TIMING CHAIN REPLACE-ADVANCE or NOT? - Page 3 - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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post #41 of 46 Old 03-30-2008, 04:32 PM
trucklover
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Originally Posted by 94RAM5spd


Remove all the rocker arms and keep them in order so the valves will not be bent.
I have the rocker arms from the #1 cylinder removed, but none of the others. (I also removed all the spark plugs so the engine would turn easier)How would a valve get bent on the other cylinders that I am not using the piston stop on?

2001 1500 Dodge Ram QC 4x4 360 Magnum
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EQ 2.02 heads
2200 PATC stall
cut & ported intake & 52mm TB
stainless steel headers
KRC 210X cam
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post #42 of 46 Old 03-30-2008, 05:07 PM
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Take all the rocker arms off so there is less tension when rotating the crank. With a piston stop you will be rotating it both clockwise and counter clockwise to find TDC. The crane link is an excellent step by step instruction.

"Abandon All Hope"

'91 LX(aka The Rolling Emissions Violation), .030 zero deck, 4.10 gears, Off road H- pipe/flows, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, GT-40 tubular intake, Stormin' Normin Hood, pro-m 75mm MAF, TF stage 1 cam, pullies, a/c delete, Tir-state GT-40P's, Crane Hi-6S,
3420 w/ 13gal and 220lbs driver (me), *currently down due to cracked block.*

'77 Aspen R/T; 318 w/ Magnum heads, Headman tight tubes, Super Stock Springs, Mopar M-1 intake, 4 spd Hurst shifter, Holley 600 cfm, Mallory Hi-Fire VIal,
8 3/4 Rear, MP761 cam 228/231 .480/.485

'84 W150 318/4spd/4x4 SWB (aka "the tank"); LT Headers, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer intake, Stock rebuilt #302 Heads, Summit 6900 Cam, Gun Rack.*I dont know what Ill do with this yet now that I have the RAM.*

'94 RAM 1500 5.2L/5spd/4x4; MP PCM, 180 deg Thermo

'05 Neon SXT; stock

'96 5.9L Magnum Motor complete with Harness.
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post #43 of 46 Old 04-15-2008, 01:44 PM
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I put a new timing set on in November and used the 4 degree advance setting. It made just a small improvement in low end torque but did not give a noticeable increase in mileage. Disappointed to say the least. My advice- use the 4+ advance if you have to replace your timing set due to age and wear, but don't bother just because. As for the Superchips 3715, didn't do much for me so look for something better. I don't want to spend the money for SCT but might buy the new Hypertech E-Con. Wish I could figure out how to hack the damn thing and experiment on my own.
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post #44 of 46 Old 04-15-2008, 01:53 PM
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I put a new timing set on in November and used the 4 degree advance setting. It made just a small improvement in low end torque but did not give a noticeable increase in mileage. Disappointed to say the least. My advice- use the 4+ advance if you have to replace your timing set due to age and wear, but don't bother just because. As for the Superchips 3715, didn't do much for me so look for something better. I don't want to spend the money for SCT but might buy the new Hypertech E-Con. Wish I could figure out how to hack the damn thing and experiment on my own.
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post #45 of 46 Old 04-15-2008, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbehr55
I put a new timing set on in November and used the 4 degree advance setting. It made just a small improvement in low end torque but did not give a noticeable increase in mileage. Disappointed to say the least. My advice- use the 4+ advance if you have to replace your timing set due to age and wear, but don't bother just because.

If you really wanted to stick with the stock cam, verify the valve events and plug it into a cam doctor. They will be able to give you the best way to set it up. Personally I would pull that POS cam, but that's just me. I dont recommend just advancing it until you verify it. Bad habit to get into.

"Abandon All Hope"

'91 LX(aka The Rolling Emissions Violation), .030 zero deck, 4.10 gears, Off road H- pipe/flows, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, GT-40 tubular intake, Stormin' Normin Hood, pro-m 75mm MAF, TF stage 1 cam, pullies, a/c delete, Tir-state GT-40P's, Crane Hi-6S,
3420 w/ 13gal and 220lbs driver (me), *currently down due to cracked block.*

'77 Aspen R/T; 318 w/ Magnum heads, Headman tight tubes, Super Stock Springs, Mopar M-1 intake, 4 spd Hurst shifter, Holley 600 cfm, Mallory Hi-Fire VIal,
8 3/4 Rear, MP761 cam 228/231 .480/.485

'84 W150 318/4spd/4x4 SWB (aka "the tank"); LT Headers, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer intake, Stock rebuilt #302 Heads, Summit 6900 Cam, Gun Rack.*I dont know what Ill do with this yet now that I have the RAM.*

'94 RAM 1500 5.2L/5spd/4x4; MP PCM, 180 deg Thermo

'05 Neon SXT; stock

'96 5.9L Magnum Motor complete with Harness.
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post #46 of 46 Old 04-16-2008, 06:28 AM
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I ended up setting mine 2 degrees advanced (after degreeing the cam, thanks to a lot of help from 94Ram5spd!). It has about the same bottom end as it did with the 4 degree (a little difference not much) but it does pull better on a long grade when you are using higher RPM. If I did a lot of off-roading and low RPM driving the 4 degree works well. I mostly do on-road driving so I do need some performance in the middle rpm range (around 3200-4000 rpm). That is why I decided to split the 4 degree advance, that way I get better performance all the way around. But all engines are different, that is why it is very important to check where your cam is before you mess with the timing. Like someone mentioned before, I would not do this unless I was changing the timing chain.

2001 1500 Dodge Ram QC 4x4 360 Magnum
God Squad member #60
4.56 GEARS!!
SCT Tuner by Hemifever
EQ 2.02 heads
2200 PATC stall
cut & ported intake & 52mm TB
stainless steel headers
KRC 210X cam
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Powertrax No-Slip Locker
Rough Country Shocks
Rough Country Steering Stabilizer
Flowmaster Catback dual exhaust system
Hughes Engines Plenum Kit
M1 2bbl Intake
Moroso 14" Low Profile Chrome Airhat
add-a-leaf in the rear
2" Leveling Kit from Top Gun Customz
Rebuilt engine!!
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