) then remove the bell hosing bolts pull the make sure nothing is still connected I think I have covered everything then you just have to slide the transmission back and then lower the hole transmission back any questions just let me know ill walk you through anything if u need help text me for faster replies 651-249-9382
thanks for the walk through. Do I need to remove the tran case floor shifter boot inside the cabin?
I am hoping I don't get any breakage when removing the linkage for the shifter and trans case.




Quote:
Originally Posted by spun360 View Post
I like my 2400 patc TQ. stalled at 2800 for the first few thousand miles! had to break in and settle down a little bit
At the price PATC wants for a torque converter, the $200 option I found doesn't seem that steep.
Does the extra rpm seem to help any with pulling from a stop? Do the rpms need to be significantly higher to creep?

this is the one I am thinking about going with, about $30 more than stock.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-A51...VU1owZ&vxp=mtr


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09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
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SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl

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post #10 of 45 Old 10-20-2016, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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After reading up on the differences in power delivery between higher stall and stock, I may go with stock.
The machined intake, tune, and other mods I have done to the 5.9 all increased low end torque.
The final dyno tune I conducted showed torque already at max below 2600 rpms, that is the lowest RPM we could start the WOT dyno pull at without causing a downshift. The torque carried until 4500 which is when the HP curve came in and peaked, it works very well.

If I install a higher stall converter, say 2400-2800, I may not be able to put max torque to the ground until the torque converter locks up at 40 mph.

thoughts?
Are Dacco or Torco decent torque converters? the reviews seem positive


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl

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post #11 of 45 Old 10-20-2016, 07:47 PM
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as for high stalls go,. it really depends on the brand. some stalls come out real soft and loose under the stall speed. patc actually has a very tight converter. my 2400 still idles up to speed from a dead stop. it isn't mushy at all under stall speed.
for stockers I would second the rumor dacco converters are good quality.

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$pay shipping: new, standard oil pump
$pay shipping: new, super strength moog #377 frt axle hub universal w/ grease fitting
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post #12 of 45 Old 10-21-2016, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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I'm on the fence about the torque converter brand. Advanced has a dacco for ~$125 and ebay has a Torco for $144 shipped.
I still need to source the cheapest place for ATF+4 fluid also.
Dry fill for the stock trans is 9.5 quarts, add the deep pan that would put me at 12 quarts, plus the cooler and lines...the fluids are going to run half what the rebuild kit did.

edit: found 12 qts for $43 on prime
https://www.amazon.com/Havoline-2222...5%3A2470955011


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl

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post #13 of 45 Old 10-24-2016, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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all cross members and trans case removed. I'm not sure how I'm going to turn the engine over to access the torque converter bolts...probably a BFW and a socket on the crank bolt.
I think I'll be able to leave the exhaust in place and still have room to pull the trans.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg trans support removed.jpg (68.3 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg trans case 2.jpg (79.3 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg trans case.jpg (69.4 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg trans case 1.jpg (77.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg trans case removed.jpg (77.6 KB, 13 views)


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl

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post #14 of 45 Old 10-24-2016, 01:17 PM
Chase Anderson
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Yes u can leave the exaust and im only 17 and 120 pounds and was able to grab the bottom pully and just roll the motor over with my hands just pull the trans stright back then down it will clear the exsaust
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post #15 of 45 Old 10-24-2016, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yes u can leave the exaust and im only 17 and 120 pounds and was able to grab the bottom pully and just roll the motor over with my hands just pull the trans stright back then down it will clear the exsaust
that's pretty impressive if the plugs were still in it...and while I don't have the factory manifolds or y-pipe to deal with, I was worried about it hitting the collectors on the headers.
I'll probably use a BFW to roll the motor over, I'm not as young as I used to be


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl
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post #16 of 45 Old 10-25-2016, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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The four torque convert bolts are out, but I've hit a bump with the linkage and pulling the dipstick.
I can't really see the linkage thanks to all the mud and rust that's packed up into there.
I have the TV cable disconnected, I'll try and find a diagram online.
I need to make sure I have everything disconnected as I'll be dropping the trans by hand (I don't have a trans jack or floor jack that lifts high enough).

