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post #21 of 37 Old 02-14-2007, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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OKAY, I replaced the complete fuel pump assembly along with new lines and filler tube which were all rotting quite badly. Guess what, it fixed the high fuel pressure condition. My pressure is now holding steady at 50 psi instead of tho 100 psi plus that I was getting before. However, I still have the original problem. I've checked the plugs and none of them are fouled. The cap, rotor and wires aren't that old so I'm assuming they're okay. You can tell the engine is missing while it's sitting in the yard and you step on the gas it will run a little rough. It's worse when you're out on the road. It misses as you're accellerating, but it gets extremely bad once it shifts and the rpms drop. The whole truck will shake violently at that point. I'm thinking this may be the coil because I can't see a problem in a single cylinder causing the engine to miss that badly. Obviously a bad coil will affect all the cylinders.The only code I get is 1-2. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #22 of 37 Old 02-14-2007, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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One more thing

Do any of you know how I would go about checking to see if my coil is putting out the proper voltage? Thanks again.
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post #23 of 37 Old 02-15-2007, 10:31 AM
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Have you ever replaced the O2 sensors? The O2 sensors control the air fuel ratio and they will cause the symptoms you describe. Going down the highway one day, truck started running like sh!t, trying to stall, cutting out, it would only run under full throttle, would have sworn it to be a fuel problem. Two Bosch ($120) O2 sensors later and it ran great. So if you haven't changed them, might be a good next step. You could try the one before the cat first, but best to do both and be done with it.
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post #24 of 37 Old 02-16-2007, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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O2 sensors have been changed less than 20k ago. I pulled the plug wires one at a time and the only one that didn't make a difference in the way the engine was running was the last plug on the passenger's side(#8). Every wire had spark. I pulled the #8 plug and switched it out with the #2 plug with the same results. So now I'm thinking the injector for that cylinder is malfunctioning. Since the fuel pressure was so high before changing out the pump unit, I was thinking the excess fuel loosened dirt or rust and clogged the injector, or possibly the excess pressure damaged the nozzle. Sound plausable? Any thoughts guys?
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post #25 of 37 Old 02-17-2007, 08:57 AM
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Have you done the various TSB's? ( http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996-index.htm ) There was one for re-routing the spark plug wires (TSB 18-48-98) to prevent cross firing. Have you checked for the leaking plenum gasket (TSB 09-05-00)? If you haven't done these, they are a must before anything else.

What did your plugs look like when you pulled them, tan or brown on the ceramic? If not get a chart off the web and analyze them. How do the electrodes look? Sharp edges or rounded/burnt? Check distributor cap for cracks or moisture. Napa has a one with brass contacts, highly recommend it over the cheap ones out there. Assuming new/good wires.
You replaced O2's at less than 20K. I had a shop put in a Delco or something O2 sensor, it didn't last 10K. Replaced with Bosch, no problems since. What does your exhaust look/smell like? Any black smoke? Smell any gas?

If you think fuel injectors, I had mine rebuilt by Witchhunter, (www.witchhunter.com), excellent service, fast turnaround, and a bargain. They are in Bothell, WA. If you pull the injectors you might as well get them rebuilt as the o rings may leak if not replaced. You get new o rings when they are rebuilt.

This should keep you busy this weekend.
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post #26 of 37 Old 02-17-2007, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DTH
...I pulled the plug wires one at a time and the only one that didn't make a difference in the way the engine was running was the last plug on the passenger's side(#8). Every wire had spark. I pulled the #8 plug and switched it out with the #2 plug with the same results. So now I'm thinking the injector for that cylinder is malfunctioning...
I would pick up a new fuel injector and swap it in.
Later it would be good to have all the injectors cleaned and tested to ensure they are all flowing the same. But to get the truck running properly just get one new one.

Or, you can swap them around if you have enough time to take it apart again if the problem follows the fuel injector.

You've eliminated the spark, and if it was timing the other cylinders would miss also.


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post #27 of 37 Old 02-17-2007, 11:21 AM
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i have the exact same problem

only with a '96 RAM 2500 Van 5.2/318. i just did a tune-up. everything was great for about 3 days. right now, i have the exact same symptoms and performance. is there a way to test the fuel pump?
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post #28 of 37 Old 02-17-2007, 01:35 PM
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Dont throw parts at it and hope it fixes it, thats costly and you will eventually get pissed. first does the motor lope like its got a big cam or does it sputter like its not getting proper fire. If its got a lot of miles on it could be a worn out timing chain that is trowing timing off. check for vacuum leaks while your at it, i don't think thats what it is but its peace of mind to know you don't have one. test the coil on both the primary and secondary sides with an ohm meter. also make sure your wires are routed correctly one could be cross firing or shorting, or the coil could be shorting on the exhaust manifold. i had a cross firing problem rerouted the fires and it runs great now.
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post #29 of 37 Old 02-17-2007, 02:16 PM
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Dodge Ram 2500 '96 with 188,000 miles. it runs fairly smooth at idle, with an occasional pop out the exhaust. actually, there's a skip that comes and goes. new distributer. it's not lope-y. it's when you get on it it stumbles bad. no power. now that you mention it , it is the origional timing chain. and that's the first thing to go, mechanically.
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post #30 of 37 Old 02-18-2007, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Eureka

Well, guys I've found the culprit, it was the injector in the #8 cylinder. When I pulled it I couldn't believe it was completely plugged. There is about a half inch deep hole in the top of each injector and this one was solid crud right to the top. The other three on that side of the engine were a bit dirty, but not nearly as bad as that one. I cleaned them all and it now runs great agin. it's so good to have my truck back. i'm a carpenter and for the past couple of weeks I've been making due with a Kia Rio, lol. I'm assuming that the fuel pressure which was more than double what it should have been may have carried some extra crap through to the rail and helped pack it in. That injector just happens to be right under the hose which crosses over from the left side rail to the right.

