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jmh
 
  What temp does everyones Ram run at? - Posted: 01-19-2006, 02:49 PM
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Post #1

Mine seems to bounce from around 200 to 215. Is that cool enough? Would a lower temp tstat make any diff to benefit me?

How about Redline Water Wetter? Anyone used this stuff? is it worth the 8 bucks for the 18oz or so?
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[ 1996 RAM 2500 v10] - SOLD Dec 2013 - Bought 5/30/2013 w/ 174k miles. Needed a ton of work.
[2004 RAM 1500] - SOLD Feb 2013 w/ 157k miles.
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Dodge318
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 03:06 PM
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Post #2

Mine used to run at about 200 all the time. It dosen't any more it was stolen last night.
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Big Joe SS/T
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 04:17 PM
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Post #3

mine is 180-190 with my 180* tstat. It makes the truck run a little richer which also helps keep you from pinging.
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99ram_4x4
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 07:10 PM
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Post #4

my 360, and 2 other rams in the family, both with 318 run in the range from 195-200 with the factory 195 degree stats.

jhm...i wouldn't think that with the stock stat the engine should run as hot as 215. Have you done a coolant flush? When I flushed my cousings truck, his temp lower about 5 degrees. Just depends how dirty the coolant was.
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crazys182003
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 07:36 PM
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Post #5

mine runs about 200 solid all the time.
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98QuadCabV10
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 08:02 PM
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Post #6

215 is too hot for the winter time, unless it's loaded down. Check your coolant level. Your thermostat might be starting to stick also. If the cooling system test good then replace your thermostat and flush your cooling system. Don't forget to pressure test your cap.
Does it hit 215 when driving or sitting?
I run 185 all the time. I allmost hit 200 once when I was driving through extremely deep snow but then the fan clutch kicked in and went back to 185.
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ChevyEater360
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 08:24 PM
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Post #7

mine runs about 200-210...seems to run just fine
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jmh
 
 Posted: 01-19-2006, 09:59 PM
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Post #8

Thanks all.
Thats horrible about the stolen Ram. Its hard to have anything nice anymore.

Well, I have a leak in my radiator. I tried Bars Leaks, but no go.

I will be getting a new radiator, so, I will be flushing, replacing hoses and thermostat.

What is a good water/antifreeze mix?? And what is the easiest way to remove the transmission coolant hose? And Do I need to remove the fan, or will it be possible to get the shroud off without removing the fan?

Thanks all!!
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[ 1996 RAM 2500 v10] - SOLD Dec 2013 - Bought 5/30/2013 w/ 174k miles. Needed a ton of work.
[2004 RAM 1500] - SOLD Feb 2013 w/ 157k miles.
[2005 Durango SLT] - Wife's grocery getter/kid hauler.
[1997 RAM 1500 SLT] -- SOLD 6/25/2012 w/ 193k miles
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98QuadCabV10
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 12:24 AM
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Post #9

50/50 mixture is the best. If the temp gets below -30 where you live then you might want to have more coolant than water. Sometimes you need to use distilled water instead of tap water. It all depends where you live. I have well water and have a lot of minerals and stuff in the water so I used distilled water.
You will probably need the quick disconnect tool for the trans lines. I used a pick and small screwdriver since I couldn't find the tool.
On my truck I unbolted the fan shroud and slid it to wards the engine block. Then lifted out my radiator. But that was on a V10 I would think you could do the same on your V8.
Make sure you get one that is made in USA not china, I replaced 4 of those great china quality products in 2 months. The good thing is my cooling system was flushed real good last year.
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1/4: 15.93 @ 85.7 MPH
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redwingedram
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 01:18 PM
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Post #10

hey 98quad whats it matter with the minerals? i use well water too should i use distilled?
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Silver_DodgeRam
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 01:38 PM
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Post #11

My truck runs really cool in the winter when it is cold outside. Take this morning for example. I doubt my gauge went over 145 or 150 the entire way to work. In the hot summer, I average about 180-190.
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sgillett
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 04:34 PM
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Post #12

My '96 V10 runs at 195F all the time unless I am pulling a steep hill at full throttle with 10,000# behind it, then it goes up to about 220F.
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jmh
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 08:32 PM
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Post #13

