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#1 Old 02-05-2005, 08:40 PM
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Avenger Timing Belt ?

When I was changing my plugs and wires today on my 95 Dodge Avenger ES I noticed that it looked like I could see a belt, but wasn't sure. It looked like something had rubbed a whole in the top of the plastic that was covering it. After I completed changing the plugs and wires I started it up and noticed it was spinning also... Is that my timing belt, and what would have made the hole in the top of the plastic? Any comments or suggestions may be helpful thanks.

I also attached a picture to give whoever an idea of where I am talking about.
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#2 Old 02-05-2005, 08:47 PM
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Welcome to Dodgetalk!

Yes I believe that is your timing belt(95% certain)...if you could take a closer pic and post it I could tell you 100% if it is or not. If the spot that you see the belt threw the plastic of right on the end of the backside head and the same shape and size plastic cover is on the frontside head in the same location then yes. That plastic would be the cover for the belt and gears that turn your cams(SOHC motor).

If there is a very visible warn hole in that cover it means it is making contact with the belt which isnt good. If the plastic is warn through just think what that belt looks like.

How many miles on this engine? Have you ever had the timing belt replaced? It is not a good thing when a timing belt breaks on an OHC motor.

-Scott

1998 RED RAM 1500 SPORT RC 5.2L 4X4
2000 RED DAKOTA R/T CC****SOLD****
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#3 Old 02-06-2005, 12:07 AM
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Here is a closer picture, I'm hopin that you are wrong, but most likely you are right. Anything else you can tell me would be great, because I just convinced my financial counselor (mom) to let me buy the plugs and wires today. I am doubting that if I ask her to give me the money to buy a new timing belt. She is gonna say no. But let me know anything.
Btw: I beat most estimates today on time it takes to change plugs and wires. It took me a total time of 1 hour to change them all, including taking off the plenum to get to the back three. That made me happy.
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#4 Old 02-12-2005, 11:29 PM
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Avenger Timing Belt

That Is The Timing Belt. I Have A 99 Dodge Avenger With The 2.5l V6. I Would Suggest Changing The Belt. And Replacing The Cover If The Hole Is That Big. If You Wanna Replace The Cover Let Me Know I Have A Spare Engine For Parts.
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#5 Old 08-25-2005, 12:29 PM
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Timing Belt ?

I havbe a 95 Avenger with the 2.5 DOHC Mitsu motor........the timing belt already went out on it and the previous owner tried to replace it himself........but failed to align the cams and crank correctly can anyone help me with the proper cam alignment for putting the belt on correctly please....I think this is all I need to get this baby running.

Thanks
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#6 Old 08-25-2005, 04:52 PM
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Not to be mean, but your best bet would be to get yourself a service manual. However, the cam gears and crank gears do have timing marks on them.

Nate Breece

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#7 Old 08-26-2005, 09:34 AM
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GO TO AUTOZONE WEBSITE AND LOOK ON THE LEFT IT SAYS REPAIR INFO PLUG IN INFO AND YOU WILL FIND THIS . UNDER TIMING BELT ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
Home > Repair Info > Chrysler Cirrus/Stratus/Sebring/Avenger/Breeze 1995-1998 > ENGINE MECHANICAL

Timing Belt and Sprockets
Chrysler Cirrus/Stratus/Sebring/Avenger/Breeze 1995-1998




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Body & Trim Brakes Chassis Electrical Drive Train Driveability & Emissi . . . Engine & Engine Overh . . . Engine Electrical Fuel System General Information & . . . Suspension & Steering
Engine & Engine Overhaul:
engine mechanical
ENGINE MECHANICAL

Engine Mechanical
Engine

Rocker Arm (Valve) Cover

Rocker Arms/Shafts

Thermostat

Intake Manifold

Exhaust Manifold

Radiator

Electric Cooling Fan

Water Pump

Cylinder Head

Oil Pan

Oil Pump

Front Crankshaft Seal

Crankshaft Damper

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Timing Belt and Sprockets

Camshaft

Balance Shaft

Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal

Flywheel/Flexplate

Exhaust System
Engine Reconditioning
Charts And Specifications







Buy It Here Today:


TIMING BELT
TIMING DAMPER
TIMING GUIDE




For recommended timing belt replacement intervals, refer to General Information & Maintenance



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



2.0L SOHC Engine

See Figures 1 and 2


Fig. 1: Timing belt and cover assemblyshown with the mechanical belt tensioner



Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet, which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.

