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post #1 of 8 Old 01-22-2013, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
Chip_Rat
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My Hard wire details

Pic 1
Here is the wire coding for the front and back lockers you will only need two wires per locker, all are Yellow/** with a colored stripe on them. Source is HOT, Return is Ground.

I used Quick connects (supplies pic) to splice in my wires, that way I did not have to cut them, and I could remove for warranty issues. (I do not have a warranty any more). If you are new to Quick Connects, there are different sizes, get the ones for your wire.
I used 12 ga. Wire and connect. One of the sides to the quick connect goes all the way thru, the other one goes half way. The one that goes all the way thru should be on your locker wire. I used the below switches for I had two in the tool box, you can use what you want, but I wanted a Light switch, to know I have them on. note: these switches will not tell you when you are engaged, only that power is going to the locker. But..you will know. when they are locked. Refrain from locking on dry concrete or asphalt, you lockers can take it but your tires may not.


Pic Last
Supplies:
Elect tape
Shrink wrap
Fuse conection
Switches ( you wish)
Splicers, connectors
Wire Black, and Red


Pic 2
Your Rear locker wires are right below the floor board on the driver side. I just opened up the wire cluster and pulled out the two I needed.

Pic 3
Your Front locker wires can be found just under your Brake Master cylinder.

I ran a Power wire from my Battery (I would suggest that you run it from a Key On Fuse in your Fuse box.) Just in case you leave the locker switch on…

I ran the power wire to the switches (install the 30 amp fuse between the switches and the Power source (in an easy place to get to incase it blows). My switch had three connections
Power - +
ACC - Locker wire
Ground – to make the light work


Splice into your Front and rear locker wires and run the Red (Power) and Black (grd) up into your cab with plenty of room (extra wire).
Depending on where you want to mount your switch, you will need to remove some dash components. There is a Youtube on dash removal on 2006 dodge trucks, it is a good video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQVwArVWcHE

I drilled two holes to mount my switches. I ran both Black wires from the lockers to a ground bolt just under my transfer case shifter. I ran the Power wire (Red) to the inline fuse and the split it so I could hook it to both switches. Then I ran a Ground wire from each switch (for lights) to a another ground Bolt in the same area.

If you have issues, just PM Me and we can talk in more detail. I am no elect pro, but took my time and figured it out.

I am still working on the Original switch, I am sure that it goes straight to the Dumb Bar, so I will have to do some more investigating. The Switch is easy to get to once to take the dash apart. I have some pics I will share later.
Attached Images
File Type: png Locker A.png (73.9 KB, 66 views)
File Type: png Locker B.png (132.4 KB, 307 views)
File Type: png locker C.png (733.8 KB, 46 views)
File Type: png locker D.png (803.8 KB, 43 views)
File Type: png locker E.png (791.9 KB, 43 views)

06 PW Rock Rails
Line-X, Locker ByPass, 35' BFG KM2's

More Toys than you can shake a stick at..
1980 CJ7 Black, Rino lined, AMC 360, 33x12x15 ProComp
Brute 650 Stock and bad
1973 CJ5 Beat to #$%^, but fun



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post #2 of 8 Old 01-22-2013, 11:10 AM
GunniPWguy
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Excellent write up! Thank you

2005 BLACK POWER WAGON


Power Wagon Owners Club #155
Currently Sporting: 35 x 12.5 x 17 Cooper Discoverer STT's DT Profab Steering Brace, Gibson superflow catback single exhaust system, Locker Bypass, Moog ball joints (see how long they last), T-steering upgrade w/ Bilstein 5100 steering damper, Power everything, Heated leather seats, (keeps the better half happy
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) 6-CD changer, Infinity premium audio, Rear window defrost, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Customized H2 alloy wheels, Original rock rails with family friendly steps welded on, Hi-lift extreme jack, Tool box along with all the essential PW gear. New winch cable, Winch TPS bypass, Cardan joint grease zerk discovery.
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The list is morphing.

Beer is just water that has reached its full potential!
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-22-2013, 12:51 PM
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I'm still waiting to see if somebody can crack the factory switch. Once that's figured out then I'm going to take a serious look at this mod.


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Truxedo Deuce Bed Cover with Bed Lights, Black Line-X Rocker Panel, Custom Built Rock Rails Sprayed with Line-X, Front & Rear Bumper and Grill sprayed with Line-X, Husky Mud Flaps, Husky Floor Mats, Four VisionX Xmitter Low Pro Prime XP LED Light Bars Behind the Grill, LED Lights Mounted in the Rear Bumper, Heated Seats, Interior LED Lighting, NAV-TV, Camera Mounted in Front Grill, Custom Headache Rack, AEV Raised Air Intake, 285/75/17 Toyo A/T II Tires

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post #4 of 8 Old 01-22-2013, 01:09 PM
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Excellent....Thanks...
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-23-2013, 06:45 AM
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Hmmm....


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2006 Power Wagon QC w/ 35" BFG KM2's, Rhino Lined Bed, B&W turnover hitch, nerfs, TSC toolbox & ventvisors...
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-23-2013, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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I agree that I want the Factory switch to work, and that is my next project, but I had to have lockers for this activity. And due to my travel lately (Singapore, Malaysia) it has been difficult to work on the main switch. It will be a challenge due to the Dumb Bar.

The Smart bar is a Great idea and mine works great, but the circuit board inside of it close to the ground and out in the eliments seems to be the main issue.

06 PW Rock Rails
Line-X, Locker ByPass, 35' BFG KM2's

More Toys than you can shake a stick at..
1980 CJ7 Black, Rino lined, AMC 360, 33x12x15 ProComp
Brute 650 Stock and bad
1973 CJ5 Beat to #$%^, but fun



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post #7 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 10:50 PM
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Go ahead! Crack the factory switch, that's it in my avatar lol
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-26-2013, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GunniPWguy View Post
Excellent write up! Thank you
Quote:
Originally Posted by w2dodge View Post
Excellent....Thanks...

PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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Survivor of The Cold War,
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"Moab '10, '12, '14",
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