I read in another forum that the 180 tstat caused the fuelmix to run rich. If that occurs, wouldn't carbon buildup be more likely? Anyone have any problems at all or noticed and performance increase/decrease w/ the 180tstat?
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[ 1996 RAM 2500 v10] - SOLD Dec 2013 - Bought 5/30/2013 w/ 174k miles. Needed a ton of work.
[2004 RAM 1500] - SOLD Feb 2013 w/ 157k miles.
[2005 Durango SLT] - Wife's grocery getter/kid hauler.
[1997 RAM 1500 SLT] -- SOLD 6/25/2012 w/ 193k miles
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ppp1182
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 08:40 PM
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Post #14

I run at 200 year-round, even when pulling a 5000lb boat/trailer combo. As for the minerals, they can deposit in your cooling system and eat the water pump.
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98QuadCabV10
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 08:51 PM
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Post #15

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwingedram
hey 98quad whats it matter with the minerals? i use well water too should i use distilled?
They can cause the cooling system to rust quickly if not properly mixed. PH also has an affect on it. My PH is usually around 5.0 (acidic) or lower (which is bad). Well water sure tastes a lot better than the city crap. If you properly maintain your cooling system it shouldn't rust as long as you have a 50/50 mixture. I would change over to distilled next time you flush your system.
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C.A.I.
Headers.
SCT Tuner
3" SRB Lift
Fast Man TB
GM Push Rods
2" Leveling Kit
1.7 Roller Rockers
Exhaust: No cats, Flowmaster 50
Best Runs
60': 2.27
1/8th: 10.23 @ 68.56 MPH
1/4: 15.93 @ 85.7 MPH
0-60: 7.9sec

V10 Ram Club #1

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Last edited by 98QuadCabV10 : 01-20-2006 at 11:40 PM.
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01Drift
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 10:55 PM
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Post #16

Changed thermostat back to factory 195F since some moron before me had a 180F piece in it. After major tune-up (overhaul TBI/IAC; spark plugs and high tension wires plus cap/rotor), and a new water pump, new accessory drive belt (and after thorough flush and fill to factory mixture spec; also added 8-ozs RMI-25) dealer scan tool showed 200-203F with MAX A/C on a 100F day, after getting off of highway and idling 5-minutes.

Dead stock with 110,000 miles (have owned 1-year/25,000 miles) and a muffler MORE restrictive than stock. 87-octane, meets EPA mpg figures. Never pings, loaded or empty, highway or city . . . and no death flash. Has not had plenum gasket replaced, but that finally blew since the above reading.

As I recall, Ph should be 9.0; some one correct me.
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ppp1182
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 11:12 PM
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Post #17

ph 7 is neutral. basic (higher) is better than acidic...less stress on the metal
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2000 Ram 1500 SPORT 4x4 5.9L (360) in BLACK (it looks bigger)
BFG All-Terrain T/A KO 285/70r17 from Michigan 4 x 4
Port-matched MP1 Intake Manifold from The Fastman
17x8 Off-Road Edition rims (Thanks Tazz411)
Gibson swept-side stainless single exhaust
SCT custom tuned by Hemifever
Gibson ceramic coated headers
Fastman 52mm TB
Volant CAI
3.92 LSD

Next up ():
better brakes
Flex-A-Lite efan
408 stroker with stage 3 Eddy heads
4.56 gears

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ppp1182
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 11:20 PM
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Post #18

forgot to add this...bear with me...chemist speaking...the coolant solution passing through the engine under high heat will eventually go acidic because the water reacts with the metal in the block.
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2000 Ram 1500 SPORT 4x4 5.9L (360) in BLACK (it looks bigger)
BFG All-Terrain T/A KO 285/70r17 from Michigan 4 x 4
Port-matched MP1 Intake Manifold from The Fastman
17x8 Off-Road Edition rims (Thanks Tazz411)
Gibson swept-side stainless single exhaust
SCT custom tuned by Hemifever
Gibson ceramic coated headers
Fastman 52mm TB
Volant CAI
3.92 LSD

Next up ():
better brakes
Flex-A-Lite efan
408 stroker with stage 3 Eddy heads
4.56 gears

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jdr1234
 
 Posted: 01-20-2006, 11:24 PM
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Post #19

Mine runs here:
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01Drift
 
 Posted: 03-15-2006, 11:07 AM
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Post #20

A link to a thread about pH and about electrical resistance

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=000413#000000

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...;f=37;t=000401
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