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tgarrity
 
  How do you replace an Oxygen Sensor - Posted: 04-17-2006, 04:29 PM
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Post #1

This is probably the worst question ever, but I haven't done this before.
Im replacing both sensors, I guess my question is, how do you take them off?
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sherdep
 
 Posted: 04-17-2006, 04:33 PM
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Post #2

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgarrity
This is probably the worst question ever, but I haven't done this before.
Im replacing both sensors, I guess my question is, how do you take them off?
you un hook the connectors and you have a special socket that has a section cut out so you can keep the wire from being cut and you unscrew or un bolt the sensors from the pipe ... some times they are hard as hell to get out so if you know you are replacing them if you screw the wires up coming out no big deal but going in is another story. You can rent or buy the tool at Autozone or Discount auto. Attached is what an O2 socket looks like
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File Type: jpg o2_socket_1.jpg (5.5 KB, 333 views)
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LoudRam
 
 Posted: 04-17-2006, 07:18 PM
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Post #3

I replaced mine so I just cut the wires and used a deep socket, but it was a MAJOR PAIN getting it out. I started the truck to get the pipe hot, used wd-40, breaker bar with extention, hammer on the breaker bar (not necessarily in that order). After all that it finally gave. Putting the new one in was easy, just used an open end wrench.
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LowestForm
 
 Posted: 04-18-2006, 06:38 AM
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Post #4

I just did mine, used a 22mm wrench on it. The hardest part was undoing/redoing the plug on top of the damn tranny. The O2 sensor came out really easy.
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tgarrity
 
  Doesn't Make Sense - Posted: 04-19-2006, 07:53 AM
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Post #5

Thanks for the help with Oxygen Sensor. I got the special tool and it came off easily. However, the Bosch Oxygen Sensors that I got from the Auto store don't fit. The female end is round and the male end is square?! Did yall have to go to Dodge to get the right oxygen sensor? I've tried 4 other autoparts store, and they all have the same oxygen sensor
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LoudRam
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 09:30 AM
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Post #6

I bought mine at Auto Zone.
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tgarrity
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 09:38 AM
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Post #7

I did as well, but the Oxygen Sensors they had in the computer at AutoZone were Bosch make.
The adapter end that you plug the Oxygen Sensor into is square, the Bosch was round, it wouldnt fit. I'm going to have to ge them from Dodge
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Silver_DodgeRam
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 09:41 AM
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Post #8

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirenutt1969
.....I started the truck to get the pipe hot....
Wouldn't that actually cause the metal to expand and tighten around the threads, making it more difficult to remove?
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LoudRam
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 09:52 AM
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Post #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver_DodgeRam
Wouldn't that actually cause the metal to expand and tighten around the threads, making it more difficult to remove?
I was thinking the pipe threads would heat up and expand a little. I believe metal contracts as it cools. I could be wrong, but it wouldn't come out when the pipe was cool either.
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mbret2004
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 11:19 AM
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Post #10

You are correct to heat the pipe, metal expands when heated. It contracts when cooled. Another hint would be to wrap as close to the base of the sensor will a ball peen hammer to break the rust bond. Upon installation anti-seize will save you another headache later on.
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tgarrity
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 01:41 PM
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Post #11

Sorry, I think I miss-led some of you.
Im not talking about the threading where the Oxygen Sensor screws into the pipe. I'm talking about the Wiring Harness. The plastic part where the wires come off the oxygen sensor and plug into the wires that go to the computer.

The Bosch Oxygen sensors that I got from Autozone the plastc adapter was round. The wire that on the truck from the comptuer is square.

They wires dont fit together

I did notice that when I took my old oxygen sensors off, they were black
Thats not a good thing is it?
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Silver_DodgeRam
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 02:05 PM
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Post #12

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbret2004
You are correct to heat the pipe, metal expands when heated. It contracts when cooled. Another hint would be to wrap as close to the base of the sensor will a ball peen hammer to break the rust bond. Upon installation anti-seize will save you another headache later on.
Yes, exaxtly, metal expands when heated. That would cause the threads to expand as well making the space between each thread smaller and tighter, thus making whatever it is you are trying to unscrew tighter. Why would you want to do that? In my opinion, you would not want the threads to be expanded, you would want them to be as contracted as possible so the threads and thread gap is a loose as possible (so it has room to move when you try to turn it).
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tgarrity
 
