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kinkypuppy
 
  1998 Dodge 1500 transmission noise - Posted: 07-14-2012, 10:50 AM
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Post #1

This "sounds" like a torque converter issue. If it was a manual I would say its a throwout bearing.
Start truck, get LOUD grinding noise. (almost like a starter gear grinding crank up, no its not that)put in any gear, noise stops vehicle runs good. Same noise in neutral.
Am getting ready to pull pan.
Noise is definitely from rear of engine.
The transmission might be a 46RE and I am unfamiliar with electronic solenoids.
Thoughts?
I am 35 miles away from nearest shop and money is non-existent.
Its got 100k and on its 2nd transmission.
Fuel economy has been dismal for sometime.
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spun360
 
 Posted: 07-14-2012, 09:02 PM
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Post #2

any auto parts store could sell you a standard new replacement. dont believe in the rebuilt tqs.
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Moparite
 
 Posted: 07-15-2012, 08:18 AM
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Post #3

Quote:
(almost like a starter gear grinding crank up, no its not that)
If the bendix sticks it will sound like that.
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kinkypuppy
 
 Posted: 07-15-2012, 11:30 AM
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Post #4

Once pan is pulled i will inspect residue, if its clean then can i "assume" its not the t. converter tearing itself apart.
Don't think it is the bendix on the starter as once its driven a bit if it goes back into part or neutral the noise reoccurs.
The Bendix would show obvious signs of damage once the starter is removed or would it?
There are no "codes" or error lights when this is happening. I have truck jacked up and will start disassembily this week. The noise is so bad that driving it to a trans shop may just aggravate the problem and it may not make it the 35 miles. Besides once there i may not get it home. and giving the local "shop" 500.-1000. that I do not have is not an option. We live in a fairly remote valley that has more than its share of "garage" mechanix however we do not know anyone here after 3 years, so I am forced to repair it myself. (Before you say "this charactor is an idiot" I have pulled a few times and rebuilt once a Race prepped C-6 on my '70 Ford Bronco by myself and converted a 1970 Bronco into a Baja-1000 racer so I am not totally foolish) I just lack the experiance to diagnose a noise.
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kinkypuppy
 
 Posted: 07-18-2012, 09:37 PM
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Post #5

Pulled access cover off flexplate. The 4 bolts that attach the Drive plate to the flex plate are so loose that two turns remove them.
Question #1 the holes on the drive plate are not too bad but are a bit egg shaped. They should be ok if I torque them back down.
Question #2 the bolts did not have washers or lock washers on them. is this normal?
Question #3 should I go with aftermarket t converter bolts?
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Moparite
 
 Posted: 07-19-2012, 10:22 AM
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Post #6

I'm not sure what you mean by"Drive plate"? There should be 6 bolts that attach the flexplate to the crank and 4 to attach the flexplate to the torque converter. What do the bolts look like as far as damage. Wear on the threads head etc..Picks? If they do need to be replaced it is specialty hardware and not something you are going to get a home depot.
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kinkypuppy
 
 Posted: 07-19-2012, 10:54 AM
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Post #7

Flexplate to torque converter.
They do not have lock washers
All 4 are two turns from coming off
I beleave torque speck on them are only 10 lbs.
The transmission was rebuilt by a local trans shop 2 yrs ago ( less then 1000 miles) I am finding wrong header bolts as well.
My ford has *ftermarket bolts with lock washers
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JackedDak03
 
 Posted: 07-19-2012, 12:00 PM
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Post #8

I can't remember 100% from when I removed mine but I don't think mine had lockwashers either. But they weren't easily removed, took some convincing to get them out. I'd throw some loctite on them and put them on to the correct torque specs, or really tight with a wrench.
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ozplanet
 
 Posted: 07-19-2012, 03:28 PM
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Post #9

Yep no lock washers and tighten as tight as you can they are in a tight area and if you try to over tighten the engine will rotate. They are also fine thread your lucky you checked the bolts are not that easy to find fine thread and just the right length to give you enough room to install.
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