Remove the drive belts and accessories.

Remove the crankshaft damper.

Place a support under the engine and remove the right engine mount.

Remove the engine mount bracket

Remove the timing belt cover.

Align the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt by rotating the engine with the crankshaft.

Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts.

Remove the timing belt and the tensioner.

Place the tensioner into a soft jawed vise to compress the tensioner.


Fig. 2: Releasing the timing belt tension



If equipped with a hydraulic tensioner, after compressing the tensioner, place a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation. If equipped with a mechanical tensioner, install an 8mm Allen wrench into the belt tensioner, then insert the long end of a 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the 8mm wrench, while pushing in lightly on the 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench until it slides into the locking hole.

Remove the camshaft sprockets from the camshafts, if necessary, using a special camshaft sprocket holding tool.

To install:

If removed, reinstall the camshaft sprockets onto the camshaft. Install the sprocket retaining bolt and tighten to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).

Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off the sprocket 3 notches before TDC.

Set the camshaft to align the timing marks.

Move the crankshaft to 1/2 notch before TDC.

Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump and around the camshaft last.

Move the crankshaft to TDC to take up the belt slack.

Reinstall the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.

Tighten the tensioner fasteners as follows:

Mechanical tensioner assembly-250 inch lbs. (28 Nm)

Hydraulic tensioner assembly pulley bolt-50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm)

Hydraulic tensioner assembly tensioner and pivot bracket bolt-23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm)

Remove the tensioner plunger pin(s). The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.

Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks.

Reinstall the timing belt cover.

Reinstall the engine mount bracket.

Reinstall the right engine mount.

Remove the engine support.

Reinstall the crankshaft damper and tighten to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).

Reinstall the drive belts and accessories.

Reinstall the right inner splash shield.

Perform the crankshaft and camshaft "relearn" alignment procedure using the DRB scan tool or equivalent.

2.0L and 2.4L DOHC Engines

See Figures 3 and 4

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the right inner splash shield.

Remove the accessory drive belts.

Remove the crankshaft damper.

Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan, with a block of wood in between, and jack up the engine slightly so that the weight of the engine is no longer on the engine mount bracket.

Remove the upper engine mount and the engine mounting bracket.

Remove the front timing belt cover(s).


WARNING

Do not rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts after the timing belt has been removed. Damage to the valve components may occur. Before removing the timing belt, always align the timing marks.



Align the timing marks of the timing belt sprockets to the timing marks on the rear timing belt cover and oil pump cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts.

Remove the timing belt and the tensioner.


Fig. 3: Locking the timing belt tension on a mechanical tensioner



If equipped with a mechanical tensioner, install a 6mm Allen wrench into the belt tensioner, then insert the long end of a 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the 6mm wrench, while pushing in lightly on the 1/8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench until it slides into the locking hole.

Remove the camshaft sprockets.

Remove the crankshaft sprocket using special removal tool No. 6793 or equivalent.

If equipped with a hydraulic tensioner, place the tensioner into a soft jawed vise to compress the tensioner. After compressing the tensioner, place a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.

To install:

Using sprocket installation tool No. 6792 or equivalent, press the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft.

Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the sprocket retaining bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).


Fig. 4: Proper camshaft sprocket alignment for timing belt installation



Install the crankshaft sprocket. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.

Set the camshafts to align the timing marks on the sprockets.

Move the crankshaft to 1/2 notch before TDC.

Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets, and then around the tensioner pulley.

Move the crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up the belt slack.

Install the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.

Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley apply 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm) of tighten to the tensioner pulley.

With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the fasteners to 275 inch lbs. (31 Nm).

Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.

Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks. Wait several minutes and then recheck that the plunger pin can easily be removed and installed.

Reinstall the front timing belt cover(s).

Reinstall the engine mount bracket.

Reinstall the right engine mount.

Remove the floor jack from under the vehicle.

Install the crankshaft damper and tighten to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).

Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.

Install the right inner splash shield.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Check for leaks and proper engine operation.

2.5L Engine

See Figures 5 through 17

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the right inner splash shield.

Remove the accessory drive belts.

Remove the crankshaft damper.

Place a suitable floor jack under the vehicle to support the engine.

Remove the right engine mount bracket.


