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Dodge_convert
 
  1983 d150 wont start - Posted: 03-20-2006, 11:01 PM
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Post #1

I have 1983 ram D150 one day while at the store it started just fine and when I went to back it out it staled on me and would not start again. I coasted it down the hill and tried to jump start but nothing. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, Checked the Ignition coil (checked out just fine) Check the Voltage regulator (also fine). The battery is good i still have lights and the truck turns over but it just wont start. 1 more thing the guy at the parts store said to check the ignition control module and told me where to look its supposed to be on the drivers side wheel wall as pictured in the Haynes manual and it is nowhere to be found in my truck.. I am stumped at this point.. Any ideas?
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Dodgevanman
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 06:43 AM
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Post #2

Here's a pic of what the ignition module looks like and a picture of the ballast resistor, which could be giving you a problem.
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File Type: jpg module.jpg (17.7 KB, 133 views)
File Type: jpg resistor.jpg (11.6 KB, 131 views)
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 07:27 AM
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Post #3

Yeah both of which are pictured in the Haynes manual but they are not in the spot indicated in the book I looked the engine compartment over a number of times and can not find them. I just went out and pulled a plug and it is dry and no spark..

Last edited by Dodge_convert : 03-21-2006 at 07:46 AM.
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andy2
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 08:06 AM
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Post #4

if your plug is dry it means no fuel is getting to the carb and to the engine. dis connect the fuel line from the carb, roll the engine over with the coil wire disconnected. if no fuel shoots out of the fuel line your fuel pump is shot or your fuel filter is plugged. if no spark, check relays on drivers side fender well under hood. also on drivers side fenderwell there are 4 to 5 wires taped together which are fuseable links. peel back the tape holding them together and inspect each wire. if one is melted, swap wire out with one of the same size. you also need to find out why the link melted.
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bherder
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 08:13 AM
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Post #5

The ballast resistor should be (Unless someone has moved it) on the firewall, tucked into the driverside corner....
The ignition module should be pretty darn close to it... Mine is on the firewall on the drivers side, right below the bulkhead...
They've GOT to be there somewhere!

[IMG]
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File Type: jpg ign bal.jpg (62.3 KB, 13 views)
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 09:24 PM
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Post #6

Here are a couple Pictures of my firewall and fender wall on the drivers side where these 2 parts are to be located, as you can see they are not there. Could they be somewhere else. I looked the whole engine compartment over and even looked inside the cab with no luck. In the Haynes it says some models had a Spark Control Computer (SCC) and the picture looks alot like what I have on my Ram but its reads Electronic Fuel Control System (EFCS) could this be the SCC they are talking about Thanks again for all the advice. The 3rd picture down shows the EFCS attached to the air cleaner.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P3212653.JPG (783.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg P3212652.JPG (777.7 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg P3212657.JPG (795.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg P3212661.JPG (762.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg P3212663.JPG (775.3 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by Dodge_convert : 03-21-2006 at 10:03 PM.
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swami2806
 
 Posted: 03-21-2006, 09:55 PM
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Post #7

I have an '87. My ignition module is on the other side of the engine, closer to the passenger side. I don't remember seeing my ballast...but I keep going by mid-70's setups, and they are in different places. I assumed if it was ESA it didn't have a ballast so didn't really look to hard...
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Dodgevanman
 
 Posted: 03-22-2006, 06:12 AM
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Post #8

Oh no man! You have the Electronic Lean Burn system on your truck. Those were very problematic and unreliable. That's probably your no-start problem.

