31dec video added!4wd front diff metall clinking noise

? I called the dealer to setup an appointment for monday but I want your thoughts on what you think couldnt be going on. I serched but didn't see anything that was relative.

(Truck does have 4" Rough Country Lift (F- 41.62", R- 42.75")/ Toyo Open Country 35x12.5 R20)
Detail:
-over 15 mph = clinking noise(sounds like -tink tink tink tink tink tink tink tink)
-under 15 mph = no clinking noise
-noise doesn't seem to get faster or louder with speed
-2wd = clinking
-4wd = no clinking

Noise sounds like metal to metal. A while back I got a couple "service 4wd" light on and go off when driving on the highway around 65mph. The dealer said they didnt know what it was turning that light on so they cleared it and haven't seen it since. I dont know if they is tied in to this or not.

Does it happen when u turn around corner or straight?


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Do you have full time or part time 4wd?

Over the weekend you could try and narrow it down some.

Pull the transfer case in neutral, raise the front end on blocks and rotate the front wheels and see if the noise is there. CV's will be at the most extreme angle, so if it's them it should be obvious real quick (click, click, click...), but maybe not, so you could ...

Pull the front drive shaft and take the truck around the block and see if the noise is still there.

I had a somewhat similar problem with my Kia Borrego 4wd. I heard a metal to metal sound at the transfer case. The noise was sometimes yes sometimes no, 4wd or 2wd, fast slow, the clanking was realy erratic. Anyway, to make a short story boring, it turned out to be the rear diff. The noise was being transmitted up the drive shaft to the transfer case.

All that to say you may have to isolate where the noise is coming from by isolating the connective parts (transfer case from front end, front diff from xfer case, etc.)

I don't know anything about RC 4" lift, but maybe the CV angle is just that much too much and the CV's are going.

Originally Posted by SikHemi

Does it happen when u turn around corner or straight?
Both

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Originally Posted by Tobor

Do you have full time or part time 4wd?

Over the weekend you could try and narrow it down some.

Pull the transfer case in neutral, raise the front end on blocks and rotate the front wheels and see if the noise is there. CV's will be at the most extreme angle, so if it's them it should be obvious real quick (click, click, click...), but maybe not, so you could ...

Pull the front drive shaft and take the truck around the block and see if the noise is still there.

I had a somewhat similar problem with my Kia Borrego 4wd. I heard a metal to metal sound at the transfer case. The noise was sometimes yes sometimes no, 4wd or 2wd, fast slow, the clanking was realy erratic. Anyway, to make a short story boring, it turned out to be the rear diff. The noise was being transmitted up the drive shaft to the transfer case.

All that to say you may have to isolate where the noise is coming from by isolating the connective parts (transfer case from front end, front diff from xfer case, etc.)

I don't know anything about RC 4" lift, but maybe the CV angle is just that much too much and the CV's are going.

When I put it in 4wd the sound instantly goes away. I may give the jack up the front and spin the tires a try.

Yep. Cv angles are too extreme. I had same problem with 01 gmc with bigger keys and I cranked them. Grinding sound. I only heard it when I slowed down to take exit off highway cuz of my loud tires. I lowered truck and it went away.


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Originally Posted by SikHemi

Yep. Cv angles are too extreme. I had same problem with 01 gmc with bigger keys and I cranked them. Grinding sound. I only heard it when I slowed down to take exit off highway cuz of my loud tires. I lowered truck and it went away.


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How has noone else had this problem when lifting 4" or even 6" Why does it go away when I shift into 4wd? truck has had lift for like 8,000 miles and truck has 10k on it

The thing about CV joints is that it takes some time for them to wear out. Unless the input-output shaft angles to the CV were so extreme that it binds instantly, you really wouldn't notice them self destructing until they start to give the warnings sounds of clicking.

When in 4wd the forces are different on the CV jnt. In 2wd the CV is "free wheeling" in 4dw the CV jnt is being pushed by the front diff so there's less "slop" or gapping in the CV jnt.

If the drive line (half shafts, CV jnt, and output shaft to the wheel) are mostly in a straight line, the the only real wear loads to the CV jnt would be when the wheel is turned to the left or the right while accelerating. That's why in most cars they tend to last close to forever.

If the drive line angles to and from the CV are greater then straight then there is a wear mode all the time and it becomes even more servere when the wheels are turned to the left or the right (Compound angles).

If it is a CV jnt then there are a thousand reasons why yours and not someone elses. It could be the weight of your tire-rim combo, the alignment of your front end compared to others (The front ends camber could be different on yours), the manufacturing tolerances of the RC kit could be off, heck maybe the frame on yours is slightly off and with all the RC piece tolerances it could be lady luck flipped you the bird. OR ... maybe it's just a bad CV jnt from the factory, that happens too.

