Okay, here's what I know about this so far. I will post updates whenever possible.
)1 Chisholm Suspension used to make drop spindles and control arms for them, but as far as I know they don't any more. You might be able to find some used ones on Ebay or by advertising in the wanted section of this and other websites.
)2 I have been told that using 1-ton control arms on the 1/2- and 3/4-ton trucks will drop them 1-2". The spring seat is apparently a larger diameter or slighter deeper, allowing the spring to sit lower. This was done to keep the 1-tons with the stiffer springs from sitting to high in the front. This method of dropping the front should keep all stock ride characteristics and front suspension alignments, although if you do it I would recommend checking the alignment and camber anyway to be sure.
)3 Front coil springs can be cut down some to lower the front, but too much and ride and suspension travel will suffer. One coil is probably the most I would recommend cutting off. That should be enough for a 1-2" drop. NEVER HEAT THE SPRINGS TO DROP THE TRUCK! This weakens them, and it is very hard to get both sides the same when doing this. I'm sure someone will say they've done it before w/o any problems, but IMHO I think it's a hack job at best and I would not recommend it.
)4 Rear can be dropped using any of the conventional methods: longer shackles, spring-over conversions, re-arched springs etc. Just be sure to check the pinion angle is right when doing any lowering of the rear end, or you could end up on the side of the road with a chewed-up U-joint or worse, a broken driveshaft.
)5 This is pure speculation on my part, but when I worked for a Super Late Model dirt track racecar driver, I noticed that the front suspension on his racecar was almost identical in design to the front suspension of these trucks. The upper spring seat and lower control arm could possibly be modified to accept the racing coil-over shocks like he used. This would give the ability to change spring rates and adjust the height fairly easily. How the race track parts would hold up to everyday driving I don't know, and it would definitely have a big cost factor, but it's something to speculate on.
)1 Chisholm Suspension used to make drop spindles and control arms for them, but as far as I know they don't any more. You might be able to find some used ones on Ebay or by advertising in the wanted section of this and other websites.
)2 I have been told that using 1-ton control arms on the 1/2- and 3/4-ton trucks will drop them 1-2". The spring seat is apparently a larger diameter or slighter deeper, allowing the spring to sit lower. This was done to keep the 1-tons with the stiffer springs from sitting to high in the front. This method of dropping the front should keep all stock ride characteristics and front suspension alignments, although if you do it I would recommend checking the alignment and camber anyway to be sure.
)3 Front coil springs can be cut down some to lower the front, but too much and ride and suspension travel will suffer. One coil is probably the most I would recommend cutting off. That should be enough for a 1-2" drop. NEVER HEAT THE SPRINGS TO DROP THE TRUCK! This weakens them, and it is very hard to get both sides the same when doing this. I'm sure someone will say they've done it before w/o any problems, but IMHO I think it's a hack job at best and I would not recommend it.
)4 Rear can be dropped using any of the conventional methods: longer shackles, spring-over conversions, re-arched springs etc. Just be sure to check the pinion angle is right when doing any lowering of the rear end, or you could end up on the side of the road with a chewed-up U-joint or worse, a broken driveshaft.
)5 This is pure speculation on my part, but when I worked for a Super Late Model dirt track racecar driver, I noticed that the front suspension on his racecar was almost identical in design to the front suspension of these trucks. The upper spring seat and lower control arm could possibly be modified to accept the racing coil-over shocks like he used. This would give the ability to change spring rates and adjust the height fairly easily. How the race track parts would hold up to everyday driving I don't know, and it would definitely have a big cost factor, but it's something to speculate on.
