Thermostat - Page 2 - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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post #21 of 29 Old 02-22-2006, 07:49 PM
85_ram
 
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My 160 might open at 160 but my temp.doesn't stop there. It stays at 180 when i'm driving around town and if I'm I keep the rpm's over 3,000 it runs at 200. If you put in a 100 deg thermastat in are trucks it would open at 100 but it would increase to 180 or more depending on how your driving.[QUOTE]

But what is your reason for running a 160 degree stat, performance, mpg? The reason behind a 195 degree stat is to keep the engine as close to a STABLE operating temp as possible ( around 200 degrees is what is suggested for long life out of a normally driven engine). A engine temp that fluctuates 20 + degrees is not good for a normal engine ( but it depends on your application, ie performance).
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post #22 of 29 Old 02-22-2006, 09:49 PM
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In theory...
It is possible that a cooler thermostat will help with detonation (knocking) issues due to the fact that the computer isnt seeing a fully warmed engine and still running it on the rich side. A common reason for detonation is a lean mixture. This is why the plenum gasket issue causes detonation...The plenum gasket leaking leads to an oil leak in the intake that in turn allows carbon build up behind the intake valves which everyone knows that carbon will "soak up" fuel from the incoming air fuel charge and lead to a lean condition. So with a cooler thermostat you get a little more fuel and compensate for that problem. Heat is another cause of detonation...the compressed air fuel mixture heats up and explodes spontaniously. Therefore a cooler thermostat leads to a cooler engine which could help compensate for this problem. BUT in a nice clean engine the 195 is the best for every system. The engineers that built em aint no dummies!! As for a cooler thermostat creating more power...I DONT THINK SO!!...everyone knows that a slightly lean charge creates the most power...this is what a lot of the aftermarket progammers do, they give you the most timing with the least fuel without creating detonation, the reason most of them require premium fuel...so if you are putting in a cooler thermostat you are making the engine richer...where do you get power from that??...And if you are making things richer you run the risk of making MORE carbon deposites from the extra fuel...we all know what the carbon deposits do...
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post #23 of 29 Old 02-23-2006, 08:24 AM
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I've done alot of driving in my time, drag racing, road racing, street racing, and daily driving. I love some of the input you get from people. I know what works, I don't have any of the problems that people talk about with running a 160 therm. If you noticed our engines turn less than 2,000 rpms on the hwy at 65. At those speeds our engine don't produce much heat. Now take the O/D off and drive on the hwy at 3,000 rpms or higher see how hot your temp rises. Even with the 160 I'm at 200 deg and it never goes below 180.

Yes I think I would have carbon buildup or other problems assocaited with running the engine cooler but I don't. If I didn't have winter where I live I'd have no thermastat and would run a restricter. Thank you HankL your info is very detailed right down to the valience electrons and protons. I'm not the smartest rocket scientist out there, but I know what I know.
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post #24 of 29 Old 02-23-2006, 08:43 AM
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But if you are running 180-200 with a 160 thermostat then what is the point of having it in there at all...at 160 it opens up and stays open...thats why it goes higher than that...it seems to me that if winter is so cold there you would want that thing running as hot as possible at all times...and stay stable...I dont understad the logic?? But its this logic that keeps me in business fixing your cars and trucks and I appreciate the income!!
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post #25 of 29 Old 02-24-2006, 06:35 AM
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ACRDAVE writes that his experience is:
---
If you noticed our engines turn less than 2,000 rpms on the hwy at 65. At those speeds our engine don't produce much heat. Now take the O/D off and drive on the hwy at 3,000 rpms or higher see how hot your temp rises. Even with the 160 I'm at 200 deg and it never goes below 180.
---

ACRDAVE, what your experiment there is showing the effect of internal engine friction at higher rpms...thanks for posting that.

As RPM goes up, internal friction goes up as the 'cube function'

This means as the RPM doubles, the friction goes up not by double, but by eight (8) times.

If somehow we could get the typical driver to understand both
Torque and internal engine friction
- the USA would start saving billions of $ in saved fuel
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post #26 of 29 Old 02-24-2006, 07:52 AM
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I do what truck drivers do, you restrict how much cooling air passes thru the radiator.
If we want the USA to save billions in fuel cost, our goverment should stop doing all that flying and touch and go landings. There pilots don't need that much seat time. I live next to a airport and there just burning gas for no good reason.
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post #27 of 29 Old 02-24-2006, 08:02 AM
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Yes you might think your feeling the effects of friction in the internals of the engine, but it's not the friction causing all that heat it's the fuel burning that causes all that heat. The faster your engine turns the more fuel it burns, the more fuel it burns the hotter your engine will be. yada yada yada lol
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post #28 of 29 Old 02-24-2006, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
If somehow we could get the typical driver to understand both
Torque and internal engine friction
- the USA would start saving billions of $ in saved fuel

This reply is getting way past the original post but,The typical driver doesn't know this, and really shouldn't have to, why doesn't the automobile industry design a better type of engine? The current internal combustion engine has been around for more than 100 years, and really hasn't changed in design. Time for something new......
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post #29 of 29 Old 02-25-2006, 07:02 AM
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Someone who is up to doing experiments
could remove their thermostat entirely
and cut/weld in an electrically controlled valve
in the tall metal nipple above the thermostat flange.

If you hooked this electric valve to a temperature controller
(there are several adjustable ones for electric fan control)
you could then have an adjustable thermostat.

For much cheaper & simpler you could also just put in a cable operated valve
and keep a 180 thermostat in the housing.
This would allow you to raise the coolant temperature while at
steady highway cruise to something like 220 with 50/50 coolant
(or 260 with Evans NPG coolant)
which might improve highway MPG by maybe 0.2-0.4
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