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post #21 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 12:02 PM
NightRider
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Looks good... finally some pictures.. that is a burden off my shoulders. I have been tossing and turning for nights trying to think what it looks like =D...

Even if your fabrication isn't that good.. it doesn't hurt to try. You could also buy a metal box from like walmart (a box not car related) then cut it apart to get what you need. If that ever crossed your mind. Looks good though, just do what I did, get kicked out of college. Then you will have lots of time for the Ram and DT.

-Pat-

=D
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post #22 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
kriggo15
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thanks for the educational advice. 1 yr left... lol what kind of box would I look for in walmart. would it have to be metal or could it be fiberglass or something like that?

94 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport
5.2L 318c.i. V8
Summit Torque Converter
Tonneau bed cover
Mandrel bent dual exhaust
15 inch JL 800 watt sub
500 watt MTX amp
235K miles and still goin' strong
Homemade, Custom Cold-Air-Intake
Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic converter
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post #23 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriggo15
right now the zip tie and wing nut are holding it well. I will be making a bracket soon. I rotate the airhat alor already and may need a longer breather hose to complete that. Should I move the IAT sensor as well? If so, should I move it into the airhat ot the tube, because I'm not sure how long the sensor wire is?
You could move the sensor to the hat but I
would move it down the tube. Closer to the
fliter. You will need to extent the wires though.
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post #24 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 12:50 PM
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I put mine in my tube and didn't have to extend the wire at all.

Former Owner of a 2000 Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L Sport. Traded it in on a Honda Accord EX. Yes I'm a traitor, I know.
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post #25 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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could you notice any difference after it was moved?

94 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport
5.2L 318c.i. V8
Summit Torque Converter
Tonneau bed cover
Mandrel bent dual exhaust
15 inch JL 800 watt sub
500 watt MTX amp
235K miles and still goin' strong
Homemade, Custom Cold-Air-Intake
Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic converter
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post #26 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 05:22 PM
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I was looking to do the same thing as you but what did you use to as the bolt for the air hat?
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post #27 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 10:57 PM
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Like your air intake. Relocate your IAT in the tubing, the wiring should be long enough. If not splice in some wire. You did a good job.
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post #28 of 37 Old 04-28-2005, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramchad
I was looking to do the same thing as you but what did you use to as the bolt for the air hat?
when I ordered the airhat form 360airintakez, the S bolt and wing nut caem with it.

94 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport
5.2L 318c.i. V8
Summit Torque Converter
Tonneau bed cover
Mandrel bent dual exhaust
15 inch JL 800 watt sub
500 watt MTX amp
235K miles and still goin' strong
Homemade, Custom Cold-Air-Intake
Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic converter
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post #29 of 37 Old 04-29-2005, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriggo15
could you notice any difference after it was moved?
Ehh not really per say.. I think it has a little better response, but i donno if that it really true or just the Placebo effect.

Former Owner of a 2000 Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L Sport. Traded it in on a Honda Accord EX. Yes I'm a traitor, I know.
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post #30 of 37 Old 04-29-2005, 08:03 AM
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Just any box, if it is metal you would have to line it with something that isn't conducive to heat, just get out the cutting wheel and chop the top off of it and a circle at the end so the tube can go in. It isn't something you have to do, just a thought, if it were me I would weld up a box and line it, then paint it to match and finally install it.

The more you shield that from the hot motor air and allow cold air in, the better off you will be, remember hot air rises.

-Pat-
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post #31 of 37 Old 04-29-2005, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the info and comments.

94 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport
5.2L 318c.i. V8
Summit Torque Converter
Tonneau bed cover
Mandrel bent dual exhaust
15 inch JL 800 watt sub
500 watt MTX amp
235K miles and still goin' strong
Homemade, Custom Cold-Air-Intake
Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic converter
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post #32 of 37 Old 04-30-2005, 05:11 AM
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where did you get the air hat from??
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post #33 of 37 Old 05-03-2005, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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the air hat is from www.360airintakez.com

94 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport
5.2L 318c.i. V8
Summit Torque Converter
Tonneau bed cover
Mandrel bent dual exhaust
15 inch JL 800 watt sub
500 watt MTX amp
235K miles and still goin' strong
Homemade, Custom Cold-Air-Intake
Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic converter
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post #34 of 37 Old 08-03-2005, 11:33 PM
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i've been told to remove the i.a.t and relocate it onto the tube. and plug the hole that you created when you pulled out the iat in it's stock place. the closer you can get the i a t the better
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post #35 of 37 Old 08-04-2005, 05:33 PM
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How does the gas mileage differ from the stock filter system? I think you did a good job with your design. It's nice to see people use the ol' noggin instead of buying all the expensive premade parts. Hope it works well for you. Good job!!

Rick

99' Dodge Ram QC Sport 4x4
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Last edited by sharphome; 08-04-2005 at 05:39 PM.
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post #36 of 37 Old 08-07-2005, 09:50 AM
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Looks nice!! I was just wondering if the air hat uses the original gasket or did it come with one and did it seem to seal well? And where did you also get the 3" ABS pipe?
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post #37 of 37 Old 08-07-2005, 09:56 AM
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That intake shows marks of someone trying to do a good job without spending un-necessary money. Hand's on work deserves praise. Below is a repost of some ideas about testing air intakes. Please don't take offense, they are just suggestions for further experiments, along with short comments about what engineers at both automakers and aftermarket companies have found in careful tests in the past.
---

There has been lots of careful scientific testing of all kinds of air intakes
and the result is that they neither increase/decrease MPG on gasoline engines.

