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Old 09-12-2010, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Add zerks to your 2500/3500 wheel bearings

I've had some problems with my wheel bearings drying up lately and I really didn't want to spend the 500 or so on a set of Timken hubs. After talking with Aaron, I figured I would repack them like he did but I don't really have of the tools necessary to do it if anything is seized (I'm about 100% sure the hub has "welded" itself to the spindle because of the truck originally growing up in the East and all the water I play in).

Location of the zerk is up to you but I put it on the back side to keep it free of water and dust. This also meant I didn't have to cut apart the brake shield, relocate the ABS sensor AND its all shielded by the caliper.

Tools needed:
- 3/16th and 7/32's drill bit. (Be sure to magnetize these!!!!!)
- 1/4 28 tap (fine thread)
- Magnet
- A long and skinny piece of metal (I used a punch but a paperclip would work too) and magnetize this.
- 15/16th's socket for lug nuts
- 18mm socket to remove brake assembly
- 5/16th's socket to tighten the zerk.
- Grease gun

1) Take off your tire

2) Take off the entire brake assembly of the spindle and hang it.

3) Remove the rotor. Had to use a BFH to do this as a crow and 24 oz. framer wasn't cutting it. Couple whacks and it was off.

4) Locate where you want to drill

5) Drill with the 3/16th's bit for approx. 1/2". Don't go all the way through yet. Take your 7/32's bit and drill in about 5/16" an inch. Clean out all of the metal shavings with punch and/or magnet. Go back to the 3/16th's and slowly go break through the bearing assembly. Clean the channel out of all metal shavings and be sure none drop inside of the bearing assembly.

6) Tap the hole with the 1/4 28 tap. The tap requires a 7/32's hole (the reasoning for the counter sink in the previous step).

7) Insert your zerk. I used a 1/4 long shaft zerk.

8) Grease the bitch up! I'm not even going to give a recommendation on how many pumps to do as it will all depend on how dry your bearings are. When looking through the hole, mine looked bone dry so I was pretty generous with the grease but made sure not to over pack so to break through the outer seals. You can pull out the ABS plug and that will give any "excess" grease an escape instead of busting through one of the out seals. After every few pumps, spin the hub a little to distribute the grease evenly to get the max amount in.

My hubs were starting to grind and after doing all of this, they aren't grinding anymore and they feel much better.

1973 RCLB Stroker SB
- Longtravel suspension still being built, Grabber 35" MT's, Method Wheels, 4.10's.
- Custom dash/gauge cluster, Corbeau seats, dual electric fans, most of the wiring replaced, 7" HID's, lots of other flashy and bright lights
- Fuel cell, aluminum rad, rear tranny cooler, front and rear tube bumpers, cut rear rockers and cage work ready to get started on.

Last edited by angusdevil; 09-13-2010 at 03:43 AM.
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