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AC Mod with Pics

11K views 143 replies 47 participants last post by  RubberFrog 
#1 ·
I had this done on my 04 and never got around to it on my 07.

Here are a few pics and tips for anyone looking to do it. Use the top hose so it's easier to reach the valve when you need to change it. The hoses are 5/8". Don't try to use 3/4" barbs as they're too big and they'll leak. Also, watch the tails of your clamps so they're not rubbing the bottom hose or the valve cover. Use a 5/8" or 3/4" valve, any smaller and you'll restrict flow thru your heater core when you want to use it (less heat in the winter!). After clamping the hose, cut out a section of hose slightly shorter than the body of the valve (not including barbs). If you don't, the hose will be too long and the valve will hang to the side all funky.

number 5
 

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#96 ·
#97 ·
The hoses are in the same place as the pictures posted.
 
#99 ·
For anyone concerned anout the effect on the cooling system after doing this, I can say there is none. I helped my brother move his stuff back up from Ft Hood to Denver this weekend, and even with the temps in the highs 90s and the humidity in the same area. My gauge never moved past the half way mark , even with a 800 or so pounds in my camper shell and towing a uhaul car trailer with a 89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer on it which total was around 7000 pounds i was pulling. I was amazed at how good it felt with my fan only being on 2 and the inside of my Mega was nice and cold. This is a great cheap mod.
Here is a pic of the setup I was pulling and no problems at all with overheating.
 

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#100 ·
That's the same experience I had while towing.
 
#102 ·
I keep wanting to do this to my '04 Quad Cab, but the dang heat has kept me from doing it so far. :)

(Currently 94.4F according weatherundeground.com)
 
#103 ·
I did this to my megacab a couple of years ago. In fact there was a thread about this back then due to so many of us mega cabbers having horrible A/C issues. I can't remember the title of the thread but it was in this section. I like the valve rubber frog used. I have to get a screw driver to turn my valve so I think I'll change it out to the "Rubber Frog" style. :thatfunny. Anyways, living in 110 or more heat every summer, this mod was noticeable to me. A/C gets very cold now. The only problem I feel with the mega cabs is that the blower motor is too weak for this size of cab. It takes awhile to cool of my cab. But again, this is a worth while and cheap mod. I've had this now for 2 yrs. and not a single issue with my cooling system.
 
#105 ·
You might not be able to tell in the summer, but it's pretty obvious that you need it when it's 70* outside and the vents are blowing hot air.
 
#108 ·
I wonder if this would work for the anemic a/c in my wifes '02 Durango? We have had the a/c looked at multiple times and it just won't cool very quickly. I understand there is lots of air to cool, but we never had this issue with her S10 Blazer.
 
#109 ·
I told the wife about this. She wants her 06 Durango done too! I think she would benefit her more than me! I may 'mess up' both our trucks this weekend.
 
#110 ·
Good call. If you go to home depot you have to buy the valve and the barbs, supposedly lowes has a valve with 5/8 barbs already attached.
 
#113 ·
If you must you can get the threaded valve and one isle over has the threaded barbs.
 
#114 ·
did this same mod to my 1980 Triumph TR7. the little hot/cold thermostat valve for the heat leaked and replacements are not avilable anymore, so instead of just bypassing it and having hot air leak out (old car, doesnt seal very well) I just put in a 5/8" ball valve. this one is under the dash so on a cold night i just reach down and open the valve. being a convertible its not a big deal. but there are other valves out there and other ways. i will be doing the ball valve to my ram soon but i like the cable method, here is a valve from a volvo that can be set up with a cable or similar.

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,10844,10917
 
#115 ·
Just finished doing my truck today. The 02 4.7 has a two separate hoses already. Since its almost always 90 degrees here in Miami I just bypassed the heater core altogether. Unplugged one side and and just looped them instead of the valve. Noticeable difference and so far no leaks from the hose. Engine temp still seems normal so I guess all is well. Normally have it on 3 or 4 was able to put the a/c on 2 and once cooled even 1. Passenger side is a lot cooler but not as cold as the drivers side. Thanks for all the great ideas on this site. Good Luck!
 
#116 ·
I could not find the silver/red valve at Home Depot either. I also tried Lowe's to no avail. however, I also stopped by AutoZone and asked them if they stocked any heater controls. They do, and I explained what I wanted to do, and the technician punched in a couple different makes/models to see what came up. I bought a Four Seasons 74777, it actually goes in a Jeep, but has 5/8" fittings. However, there are 4, since it bypasses the coolant back to the water pump through the other hose. One fitting is at an angle, but I think it will work. Here's the link: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=519572_0_0_ (hope that works). I also looked at valves 74649, 74628, and 74809 online. 74809 is like 74777, but no angled fitting. I am checking in the morning to see if they have it, and see what size the fittings are. 74809 and 777 are vacuum actuated, but I figure I can wire it open or leave it shut, depending upon the season... About $20 each for those 2.
 
#117 ·
Does anyone know if this can be done to a CTD? The hose seems to go into the block so not sure if blocking this hose will cause some cyclinders to not get coolant.. etc..
 
#118 ·
I could have sworn that when I first read about this - it was on a CTD. I could be wrong though........
 
#119 ·
JJ is correct, this did start with the ctd.
 
#120 ·
I put the same one from Lowes on my truck and like others i keep a meat thermometer in my D/S dash vent and quickly noticed a difference. Good job on this one guys.
 
#121 ·
Alright, mod complete! I ended up using the Four Seasons 74809. I cut both heater hoses and clamped it in. I also tie-wrapped the vacuum controller so it would divert the hot coolent immediately back to the pump.
Frog, thanks for the earlier pix with the C-clamps! If not for that, I probably would have taken a coolant bath. I did wrap my a/c line with a rag just to make sure I didn't accidently cut it open (that would be expensive!).
I attached a couple pix for everyone who has questions. I bought 4 hose clamps that maxed at 13/16", I think. They were a little snug to initially slide on, but fit just fine.

Was it worth it? OH YEAH! I can tell the temp difference already. This is going to be well-worth the effort when i move to Texas...

Mods, should this be crafted into a How To?
 

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#124 ·
I'm not really sure what it is you are trying to share with us.
 
#123 ·
I just did the mod a few days ago. My recirculated air temp dropped from 40 degrees to around 32. Next up is my wife's Durango. My only concern is there is some type of electric valve located in the upper heater hose. I'm leaning toward placing the valve in between the valve and the firewall instead of between the valve and the waterpump.
 
#126 ·
I got all the way to the end of the thread and got confused. Are there one or two hoses to clamp and put in the valve? Post #121 from ECONORAM looks like two hoses are being clamped.

Do you need to put the truck up on jacks for this to gain access to the hoses? It looks like you get to these hoses via the wheel well on the front passenger side?

-Mike
 
#127 ·
only one, if you're going with the shut off valve. you do not need to put it up on jacks. pull the air cleaner and it's right there. on the right side.
 
#128 ·
Just remove your air filter and lift the airbox out. You will then have plenty of room to do install the valve in the upper hose. My upper hose actually had a factory splice in it. I removed the splice and positioned the valve....5 minutes max.
 
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