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post #57 of Old 08-20-2009, 11:43 PM
Ducky's Dad
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Aux Battery Installation Under Cab

I just changed out my auxiliary battery, mounted under the cab on the passenger side. Switched from an Optima Red to an Odyssey 1500DT (branded for Sears). The Optima was actually a slightly better fit, but the Odyssey is a better battery, so... The basic box came from Summit Racing, then I welded a piece of 3x3 angle iron under the bottom edge to support the weight of the battery; welded another piece of 3x3 angle to the top of the box to carry the weight on the top of the frame rail (so that the mounting bolts are not in shear); welded gussets to stiffen the whole thing in case it catches a rock or tree stump; welded a piece of small angle to the bottom outside edge and a couple of returns to protect the bottom corners of the battery. It bolts to the frame rail with four 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the frame with backing plates to distribute the load (no crush sleeves in the frame). In the pics you will see a small piece of steel welded to the inside face of the angle iron; this is to accommodate the irregularity in the face of the frame rail. Because of the variation in the shape of the rail, I also used four 3/4" grade 8 washers (needed 3/4" I.D. to get the right thickness) between the box and the frame; this allows the box to mount absolutely flat against to fat part of the frame and not distort when you tighten it down. Positive cable is 1/0 welding cable inside a kevlar sleeve (mil surp) routed to the engine compartment through existing holes in the frame rails. Negative is grounded to the frame using an existing threaded hole for the skid plate mounts. Whole assembly mounts right between the skid plate hangers, and gets lifted into place with a floor jack after the battery is mounted into the box. That part is a bitch, so if you do this, use use a good battery because you don't want to change it very often. The whole assembly is above the bottom of the frame rails and about three inches higher than the skid plates, so you'd have to be in some really goofy terrain to damage the battery. Wiring goes throught a Painless Performance 250 amp waterproof isolator/solenoid mounted on the left/front core support, with the toggle switch and indicator lights on the lower left side of the dash (under the headlight switch). The fit is tight, and this box will not accommodate an Odyssey 1700/1750, but if I were doing this again I would try to use or build a box that would take a 1700/1750. If I'm doing this correctly, pics should be below. The last pic is the Toyo Tires booth at SEMA a few years ago; I just like that pic.
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File Type: jpg Vivitar Dump 081909 012.jpg (266.2 KB, 22 views)
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2005 White Power Wagon, Quad Cab, Auto; Toyo Open Country M/T 35-12.50x17 w/ no rubbing; Four Hella Rally 4000's on Defiant Truck Products light bar; 100W halogen headlights; 100W halogen fog lights; 6x55W Hella halogen backup lights on custom mounts; custom switch panel for all lights; Roundeyes LED winching, underhood, and bed lights; Daystar custom winch hook isolator; auxiliary electric cooling fan; Odyssey 2150 battery with Odyssey 1500DT dual battery w/ Painless Performance isolator; Wet Okole seat covers; Catch All mats; TuffSkin spray-in bed liner; Snug Top cab high shell; Yakima rack system with Conn-Ferr basket; Hi-Lift Extreme 60" jack w/ accessories; X-Jack; Banks Monster Exhaust; ViAir 400P compressor; DeeZee crossbed tool box w/ lots of tools, gear, and 100' additional synthetic winch cable; custom 5-foot locking gun drawer by Ainley Kennels; hitch step; Hopkins tailgate assist; Camtainer hardmount water supply; N-Fab nerf steps being converted to rock rails.

Still Needs: CAI, tuner, locker bypass and its own gas station.
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