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post #1 of 6 Old 08-08-2019, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
ckm091377
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Electrical issue

Hello all-Thank you in advance for any assistance you will, hopefully, be able to offer. I have a 2005 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8 with 180k miles. I was driving to work today and the battery light came on. This was a bit irritating as a few months ago I replaced battery, alternator, belt, tensioner, and idler pulley after the last battery light and had hoped for a bit more of a break before it came on again. I thought at first that it was my A/C pump locking up as it has been making some noise but I was able to pretty quickly rule that out. I made it to work but when I came out to go home I hit the key and it turned over once and click click...... I popped the hood and found that one of my battery terminals was a little loose so I took care of that and got a guy to give me a jump. It started up immediately and I figured it was all good. I started to drive and it seemed to have very little power and whenever I came to a stop the engine started surging and sounded like it was going to die. I had to make a quick stop so I left it running and when I came back out to the van after just a minute or two it had died. I hit the key and again click click. Please feel free to ask any and all questions you may have that will help to get this solved. I'll keep my eyes on here and answer your questions as quickly as possible.
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-09-2019, 05:02 PM
Rinkadinc
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Check all connections ! Did you change batt cables ? Try a Screw between clamp and batt post,Thread it in ,NO,pounding which can break post loose from batt case or plates. If screw trick works ,it could be a hard layer of corrosion on post/clamp, a brush type cleaner doesnt work so well, have ta scrape it off.Make it shiny like a led lite.Scrape post from bottem to top or whatever works .(Acid in cuts can sting) The screw trick can also bandaid a loose clamp. Protect a cleaned connection w/ grease or spray on protector. I like the spray on, after its dry it dont end up everywhere. A Few explainations, An Open is a Hi path of resistance to ground or power. A Short is a LOW resistance path to ground. a Bridge or Crossfeed is between 2 circuits or components or like bypassing a switch. Sometimes a pigtail gets left and bridges a switch,Fuze or something else. A Short can cause an Open ! An open cant cause a short but can cause a backfeed!! A Backfeed can be very VEXing ! Again , check all connections, to Grounds, to battery.Some alternaters hook straight to battery and some go through a fuze or Fuzable link
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-10-2019, 10:01 PM
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Unfortunately it's not possible to listen to a description of a vague set of symptoms and come up with quick solutions. You need to do some diagnosis.
What is the system voltage with the engine running? (should be around 13.5-14) Voltage is regulated by the PCM.
What is the static battery voltage, charged? (should be around 12-12.5)
What is the condition of the battery terminals? Should be reasonably clean, and should fit tightly. The terminals on these vehicles tend to corrode through on the bottom ring where you can't see it, so you might think they're tight when they're really not. They also tend to form hard layers of corrosion on the inside where it's not really visible. When in doubt, replace.
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-11-2019, 01:09 PM
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Some more stuft. If electrical sys dont get enough power,it can run like s^7t ! So,, If line from Alt is open (Corrosion,loose connnections,Burnt wire or fuz link)battery cant charge properly or run stuff. Like lights sorta work,but it goes Click,Click,when trying to start ?

Like Guyonearth Mentioned _
Unfortunately it's not possible to listen to a description of a vague set of symptoms and come up with quick solutions. You need to do some diagnosis.
What is the system voltage with the engine running? (should be around 13.5-14)What is the static battery voltage, charged? (should be around 12-12.5)

If batt posts are corroded you will get a volage drop across terminals/posts. While scraping post/terms dont change the inteerferance diminsions,can cause clamp not to fit post. Is clamp is upside down ? This why Eletrical Gripes can be expeensive to find. A Fun Challenge, IF mechanic know his/her stuff,They can find problem fast. Some of the VOMs( Volt Ohm Meeter) can be had for 10 to 60$. Dont need to pay 3000.00 for a meter. Sometimes a test lite/Continuity tester works,or Wiggeling wires. A screwdriver or wire to bridge a bad connection ? Dont get burned/branded ! If power is unhooked Use a TDR ? Somtimes you replace the wrong stuuf ? If its just hard corrosion inside clamp? Maybe someone can suggest some U-Tubes to watch?
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-13-2019, 08:07 PM
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Electrical issues can be challenging,
Don’t forget that one of the items you just replaced could have failed.
The most likely time for an electrical component to fail is in its first few hours of use.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-17-2019, 11:23 AM
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With the belt making noise and the battery losing its charge and the alternator not being able to keep up, it sounds like the idler pulley is loose or something to that effect because to me and the vague descriptions available it seems as if the belt is not in full contact with the pulleys.


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