If less restrictive air inlet system improved MPG,
after the last 20 yrs of C.A.F.E. government standards,
you would now see massive air intakes with 3 foot high by 6 foot wide
openings - even on the smallest 4 cyl compact.

Honda told its student engineers to do everything possible on the Insight
Hybrid to get the greatest possible MPG (they were in a competition with
Porsche's grandson Ferdinand Piech who as Audi CEO was building the A3
aluminum body/3 cyl diesel as the world's highest MPG car)

Honda used every known trick in the gasoline engineering book to get over 70
MPG to beat Audi's fuel economy of 3 liters per 100 km on diesel.

Go look at the air intake of a Honda Insight.
What do you see?

A properly designed air intake can give modest increases of torque and
horsepower at wide open throttle - but sometimes this comes at the cost of
increased noise or filters that get clogged with bugs and dirt faster.

More thoughts on air filters from another post:
------------------------
If you want a quick answer skip to the end of this message where it says 'Well
in a nutshell'.

But if you want a real answer you can trust, then.......

Go down to Sears and buy one of the $30-70 multimeters with the temperature
probe. Sometimes they are on sale for $19

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...0&bidsite=CRAFT



Then buy one of these $30 gauges that can measure low pressures and buy a
length of plastic tubing about 10 feet long to attach to it:

http://flw.com/olash2.htm#1490



Get the 30/30" pressure model.

If you don't want to spend this money you can also make a simple "U tube
manometer" with just a 20 foot length of clear plastic tubing. do a Google
search.

Now drill small holes in your stock air filter housing and air inlet tubing,
like at:

1. at the begining of the inlet tube
2. in front of the air filter element
3. behind the air filter element
4. near the throttle body connection

Put a fresh new air filter element in your stock filter box. Go out on a road
with little traffic and measure the temperature and pressures at your small
hole test points of the stock system when the engine is at wide open throttle
through the 2000 to 6000 rpm range.

If you find between two points that the temperature goes up, then the air is
picking up heat in that length between the two points. (i predict you won't
find much heat pickup)

If you find that the pressures go down between two points then there is
restriction in that section, like across the filter element ( i predict you
will only find a small restriction across the paper element of the filter)

Now try moving the air inlet to the stock filter box from its stock location
to other places - like the grille top or bottom. Look for a place where the
pressure is highest and the temperature is lowest. (I predict you will find
that the cavity behind the firewall and below the windshield will be best -
this is also where your air vents pick up air to ventilate the truck's cabin)

Now, if you are a bit more adventurous try the following experiment:

With all the stock air system in place, put the truck in 2nd gear and measure
with a stop watch how many seconds it takes to accelerate from 3000 rpm to
6000 rpm with wide open throttle. Do this test 3 times and average the
result.

Now if you are a little more daring and have found a clean road with little
dust in the air, think about doing the following 2 tests (it is optional but
informative)

Do the same test from 3000 to 6000 rpm, but with the paper air filter removed
from the box, and the box closed back up. This is the 'no filter but cool air
pickup' test.

Then do the same test, but with the air intake system removed and the throttle
body opening sucking the hot air from underneath the hood. This is the 'no
filter hot air pickup test.'

{The above tests sound dangerous without an air filter, but I can tell you
that many highway patrol officers removed the air filters on their cars in the
1970s. I have personally seen people pour uncooked rice down carburetors to
scour out carbon deposits. Lack of an air filter over long periods will cause
the bore walls and piston rings to wear out much quicker, but a quick test has
little effect unless you are unlucky enough to get a large chunk of something
down the throttle. If you are worried you can cover the throttle opening with
some eighth inch hole window screen material**

Now go order the aftermarket air inlet systems of your choice and repeat the
pressure, temperature and 3000-6000 rpm acceleration tests in 2nd gear. Send
back the systems that don't do as well as the best for a refund of your money.

Report your results to Dodge truck forums.
You will be a hero to some,
the worst possible news to others selling junk.

Don't want to do all this testing?

Well, in a nutshell just remount your stock air box so that it will suck air
out of the cavity behind the firewall and below the windshield where your air
vents presently get their air. This spot will give you cooler air, higher
pressure air, and it will not pickup bugs/road grit as badly as an inlet near
the front grill.

Why didn't Dodge suck air from this spot in the first place?

Because with the air vent inlets there it allows A LOT of NOISE to go into the
truck's cabin.

As a matter of fact, most aftermarket air intakes JUST MAKE EXTRA NOISE. This
extra noise convinces most owners that they are making more horsepower - no
kidding.

Notice that I have not said to do dyno testing on your air intakes...I have
said do road tests.

Why?

Because you can't really test an aftermarket air intake system on a dyno where
the vehicle is not moving and an electric fan is blowing air at the radiator.
This makes it SO EASY TO CHEAT that you can make any air intake show a HP
increase on the dyno graph. Don't trust any dyno graph that claims to show an
aftermarket air intake horsepower gain. Realistic airflow around the vehicle
is critical to seeing whether it really works.
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