Jackc396, I didn't check the pump itself. It was obvious the pump was working when I checked the fuel pressure and it was off the scale. My fuel pressure regulator itself was shot and since it is an integral part of the fuel pump assembly I had to change the whole thing. If your vehicle is acting the same as mine did, I'd suggest you check the fuel pressure as a starting point and also try pulling one plug wire at a time while the vehicle is idling to see if it makes a difference in the way it idles. If you pull a wire and it has no effect then your problem is in that cylinder. Maybe spark, maybe fuel. As I said, my problem was a clogged injector. Good luck!

Thanks again, guys, for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.
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post #31 of 37 Old 02-19-2007, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTH
Well, guys I've found the culprit, it was the injector in the #8 cylinder. When I pulled it I couldn't believe it was completely plugged. There is about a half inch deep hole in the top of each injector and this one was solid crud right to the top. The other three on that side of the engine were a bit dirty, but not nearly as bad as that one. I cleaned them all and it now runs great agin. it's so good to have my truck back. i'm a carpenter and for the past couple of weeks I've been making due with a Kia Rio, lol. I'm assuming that the fuel pressure which was more than double what it should have been may have carried some extra crap through to the rail and helped pack it in. That injector just happens to be right under the hose which crosses over from the left side rail to the right.

Jackc396, I didn't check the pump itself. It was obvious the pump was working when I checked the fuel pressure and it was off the scale. My fuel pressure regulator itself was shot and since it is an integral part of the fuel pump assembly I had to change the whole thing. If your vehicle is acting the same as mine did, I'd suggest you check the fuel pressure as a starting point and also try pulling one plug wire at a time while the vehicle is idling to see if it makes a difference in the way it idles. If you pull a wire and it has no effect then your problem is in that cylinder. Maybe spark, maybe fuel. As I said, my problem was a clogged injector. Good luck!

Thanks again, guys, for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.

You can also try pulling the fuel injector plug-ins one at a time as well.
Just be careful as the plastic gets brittle after a while.

Glad you got your truck running


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post #32 of 37 Old 02-19-2007, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, chizzle1.
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post #33 of 37 Old 02-20-2007, 09:31 AM
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DTH and people,
first,thanks everyone for all the great information!
does my Ram 2500 Van, '96, 5.2l, have a port to check fuel pressure? where is the fuel filter? i havn't found one in the engine compartment. thanks, jack
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post #34 of 37 Old 02-20-2007, 09:33 AM
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DTH and people,
first,thanks everyone for all the great information!
does my Ram 2500 Van, '96, 5.2l, have a port to check fuel pressure? i havn't found one in the engine compartment. thanks, jack
should have a schrader valve on the fuel rail.


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post #35 of 37 Old 02-20-2007, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not familiar with the 5.2, but most domestic vehicles I've had do have a valve on the fuel rail. On the 5.9 it is on the driver's side of the engine. You'll need an actual fuel pressure gauge to read the pressure though. It's a very simple procedure. You may be able to borrow the gauge at your local parts supplier, or you can probably buy one for somewhere in the vicinity of 50 bucks. Good luck.
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post #36 of 37 Old 02-20-2007, 10:00 PM
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ok. found the schrader. had the gauges and did a pressure test. with the key on it only measured 8 psi. with engine running it goes up to 45-47 psi which i think is acceptable. it seemed to run pissah so i went for a road test. no miss or pop. till i got to the front of the house, 25 min later, when it started to sound "muddy" and stalled twice while i was backing into the driveway. i'm doing a thermostat tomorrow because mine is probably stuck open. (no heat, and the engine never seems to get up to temp. the code it's throwing now says something like "engine temp too low"). other than that, it goes good when i get on it :^)...oh, i'm gonna keep the gauges around and see where the pressure is when i get close to Empty, to see if the fuel pump looses efficiency. right now i'm at a little over half tank. -J
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post #37 of 37 Old 02-21-2007, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anderc1
If you think fuel injectors, I had mine rebuilt by Witchhunter, (www.witchhunter.com), excellent service, fast turnaround, and a bargain. They are in Bothell, WA. If you pull the injectors you might as well get them rebuilt as the o rings may leak if not replaced. You get new o rings when they are rebuilt.
Just an FYI, We are a forum Sponsor and offer the same fuel injector service at http://www.kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean

We also offer a special price for Dodgetalk forum members. https://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140455
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