DodgeTalk Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

1993 powerwagon stalls? please help

856 views 19 replies 2 participants last post by  bud_light_good 
#1 ·
Hello,

I have a 1993 Powerwagon, 4x4, 318 motor,automatic tranmission,

we have had 4 inches of snow as of yesterday, I was driving in it, something happened,now when I put the truck in drive or reverse it stalls,"Dies" it idols fine, , not for sure if I have snow packed around a vacum line or just what, when I give it more gas and drop it in drive or reverse, it will go, but the truck wants to sputter a bit,I think there might be some type of accelrator, or vacume line, that speeds up the motor when I put it drive or reverse, not working.

any help or ideas of what to look for would be welcomed, and thanks before hand!

Proud of my powerwagon!

Terry N Missouri
 
#2 ·
my Idle air control seems to work just fine, fuel pump relay working also, the truck idles great but when i put it in drive or reverse it dies,"unless i have the gas pedel hafway to the floor" then the truck will run down the highway with a little studdder,,, but again when i come to a stop, it will die! checked for vacume leaks, and i could not find any!
come on experts! I need your advise!

Terry N missouri
 
#4 ·
32's,

thank you for the reply, im not a motor mechanic by no means, but can fix problems,,, sometimes, there are no engine lights on in the dash its self, and i have no programer to read the computer,

what is the tps, and how do I install a new one?...

I have made a date with the local garage for friday! so i have till then to fix it myself with your and the other experts help!

sincerly

Terry N Missouri
 
#5 ·
It's not a ford or GM. You dont need a scan tool to retrieve codes or short the diagnostic pins. All you need to do is turn the ignitionkey on and off three times, but DONT START the engine, just turn the ignition key on. Then on the third attempt leave it ON. Then the check engine or service engine soon light will start to blink or flash. A flash then pause then flash again twice is a code 12, understand? It will continue to cycle the codes until the key is turned off so dont swaet it if you dont get them the first time around. I hate 'shotgunning' parts to fix the problem. Diagnostics is much better and cheaper!LOL:D
 
#8 ·
The 5 flashes followed by 5 flashes is end of code. A code 35 on the other hand is the idle control switch is shorted, which could be your problem. When you take it to your mechanic tell him to check the IAC solenoid in the throttle body. Keep us posted and good luck Terry,,,,Eddie
 
#9 ·
Eddie,

so Are you thinking it is the Idle Air control, if so i can change that my self, i priced one this morning 76 bucks, but i was thinking it wasent due to the fact the truck idles fine, Is ther a book describing these blinks?

Thanks for all your help

Terry N Missouri
 
#11 · (Edited)
Terry, please dont go out buying parts that you think may fix the problem. I'm sorry you did just that. This forum is set up that we try to help you get the problem solved. It's VERY difficult to 'diagnose' problems over the phone, let alone on the 'Net'..I need much more info before a suggestion is acted upon. The diagnostic codes are a TOOL to help you pinpoint the problem it could be something as simple as a wire thats disconnected or the fact that the engine has a mechanical problem the computer cant diagnose. That's why I said to 'CHECK' the IAC.....:D Most sensors have 'parameters' that they operate from, these can be checked with a lab scope or multi-meter, I use a Snap-On AVR it's diagnostic tool, lab scope, meter, reference manual and has internet connection,(Can-Bus). Using a tool like this can help find the problem then test the component. I would suggest you find a person or shop that has this kind of equipment. "Shotgunning' repairs involves throwing a lot of parts and hoping that one of the new parts fixes the problem. Many times you spens countless thousands of dollars and the problem is still there. To diagnose a faulty component takes a 'flow chart' you start by the system that you think the problem is concentrated to like the electrical system, start at the battery, test it and move on to the next component in the electrical system which would be the wiring to the alternator, then the alternator itself then the starter motor ect,,this way you can eliminate the components that are OK,,, by the way is your truck a Power Ram? Mine is a 90 W-150 I thought that 92 was the last year?
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Terry do you have a multi-meter? A Digital, Volt-Ohm meter? If so I can show you how to test the 'next' component that may be the culprit but I have to say that please dont go out and buy one before testing it!! And that component would be the TPS, or throttle position sensor. It's variable potentiometer, it measures the resistance on a 5 volt circuit and sends the signal back to the computer in a analog voltage bewteen 1-5 volts. Read the flashes carefully, a pause then a long pause is sometimes hard to tell and let it cycle a few times to 'read' the way it flashes. Take a piece of paper and ink pen/pencil and write em down it helps..
 
#14 ·
The blink report for morning of december 18th 2008, day 2...

the blinks have not changed, 3 blinks then a pause then 5 blinks then a pause, then the final 5 blinks,

it is had to tell the pauses in between the blinks, so my 3,5,5, patter might be wrong, but there is diffently the 3 in the beginning,...and 10 total blinks after that!

Terry
 
#16 ·
The code could be a 55,,which means end of datastream,,,nothing really. There is no code 3 so I assumed it was a code 35 which is the idle circuit. I should also inform you that the diagnostic data stream retrievel using the procedure you are attempting will NOT retrieve ALL the fault codes. For this you need the DRB Chrysler or generic scan tool.
 
#17 · (Edited)
OK you have 5.2 magnum multi-point right? The TPS is right on the throttle body near the throttle control arm/linkage,,it's a 3 wire sensor with a 5 volt signal wire, a ground wire, and a reference wire that supplies 5 volts to the resistor contact point. As the throttle is depressed the resistance changes in the 'sweep' of the arm this cuase more current to flow,(per Ohms Law, as resistance decreases voltage increases), this sends the incresed voltage signal to the 'puter' which increases the pulse width of the injector,(s). So there will be no voltage to one wire which will be the ground, another will have a 5 volt reading, the other wire will have a voltage that should change/increase as the throttle is opened to the full position. It wont read 5 full volts something like 4.6 or so is max and the low end of the scale at idle should be around .6 volts or so. It should NOT read 0 volts at any time, or should it become 'erratic, the voltage 'sweep' should be smooth, a graphing display is especially useful here as is experience as to what you are looking for. An experienced tech can tell right away if the potentiometer is 'faulty' or has a 'lowspot' on the arm. This causes erratic idle but it does it ALL the time the engines temperature should have nothing to do with it. The cur/truck will still run it will have an erratic idle, sometimes a bad spot at a certain rpm all the time,, if it's intermittent,,I woudl look elsewhere for the problem,,,hope this helps and not confuses you.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top