Air bleed in Cooling system - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 11-05-2013, 11:52 AM
jarheadX2
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Air bleed in Cooling system

Guys help needed here. 2002 Ram 1500 4.7. Replaced lower radiator hose and Thermostat gasket because it was leaking right at the housing. Fixed it, no leaks. Now truck is overheating.

Let it cool, pulled the cap and let it run for a good 15 minutes. No fluid came to the top or spilled out and the temp gauge was climbing way above normal again before I shut it off. Going to try and get the front end up on an uphill slant and find the bleeder valve. Wasn't exactly sure where it was? I did turn the heat on full just before I shut the truck off and it was blowing good heat. But, wondering if that was from the motor being so hot or the thermostat actually opened and normal heat was flowing through.

Thanks guys. New here but plan on sticking around for awhile.
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#2 Old 11-05-2013, 01:53 PM
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What you should do is drill a tiny hole in your Thermostat.

What is happening is when you fill it up - the air from the rest of the system/block fill us behind the thermostat and creating a HUGE pocket of air. You think it's full cause the fluid is at the cap.

The tiny hole in the T-Stat will allow the air to purge up!

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#3 Old 11-05-2013, 01:56 PM
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#4 Old 11-05-2013, 02:06 PM
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Isn't that what the little brass fitting deal is for on the thermostat?
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#5 Old 11-05-2013, 03:55 PM
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Ah, so you did get one with the tear drop brass plug..


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#6 Old 11-05-2013, 05:18 PM
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The bleeder valve as you called it is on the drivers side and looks like a set screw. You will need an allen wrench to remove it. Oh and the vent that's built into the thermostat should be in the 12 o'clock position.

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#7 Old 11-05-2013, 05:25 PM
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I had a similar issue with my truck when I swapped the tstat out. I ended up having to fill the system with coolant at the bleeder valve as the air was not allowing the coolant in the radiator to get into the engine block. you might want to open up the bleeder valve (it will be, as said above, an allen wrench screw on the inlet for the radiator hose coming out of the drivers' side of the engine and top of the radiator and see if you have fluid in there. when I pulled my bleeder screw there was none in there and like I said I had to fill it up from this opening

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#8 Old 11-05-2013, 06:07 PM
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Okay. I'll give it a try. Very frustrating. Upper hose is hot, lower hose is cold when idiling. Blows hot air. But with overflow/radiator cap off, there is not a gurgling or rise and fall of the fluid. It's moving through the overflow. Stays at the same level constantly, but continues to overheat.
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#9 Old 11-05-2013, 06:30 PM
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That sounds like an air pocket for sure!


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#10 Old 11-05-2013, 08:38 PM
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Okay guys, unscrewed the bleeder valve and fluid came pouring out like a fountain. Had overflow/radiator cap off also. Drained 1/2 the overflow out before putting the bleeder valve back on. Any suggestions?

Very frustrated. Went from just fixing a small leak with t'stat gasket repair to overheating issues that weren't there before.
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#11 Old 11-05-2013, 09:51 PM
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Go to parts store (NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, wherever!) And get yourself one of these....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ntent=22970131

Worht it's weight in GOLD!!! Especially for Mopar products. And well, I've used it on every vehicle I added coolant to!

Get one! Not that expensive, Reall!!

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#12 Old 11-05-2013, 10:12 PM
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That's great for capturing the fluid but how does
that solve my air bleed problem? Or did the trapped air just
push fluid out of bleeder. I capped it thinking the whole
system was going to drain out
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#13 Old 11-05-2013, 11:08 PM
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You attach this funnel to the radiator, where the cap goes. Fill the funnel about halfway then start the engine. You may have to put the "stick" inside the funnel in order to build a little pressure (BE CAREFUL with this step!!!) and therefore create some heat. If the engine is already warm, the thermostat (assuming it works) will open slowly at that point. Just let her idle for some time. Not sure how long to tell you, but you'll see air escape out the funnel.

The funnel, being HIGHER than anything else in the radiator/engine/cooling system will creat some Head Pressure to basically allow gravity to do it's thing. Any air will be forced by that head pressure thru the system. The trapped air will escape to the highest point, in this case, the funnel.

Once all air has been bled, insert the "stick" back in to plug the funnel (With the engine OFF!) and unscrew the funnel from the Rad. Pour the rest of coolant into overflow, by removing stick in funnel over the overflow tank, and top off tank to HOT mark.

I really shouod do a "How To" with pics, but this isn't that hard. Again, the funnel is the highest point, much higher than Rad, Engine and Heater Core with this set-up.

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#14 Old 11-05-2013, 11:15 PM
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Try this video. Not mine, but EXACTLY what you need to do!!


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#15 Old 11-05-2013, 11:34 PM
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Get the nose of the up while it's at idle. If you don't, you run the risk of trapping air in the heater core or the top of the cylinder heads.

Are you sure the t-stat is in right?

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#16 Old 11-06-2013, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. I think I'm going to start over and drain it and make sure I did get that brass plug on the t'stat at the 12 o'çlock position and reburb the system again. Not sure what esle it could be at this point besides possibly bad t'stat positioning or bad t'stat in general.
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#17 Old 11-06-2013, 09:01 AM
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If you use the funnel you can squeeze the upper radiator hose to try to get some air pockets out.



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#18 Old 11-06-2013, 11:17 AM
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The Spill Free Funnel is a great tool. I've always wanted one. Adding it to my Christmas list now!



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