The sound is the grooves catching when ur not in 4wd. When u put it in 4wd they engage and work fine. Almost like trying to put square block in round hole lol. Fits kinda but gets hung up


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I'm having the exact trouble, I have a noise in my left front tire area where it sounds metal to metal after i put on my bilsteins and body lift, I checked my body mounts and those didnt seem to be the problem, mine occurs everytime I hit a bump it seems but doesnt go away in 4wd, its really bugging me pretty badly, hopefully you get yours figured out, best of luck. My truck only has 19,000 miles btw

Lower your bils and see if it goes away


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Jades,

You just have the 4" RC and no Bilsteins right? If that's the case you *should* have a 4" lift but a 4" drop bracket, thus making your CV angle the exact same as stock. I'm not too familiar with the RC 4" but do you know (or you can also measure) your drop bracket to see what it is.

Originally Posted by Musclemckeester

Jades,

You just have the 4" RC and no Bilsteins right? If that's the case you *should* have a 4" lift but a 4" drop bracket, thus making your CV angle the exact same as stock. I'm not too familiar with the RC 4" but do you know (or you can also measure) your drop bracket to see what it is.

Yes, that is right. I took my truck in to the dealer today and he took it for a drive and said he didn't hear it. After that he put the truck on the lift spun the tires and it didn't make any noises. I told him I heard the noises for three days so I took him for a ride. In order to hear the noise I got up to 25mph let off and you could hear clink clink clink clink clink clink clink clink. He said its not the CV axles but was unsure what was producing the sound. He said that he doesn't think that the actuator is bad because there is no code being thrown. What he decided to do is order a new from driveshaft under warranty. (waiting for him to call me when he gets the parts)

The whole time he was showing me under my truck he kept saying that the front and rear driveshaft u joints are going to burn out quick because of the diff angle with the aluminum spacer. Has anyone had any problems with this or is just his opinion?

I asked him why when I shift into 4wd the noise goes away and he said IDK. lol

Anyone know of any beefer u joints for our trucks? Just want to look at those if that were the problem. Lookin on 4wheel parts right now.

"... he said it wasn't the CV joints but unsure what was producing the sound..."

Is there another dealer nearby to get a second opinion? The tech might be right but if it's warranty work anyway a second set of eyes may be worth it.


Short story:

Years ago I had a '79 4x4 Suburban with 350 4bbl, auto. The thing would shake and resonate around 70 mph. I replaced tires, rims, front and rear hubs, and still it shook. So I had custom front and rear drive shafts made (spund balanced to something like 35,000 rpm). Still not right. So I had all rubber attach points in the front and rear suspension replaced. I was going to find this "problem". nope, still hsakes. So pulled the motor and had it balanced and blue-printed and breathed on real heavy (cam, crank, pistons, hi flo heads, solid rockers, etc.). While the motor was out I had all exhaust attach points replaced and new pipe and hangers put on. Geez, I'm already this far in might as well get the tranny done by the local speed shop including new torque converter, B&M shift kit, and new swash plate.

After all of that work the thing ran at eye watering speeds and got there quickly ... but STILL viberated. Close to 25K$ spent chasing a "problem" and in the end I still had a '79 Suburban with rust, dents, and pitted chrome worth nowhere near what I spent to "fix" it.

Next time I'll either live with it or sell it and try again with something else.

So to answer your question, I don't know of any custom or heavy duty U-joints for these trucks.

I think Kore makes a set. Around $700-$800 for both. You don't need beffier you need a better angle for them. Pretty sure Kore's is the high angle kit. This is the exact reason I didn't lift my truck yet. Too many kinks to be worked out. Body lift sounds better everyday.


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I just don't get how noone else has had this problem with a 4" or 6" lift? yea the guy was saying he thinks that its the ujoints making the noise. I honestly have no clue at this point. I guess I will find out when the parts get here.

What did u order the Kore cv's?


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Originally Posted by SikHemi

What did u order the Kore cv's?


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no, I didn't order cv's. The cv's are the same angle as stock. The dealer orders a new from drive shaft. Hopefully he orderd new joint too. Even if it were the u joints why would it stop making the noise when I shift into 4wd?

if it stops making noise when you go into 4wd, it could be your front diff. bearings starting to go.
that would also make sense with it being more noticeable at slower speeds.... sometimes it will not be noticeable, once you get up to around 40mph and drive for a few mins?
and you would have more stress on the diff, with the lift and bigger tires.
just a guess.... good luck figuring it out.

[quote=Jadesmarine;4454518]? I called the dealer to setup an appointment for monday but I want your thoughts on what you think couldnt be going on. I serched but didn't see anything that was relative.

(Truck does have 4" Rough Country Lift (F- 41.62", R- 42.75")/ Toyo Open Country 35x12.5 R20)
Detail:
-over 15 mph = clinking noise(sounds like -tink tink tink tink tink tink tink tink)
-under 15 mph = no clinking noise
-noise doesn't seem to get faster or louder with speed
-2wd = clinking
-4wd = no clinking

I just wanted to say that the dealer ordered a new driveshaft and is putting it in next week. The noise is slowly getting louder. Tonight I got on the high which the speed limit is 70mph and I heard the metal grinding sound. I tried to capture a video. When you listen to it ignore the 14mag. Can you guys here the metal sound????? Im going go in fkn sane!