How good are you at wiring? I ask because I would ditch that system and put in conventional electronic ignition.
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 03-22-2006, 02:09 PM
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Post #9

If the directions are good I could wire it I'm sure. Do you know how much is involved in changing it over? I have a buddy coming over in a few days who lives dodge and he is going to take a look at it for me.
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 03-22-2006, 03:11 PM
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Post #10

Oh by the way here are a few pictures of my D150. These will be the before shots. I guess I'll get the electrical and engine work done and then move on to the body work this summer and hopfully by the new year I'll have one sweet ride.. The best part is I picked it up for $500.00...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1983 Dodge D150.jpg (357.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 1983 Dodge D150 2.jpg (242.4 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 1983 Dodge D150 2 5.jpg (471.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 1983 Dodge D150 3.jpg (303.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 1983 Dodge D150 4.jpg (214.5 KB, 7 views)
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vestpuzzle1
 
 Posted: 03-22-2006, 03:39 PM
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Post #11

I like it. I have a shortbox. It is easy to switch anything on that truck. Have fun...R.V.
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red83150
 
 Posted: 03-22-2006, 08:12 PM
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Post #12

You can order a conversion kit from Summmit racing. It has the dist, wiring harness, orange box ecu, and ballast resistor. The Mopar performance one is 197.00 and the Summit brand is I think 169.00. Or you can always change it to points. You'll need a points dist and ballast resistor. Lean burn set ups are junk when they get old, very undependable.
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vestpuzzle1
 
 Posted: 03-23-2006, 11:47 AM
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Post #13

Quote:
Originally Posted by red83150
You can order a conversion kit from Summmit racing. It has the dist, wiring harness, orange box ecu, and ballast resistor. The Mopar performance one is 197.00 and the Summit brand is I think 169.00. Or you can always change it to points. You'll need a points dist and ballast resistor. Lean burn set ups are junk when they get old, very undependable.
Lean burns are JUNK. Its real easy to switch to a normal setup.....R.V.
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Dodgevanman
 
 Posted: 03-23-2006, 07:43 PM
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Post #14

The Mopar Performance kit for slant sixes has been discontinued. However you can buy all the goodies from your local parts place. Just get distributor, ballast resistor, ECU, for like a '73 Dodge pickup w/slant six. It's not hard to switch over, but if you you have an electronic feedback carb. and oxygen sensor you will have to eliminate these. Summit Racing does have the electronic ignition harness, part no. MPP-3690152 or like 20 bucks.
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 03-23-2006, 10:35 PM
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Post #15

I think I will switch over. I called my local yard and they have 4 old rams that I could go thru. Should I try them 1st or just go with the new parts?
Maybe I could just get the 318 out of my friends old Ramcharger. Major rear end damage so the front end is in great shape and should have everything I need for the switch.
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 05-13-2006, 05:00 PM
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Post #16

Ok I finally got it going and its running better then before. It turns out it was a fusable link. (thanks andy2) I didnt pull the wire wrap far enough to see it but everything is working great and with the tune up it runs very nice. It still has the lean burn system on it. Im going to leave it for now. If it works dont mess with it thats what I say. Thanks for all the input guys....
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Speed Dragon
 
 Posted: 05-14-2006, 10:37 AM
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Post #17

Glad you got it running. I would start gathering up the parts for the elec ignition conversion, cause sooner or later that ESA system will crap out on you.
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Dodge_convert
 
 Posted: 05-14-2006, 12:47 PM
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Post #18

Yeah I do have all the stuff for the switch over. It is all instaled but the dist and it needs to be wired but I'm gonna wait til I find a carb that will work with it. The one I got has a few too many vacuum ports.
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swami2806
 
 Posted: 05-14-2006, 02:18 PM
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Post #19

Just pick up some rubber caps for the ports at NAPA or somelpace. There is a variety pack they sell that should fit any port you need plugged. $2 vs. $200+
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dodge318rulez
 
 Posted: 05-14-2006, 04:14 PM
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Post #20

yea my truck did the same thing. those fusable links seem to give trouble...I shut my truck off and when i went to start it, no go. 1st the alternator wire jumped off, then it burnt a wire to the switch. It would start but wouldnt keep running. A couple weeks later another wire burnt in the same spot and it wouldnt keep the battery charged. just like the alternator wasnt there at all. Hooked that wire up and away it goes. Wiring on these old trucks is something else. Especially when its been tampered with 100 times. It starts to look pretty nasty under there. lol.
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