Fig. 5: Timing belt system-2.5L engine




Fig. 6: Timing belt and related components: timing belt (1), crankshaft sprocket (2), camshaft sprockets (3) and tensioner (4)




Fig. 7: Remove the 2 timing belt tensioner mounting bolts



Remove the timing belt upper left cover, followed by the upper right cover and lower cover.

Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts.

Before removing the timing belt, be sure to align the sprocket timing marks to the timing marks on the rear timing belt cover.


Fig. 8: Mark the rotational direction of the timing belt if it is being removed and reused




If the present timing belt is going to be reused, mark the running direction of the timing belt for installation. Remove the timing belt and the tensioner.

Remove the sprockets from the camshafts, if necessary, using a special camshaft sprocket holding tool.

Remove the crankshaft sprocket and key.


Fig. 9: Remove the timing belt from the engine




Fig. 10: If a sprocket holding tool is not available, one can be fabricated with a couple of nuts, long bolts and a thick, long piece of metal stock




Fig. 11: Hold the sprocket stationary with the special tool




Fig. 12: While holding the sprocket secure, loosen the mounting bolt




Fig. 13: Remove the sprocket and mounting bolt from the camshaft




Fig. 14: Remove the crankshaft sprocket and key




Fig. 15: After removing the timing belt tensioner, mount it in a bench vise and compress until the 2 holes of the tensioner align with each other ...




Fig. 16: ... then install a small diameter hex key to retain the compressed position



Place the tensioner into a soft jawed vise to compress the tensioner.

After compressing the tensioner, place a pin into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.

To install:

If removed, reinstall the sprockets onto the camshafts. Install the sprocket retaining bolts and tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

If removed, reinstall the crankshaft sprocket and key onto the crankshaft.


Fig. 16: Line up the crankshaft sprocket's timing mark with that on the oil pump housing



Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off the sprocket 3 notches before TDC.

Set the camshafts so that their sprockets' timing marks align with those on the rear timing belt cover.

Install the timing belt on the right camshaft sprocket (the one closest to the firewall) first.

Install a binder clip on the belt to the sprocket so that it won't slip out of position.

Keeping the belt taut, install it under the water pump pulley and around the left camshaft sprocket.

Install a binder clip on the left camshaft sprocket and belt.

Rotate the crankshaft to TDC.

Continue routing the belt by the idler pulley and around the crankshaft sprocket to the tensioner pulley.

Remove the binder clips.

Move the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to TDC to take up the belt slack. Check that all timing marks are in alignment.

Reinstall the tensioner to the block, but do not tighten.

Using special tool No. MD998767 and a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley, apply 39 inch lbs. (4.4 Nm) of torque to the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).

With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner bracket and tighten the fasteners to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.

Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions clockwise and recheck the timing marks. Check to make sure the tensioner plunger pin can be easily installed and removed. If the pin does not remove and install easily, perform the procedure again.

Install the lower timing belt cover, followed by the upper right cover and upper left cover.

Install the engine mount bracket.

Install the right engine mount.

Remove the engine support.

Install the crankshaft damper and tighten to 134 ft. lbs. (182 Nm).

Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to proper tension.

Install the right inner splash shield.
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#8 Old 12-15-2005, 11:20 PM
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Can you help me real quick

You said you changed the plugs and wires, how hard is it to take the plenum off because I need to change my plugs and wires.
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#9 Old 12-16-2005, 12:53 AM
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It isn't that hard. Everyone else gave me a 4 hour time frame, but it took me a whole hour to do the whole thing. It shouldn't be that hard, just remember to plug everything back in that you take off, some of the bolts are somewhat difficult to get to, but not that hard. If you have any problems let me know.
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#10 Old 12-16-2005, 12:45 PM
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When changing the plugs and wires, when I take the plenum off does it need to be re sealed when I put it back on or anything like that.
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#11 Old 12-16-2005, 03:02 PM
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No, not that I know of. It's been a year since I've done it, but I didn't have to reseal it. And it's been a while since I've drivin it period. What year do you have?
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#12 Old 04-17-2006, 05:25 PM
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This is great info! Does anyone have access to a write up for the 2.5L timing belt removal and installation? The one above looks like it is for the 2.0 4cyl. I tried looking on Autozone's site and they don't have this car up anymore.

Anyone?

THANKS!

~George
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#13 Old 07-22-2006, 07:15 PM
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does anyone know where i can find a lower timing tensioner bolt the one that goes on the bracket on a 1996 2.0 liter dodge avenger mine broke and havent been able to find one
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