 Posted: 04-19-2006, 04:33 PM
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Post #13

its' going to cost me $200 for both sensors from dodge
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CBP ENGINEER
 
 Posted: 04-20-2006, 08:49 AM
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Post #14

Summitracing has NGK sensors for under $50. Shipping will set you back another $10, but if you combine other small purchases, I think shipping will stay the same. I couldn't tell from their website if the sensor was universal for either the front or the back. You need to cross-reference their part numbers. Here are the numbers they have listed: NGK-23099 and NGK-23151.
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mbret2004
 
 Posted: 04-20-2006, 11:19 AM
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Post #15

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver_DodgeRam
Yes, exaxtly, metal expands when heated. That would cause the threads to expand as well making the space between each thread smaller and tighter, thus making whatever it is you are trying to unscrew tighter. Why would you want to do that? In my opinion, you would not want the threads to be expanded, you would want them to be as contracted as possible so the threads and thread gap is a loose as possible (so it has room to move when you try to turn it).
You are correct to a point. Without getting into a full blown thermodynamics lesson, here is the short story. Dissimilar metals generally expand when heated, cool when contracted. Now, when the same type of metals are joined (bolted, screwed together) they will heat and cool at the same rate as you stated. Here is how to get around it. To loosen metals in this case you need to keep one cooler than the other for the expansion to take place. On the 02 sensor, (since its bad and damaging it won't matter) heat it while the exhaust is cold. Hopefully it breaks loose before the heat transfers to the pipe, I'm pretty sure this will work. I have done it alot with success.
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bazookaman
 
 Posted: 04-23-2006, 10:48 AM
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Post #16

tgarrity, I didn't see what year your dodge was, but it sounds like mine. I had the same prob with my O2 sensors. i bought 2001 O2 sensors for my 2001 Ram. However, the plugs were round on the harness and square on my truck. The solution? I had to buy 2002 O2 sensors...which have the square plug. Got the at Advance. At about double the cost of the 01s. Nice.
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cowboy1
 
 Posted: 11-09-2006, 06:50 PM
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Post #17

hi all, have you replaced your Oxygen Sensor,s because the check engine light came on,and does it effect fuel use,,cheers Mitch
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jeepme79
 
 Posted: 11-10-2006, 01:00 PM
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Post #18

From what I understand, it's not the heating as much as the cooling that makes breaks it loose. Once you heat the metal, as state earlier, the space between the threads gets smaller and tighter. When it cools is when the space opens up and hopefully breaks the bond.

However, in this case, just running the engine may not be enough, since the metal has already been heated/cooled from the same temp. A torch would have been better so you could get it much hotter.
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abossram
 
 Posted: 11-11-2006, 12:20 AM
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Post #19

Back to the 02 square plug versus round plug--as has been posted before-Chrysler saved some money by using what they had in stock and crossed over model years without telling anyone. So, I take the 02 sensor out of the vehicle to the napa or whatever parts store and show it to the counter person. They look up the year, model, engine and pull the WRONG sensor off the shelf. I then suggest that they look for the year prior truck and about 70% of the time, BINGO. Our local NAPA has complained to their headquarters and nothing happens of course. But I have, right or wrong, cut the wires and used the old connector without CELs or performance probs and my scanner sez all is well. So, try asking for a year or maybe two older 02 sensor and see if the connectors match that way. Good luck.
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MattV10Ram2500
 
 Posted: 11-13-2006, 06:41 AM
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Post #20

Quote:
Originally Posted by abossram
Back to the 02 square plug versus round plug--as has been posted before-Chrysler saved some money by using what they had in stock and crossed over model years without telling anyone. So, I take the 02 sensor out of the vehicle to the napa or whatever parts store and show it to the counter person. They look up the year, model, engine and pull the WRONG sensor off the shelf. I then suggest that they look for the year prior truck and about 70% of the time, BINGO. Our local NAPA has complained to their headquarters and nothing happens of course. But I have, right or wrong, cut the wires and used the old connector without CELs or performance probs and my scanner sez all is well. So, try asking for a year or maybe two older 02 sensor and see if the connectors match that way. Good luck.
I also agree on this point. I had a trailer brake controller installed and they said I had the '94 wiring harness because the '95 had a stock connection for this type of thing and it wasn't there. A couple of other things like this have also shown up.
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