More to follow.

edit: I finally found a pic of the piece that's giving me a hard time. Looks like I just need to pry the linkage out and hope for the best or unbolt it. The lower bolt is out already, I sprayed the upper bolt with some penetrating oil yesterday. This afternoon it has a date with Bertha (my large air impact wrench).
It's the piece with the red circle around it, I found this on a jeep forum...not my truck.
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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl

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post #17 of 45 Old 10-25-2016, 10:09 AM
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Ok the peice with the red circle has a bar in it what i did was go to the other side of the frame drivers side and there was 3 bolts i pulled them out and was able to pull the bar out of the the trans and leave the hole mount and yea you are able to clear the headers if i was you i would make something out of would to put on your floor jack so you can reach the oil pan ( make it easyer to get in as well ) also that other thing circled in yellow that will just have a rubber gemet and the linage will just pry out of the gromet any more questions feel free to ask
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post #18 of 45 Old 10-25-2016, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok the peice with the red circle has a bar in it what i did was go to the other side of the frame drivers side and there was 3 bolts i pulled them out and was able to pull the bar out of the the trans and leave the hole mount and yea you are able to clear the headers if i was you i would make something out of would to put on your floor jack so you can reach the oil pan ( make it easyer to get in as well ) also that other thing circled in yellow that will just have a rubber gemet and the linage will just pry out of the gromet any more questions feel free to ask
thanks for the information about the linkage, I will hopefully be able to pry that one piece off without breaking the nylon bushing.
All that's left after the linkage is the electrical connections and the bell housing bolts.
Getting close to removal time.
I am hoping I can bear hug the sum bitch down without crushing myself...I can't imaging that it's heavier than the trans case was.


Will the engine support itself without a jack on the oil pan, once the trans is removed?
If not I'll need to run a rachet strap from one frame rail to the other to support it (I only have one jack).


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl
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post #19 of 45 Old 10-27-2016, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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trans is out, what a heavy SOB. The torque converter fell out forward when I was tipping the trans down, I am replacing it anyway.
I had to use every socket extension I own to reach the bell housing bolts from the back of the trans, the long tube headers were in the way.

All parts have arrived - new Dacco torque converter, shift improvement and circulation kit, master rebuild kit, kevlar for and reverse bands.

I am debating on attempting the rebuild myself...but I need to find the book and the tools.
And I have no way to check if it's functioning correctly. I have seen the guy that works on them using air to check for engagement, not sure how the hell to make sure I'm putting it together correctly and if it works once I'm done.
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File Type: jpg trans out 3.jpg (167.7 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg trans out 2.jpg (87.0 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg trans out 1.jpg (222.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg extension.jpg (175.2 KB, 16 views)


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17 Ram 1500 CC Laramie 4x4 Eco Diesel - Brilliant Black, fully loaded
10 Challenger R/T 6M in Brilliant black 6.1 based 426 @ 11:1 NA Howards Cam,ported heads & intake, 52# Deatschwerks injectors, AFR shaker, Derale oil cooler, Barton STS, SRT8 shorties/mids,BBK 85,HP tuned,Jet 180*,BT Catch Can,SLP line locks,DRL,skip shift delete,splash guards-alu dash kit,MP hood struts,BT Mopar nose-fuel door-sill plates, sequential tails,marker blackouts,392 chin spoiler,tint, T-rex billet grill, Pirelli tires,MyGig 730N,rear cam, park sense.
09 Suzuki 1255S Bandit Metallic Blue on black, 1255cc I-4, 6 spd, Yoshi can, Givi screen, K&N, Bags Connection tank bag, TPX fuzz buster, Techmount GPS holder, Suzuki center stand, World Performance Seat
SOLD 01 Ram 5.9 Sport QC 4x4 - 180k+, current project - SCT Stage1 custom tune via Hemifever, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 roller rockers, Modded Kegger, 52mm TB,180* t-stat,e-fans, pacesetter long tube headers, true duals with spun cats, Jones full-boar mufflers, 4.56s front & rear, LSD, 35x12.50 Cooper MTPs on 3rd gen Dodge 20"s, 3"TC lift, rebuilt 46RE w/HD internals, PML Deep Pan,MAXtow Tranny Temp gauge,Rebuilt 231D,TSC Diamond Box, Sony head unit, on-board air
SOLD 13 Dart Limited Pitch black, fully loaded, hers
SOLD 06 Hemi Durango 4x4 Limited in Atlantic Blue Pearl
SOLD 97 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie in DuPont Frost White Pearl
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post #20 of 45 Old 10-28-2016, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chizzle1 View Post
trans is out, what a heavy SOB. The torque converter fell out forward when I was tipping the trans down, I am replacing it anyway.
I had to use every socket extension I own to reach the bell housing bolts from the back of the trans, the long tube headers were in the way.

All parts have arrived - new Dacco torque converter, shift improvement and circulation kit, master rebuild kit, kevlar for and reverse bands.

I am debating on attempting the rebuild myself...but I need to find the book and the tools.
And I have no way to check if it's functioning correctly. I have seen the guy that works on them using air to check for engagement, not sure how the hell to make sure I'm putting it together correctly and if it works once I'm done.
The book can be found on ebay for about 30 bucks type in 46re rebuild book and tonight or tomarow i will get a few pics of the 2 tools i made with messurements i honestly would say the hard part would be getting the trans in and out rebuilding it isnt all that bad the book will show you were to put pressure to make sure the bands move correctly my only issue after rebuilding mine is the valve body but i didnt rebuild that so yeah ive got to go do that now
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