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Quick brake job.

6K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  JustBob 
#1 ·
Installed my rear EBC brakes today. Took about 2 hours to do both sides. That's includes stopping to talk to my brother in-law and neighbor.

Remove tire, then the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove caliper. It's best to use a screw drive the wedge in one of the slots of the rotor to push the pads back some. makes it easier to remove the caliper. Once the caliper is off. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. Leave the pads in the bracket when you remove it. You'll see later.
 

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#2 ·
Time to unload the old pads and reload the new pads. :D Set the caliper bracket down on something hard. bolts holes facing up. Now tap down on the old pads. They may not come to easy. You may have to tap them all the way out. Now install the new pads. When you put the new pads in. Set them far apart as possible, and still in the grooves. Makes it easier to install the bracket later. :D
 

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#4 ·
If your rotors have never been off before. You will have 2 or 3 rotor clips on the wheel studs. They put these on when the axle it is assembled, so that the rotors stay in place and don't fall off and kill somebody. You have to remove these, and throw them away. I use a screwdrive to lift one corner up, and then a pair of wire cutters to cut them off.

If your rotors have never been off like mine. Spray some nut buster on the stud holes and around the hub center. Get a BFH and go to it. Beating on the back side of the rotor. As your are have fun, rotate the rotor and keep flogging it. Once it starts to move and only goes so far. The E-brake shoes may be adjusted too tight. Now you have to loosen up that adjustment. It's located under the truck by the driver side door handle. Spray your nut buster on it too. I used a adjustment wrench to hold the bracket in place, and a 13mm to turn the nut. It may not be easy to turn because of the rust on it.

Once you get the rotor off. Wire brush the hub to remove any rust and dirt on it. you don't want to install the rotor back on that with anything that will cause run-out. You can see in the bottom picture how much rust and dirt is laying on the ground.
 

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#5 ·
Install the rotor with the arrow pointing towards the front, direction of travel. Install the caliper bracket with the pads in it. Once you do that, push the pads in towards the rotor until they touch it. Now install the caliper, and tire. At this point with everything installed on one side. Do NOT start the truck. Slowly push the brake pedal down about half way. Repeat this a couple of times to push the caliper pistons back out.

If you push the pedal all the way down, "depending how many miles you have on it". You "could" wipe out your master cylinder. This is true for vehicles that are HIGH mileage. What happens is that with use. The bore in the master cylinder wears. It's used to only traveling so far. Now when the pedal gets pushed to the floor. The o-rings now have to go over the wear lip in the bore. Sometimes this will tear the o-rings. I've seen this happen.

Now with the one side button back up. Do the other side. :D When you get that side done. Now you have to readjust your E-brakes as the last thing to do. Tighten back up on the adjuster You may have to do this a couple of times to get the feel you want on the E-brake pedal. Adjust the nut, and try the E-brake pedal. Repeat until it feels right. BUT don't get it too tight. I spin my tires by hand when I'm adjusting it. I listen for sound and feel.

When I get my pads in for the front. I'll post that too. :D
 

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#7 ·
Good write up. Thanks. Waiting to hear reviews now;).
 
#9 ·
One thing I forgot to mention. :ugh Before you install the caliper back on. Use 2, 4" C clamps to push the pistons back in the caliper. Why 2? If you just use 1. You will push the other piston out of the caliper. Now you got yourself a mess. :ugh
 
#10 ·
Nice! You'll really like them.

Not to bust your stones, but I had my dealer tech friend install mine on the side while he replaced the rear calipers (they were sticking). All four took him about an hour with the caliper, and bled all four, too. $100. :D I guess doing this stuff day in, day out, helps.

Anyway, how does it feel? Much better stopping power?
 
#11 ·
Got a day off to finish the front brakes. And I got another set of front pads. UPS lost 2 pads out of the box the first time around, so I had to wait for the replacements. :mad:

1st and 2nd pics. I find it easier to work on the front brakes with the wheels turned some. It's easier to get to the bolts.
3rd pic. I use a screw driver to pry the pads back some. This makes it easier to remove the caliper.
4th pic. I alway put the calipers on something like a jack stand. I don't let the calipers hang by the hose.
 

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#12 ·
1st pic. Whithe caliper off. Now remove the caliper bracket with the old pads still in place.
2nd pic. Now remove old pads and install new pads into the caliper bracket. Put the new pads at the edge of the bracket when you install them, Also remove your old rotor and install your new rotor.
3rd pic. Install your caliper bracket. And push your pads against the rotor now.
 

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#13 ·
I usually use one of the old brake pads to push both pistons in with one c-clamp. Also could you let us know how those new ones are performing compared to the old ones. I have been thinking about replacing mine with those.

Thanks and nice write up :tup:
 
#15 ·
I like to use 2 C-clamps. It's easier to tell which piston is sticking, if one of them is sticking. :D Most of the time if a piston is sticking. It's the bottom one. Low point in the system. That's where the water collects at.
 
#14 ·
1st and 2nd pic. I use 2, 4" C clamps to push the pistons back in the caliper. Push one piston in, then the other. Shouldn't take to much pressure to push them in. If you feel you need to use alot of force to push them in. Chances are the piston is sticking. If it is sticking. You either need to rebuild the caliper or replace it. Some feel the it's just easiesr to replace the caliper as to rebuild it. Also if it is sticking. NOW is the time to do something about it. NOT later. You WILL kill your pads and rotor because of it the caliper dragging.
3rd pic. All button up. :D When install the caliper. Should you push the 2 bolt slides back out of the way for the caliper to fit back on the bracket. If you are having a hard time trying to start the 2 caliper bolts back in the bracket. You have to move the rotor alittle to get eveything lined up, as the weight of the rotor will cause it not to sit straight on the hub. Use 2 open ended lug nuts on the wheel studs to keep the rotor straight on the hub.

With nobody to bother me today. :D It only took about 15 minutes per side. The hardest part was jacking up the PW, and putting jack stands under it. :D
 

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#17 ·
With my wife's passing. The PW is no longer my DD. Been using the Jeep GC for that. But I got to break in the brakes before I go to Rausch Creek tho. So I'm going to be putting on some mileage in the next few days. :D So then I'll get a better idea of what's what.
 
#18 ·
You'll definitely like the brakes. I guarantee it! Day and night difference.

I'm curious about those hubs, too.
 
#19 ·
Rusty you have done so many mods yourself to your truck I think it's time you opened up RUSTY'S POWER WAGON OFF ROAD SHOP. You would get my business.:D
 
#20 ·
^^X2 :D

Great work Russ.
 
#23 ·
Up-date on the brakes. :D This is what the PW should have come with. :D Just about put a "person of interest" :D head in the windshield coming home. :ugh Was avoiding a deer. Already one 1 this summer. :ugh
 
#25 ·
From what I understand talking to some engineers, one was an SRT engineer (back when I had my Ram SRT10), and a dealer tech I know, you really don't want to paint the calipers. The paint affects cooling. I realize some high end calipers such as Brembo and Stoptech are painted, and I'm not exactly sure what type of paint they use (it has to handle the high heat), which is fine and assume they took that into consideration.
 
#26 ·
Great write-up! Now that some time has passed, how are the pads and discs wearing?
 
#27 ·
One trip to Moab, and two trips to Rausch Creek pulling a camper. Everything is good. Both pads and rotors are wearing nicely. The pads have a good bit to them when cold. Once warm up. They bit even harder. Overall. I've been pleased with them. I even put a set on my old Jeep GC. On my Nismo. I'm running the same pads, but with a Racing Brake 2 piece rotor ($$$$). You want to talk about stopping power!!!!
 

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