Heater Bypass Tube Removal - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 10-30-2005, 07:25 PM
golf4dj
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Heater Bypass Tube Removal

Help,

I can't seem to get the heater bypass tube removed from the old waterpump. Any suggestions?????

Also, how difficult is it to remove and replace the small hose at the top of the pump????

I have removed everything from the vehicle and I am stuck because I cannot get the tube out. I tried to buy one from Autozone and it was not in stock. I also think that I will try and replace that small hose at the top of the pump along with the rest of them. I did no initially know it was there when I purchased all the supplies. I will go back to get it, but it looks very difficult to get too. Any suggestions there as well?

Thanks,
DJ
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#2 Old 10-30-2005, 07:35 PM
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The last time I changed a bypass tube (many yrs ago), it was rubber, I slit the clamp areas with a razor and cut 2 new pieces to fit.

Paul
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#3 Old 10-30-2005, 07:47 PM
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i heated it up with a torch, then grabbed it with channel locks and twisted it out. hope this helps

CHRIS
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#4 Old 10-30-2005, 09:16 PM
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Twist and pull. There is a little rubber O-ring in there. That is probably what is sticking.

That top hose looks like a real pain, I think you have to move the a/c compressor. Good luck.

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#5 Old 10-30-2005, 11:53 PM
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I pulled the whole bracket off that holds the A/C compressor and Alternator, just set it off to the side, keeping everything connected still.

I had to heat the tube ...actually, i think i just cut it off and replaced it with one from NAPA since i couldnt get it off. Its like a 2 dollar hose. Good luck.

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#6 Old 10-31-2005, 12:30 AM
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Bypass Tube

Thanks for the tip guys. I heated up the pump around where the tube goes in and was able to remove it.

As far as the little house, I may pay for it later but I did not replace it cause I couldn't get to the house clamps on the back end. If I would have seen Leviticus's post before putting it back together I may have tried to unhook the AC mounting bracket to move slightly to get at the clamps.

Seems like a poor design for getting at something that is a wear item. Just my 2cents.

Anyway thanks for the help, now off to put new coolant in.

DJ
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#7 Old 10-31-2005, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golf4dj
Seems like a poor design for getting at something that is a wear item. Just my 2cents.

DJ
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#8 Old 10-31-2005, 06:06 PM
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Rick, I think all transverse v6's are like that. On my old GM v8's, 2 was a pain because you couldn't see it under the A/C and 8 was tough because you couldn't use an extension or a swivel. I figured out to the hardest 1st so you're not tired and stripping the threads.

Paul
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#9 Old 11-12-2005, 12:34 AM
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All i can add is buy extra o-rings. If you pul out the metal tube. I ruined 10 of them trying to put mine back in after a water pump change out. Ended up using dry ice in water to shrink the metal a little bit, putting a little engine oil and the o-ring to help slip it in without tearing it.

I changed out the little rubber hose for a new one when i replaced the waterpump. I knew that would be a pain to get to later if it started leaking.

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#10 Old 11-12-2005, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1G BLEU
Rick, I think all transverse v6's are like that. On my old GM v8's, 2 was a pain because you couldn't see it under the A/C and 8 was tough because you couldn't use an extension or a swivel. I figured out to the hardest 1st so you're not tired and stripping the threads.
At least you can get to them... My brother in laws F150, fo-get about it. The last 4 are back hidden by the firewall. Raise the chassis off the powertrain and voila... access... sort of. My other b-i-l's expedition had to have the whole exhaust dropped, manifold and all to replace some defective o2 sensor. I asked my F150 b-i-l who's been an engineer at Ford's for 18+ years why they're doing this. His response: Anything to make it faster to build, easier to assemble and requires less human intervention supercedes everything else. He basically went on to explain that they decided to take a hit on the warranty side if something were to fail under warranty but were banking that they'd gain much more (probably VERY true) by doing this. Both in after warranty service and in production speed.

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