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Jeffpeeps32
 
  Front crank seal - Posted: 02-29-2012, 01:18 AM
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Post #1

Ok I have and 06 5.9l 24v with 150k I have a slow oil leak where the leak is i beleive to be at the front crank seal. (I think the seafoam right before an oil change caused this). It doesnt leak when its sitting but im sure its spitting while driving. I checked it out and the seems to be at that seal because its not wet above it. im wondering if anybody has dealt with this and if so how they fixed it or can anybody shed some light on the extent of the repair and any tricks ill need to know. the part runs about 30$ and i am work on my own truck kind of guy
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Mopard
 
 Posted: 03-01-2012, 03:06 PM
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Post #2

Not much help with the fix but can tell you I also had to have the front crank seal replaced on my 06 at about 140K kms (approx. 84K miles) ... done through warranty though.
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 03-02-2012, 04:54 PM
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Post #3

it seems to be a quick fix just hoping that it is and who knows i may find more that why i was asking to see if that was leaking what else normaly goes with it or follows it
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Psychomechanic
 
 Posted: 03-23-2012, 10:06 PM
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Post #4

Front crank seals are extremely easy to replace. Removing the fan and fan shroud gives you all the access you need. Once those are off take the vibration damper off then all the bolts holding the cover to the housing and pull off. There are different length bolts so make sure you know where they come from. Take a good look at the end of your crank and make sure the seal hasn't worn a groove in it. If it has get a kit with a speedy sleeve. Set the cover face down on your workbench with a piece of steel on either side of the seal and pound out with a hammer and punch. Putting the seal back in is opposite of removal, it goes in from the front. I like to put a bit of Loctite 620 around the outside of the seal, not sure if it is nesessary though. Having a press to push it back in makes it a lot easier but if you are careful you can tap it into the cover with a hammer. Use some RTV silicone around the outside of the cover for a gasket and make sure the end of the crank is DRY, use brake cleaner or equivalent as these are dry seals. It will leak again if there is oil on it. Then put it all back together opposite of how it came apart. Let me know if you need any other info.
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2009 3500 Mega Cab 4X4 CTD
S&B CAI
H&S EGR/cooler delete
H&S Black Maxx tuner
DPF delete
HBS 2" leveling kit
Access Lorado soft tonneau cover
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Previous Ram's:
2003 1500 QC 4X4 4.7L
2003 2500 QC 4X4 Sport 5.9L CTD
1990 250 5.9L CTD


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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 03-24-2012, 01:29 PM
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Post #5

Awsome thank you i was wonderting when someone was going to ge back to me on this. greatly apriciated! Is this a common thing that happens i just want to make sure im not fixing something and come to find out that something else should be replace at the same time
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Psychomechanic
 
 Posted: 03-24-2012, 02:08 PM
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Post #6

Yea, I have done a few in my time already. My 6.7 is starting to leak too so I will have to take care of it this spring before it gets too bad. Once you get the damper off you will be able to see if the oil is coming from the seal.
__________________
2009 3500 Mega Cab 4X4 CTD
S&B CAI
H&S EGR/cooler delete
H&S Black Maxx tuner
DPF delete
HBS 2" leveling kit
Access Lorado soft tonneau cover
285/70 17 Nokian Vatiiva AT's


Previous Ram's:
2003 1500 QC 4X4 4.7L
2003 2500 QC 4X4 Sport 5.9L CTD
1990 250 5.9L CTD


God Squad 1985 - eternity
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 03-25-2012, 04:30 PM
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Post #7

I sure do hope thats the problem, and if thats it i cant complain 150k miles and still strong with no other major problems except corroded battery terminals
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 04-24-2012, 06:19 PM
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Post #8

Hey its that time to change it was wondering if they sold kits for the sleeve and the seal if so where can i find one
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Psychomechanic
 
 Posted: 04-24-2012, 11:03 PM
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Post #9

Cummins sells the best kit as far as I am concerened. Their speedy sleeve is really thick. I have seen some cranks that are quite worn and have put JB weld in the groove and sanded it smooth prior to putting the paper thin sleeves on. Cummins' sleeve you don't have to do that. I use the vibration damper to press it on, just get it started then use 2 bolts in the damper and slowly press it on until it is flush with the front of the crank. The jobber ones that I have seen sell the sleeve and seal seperately. They have a tin cup that you hit with a hammer and that drives the sleeve on.
__________________
2009 3500 Mega Cab 4X4 CTD
S&B CAI
H&S EGR/cooler delete
H&S Black Maxx tuner
DPF delete
HBS 2" leveling kit
Access Lorado soft tonneau cover
285/70 17 Nokian Vatiiva AT's


Previous Ram's:
2003 1500 QC 4X4 4.7L
2003 2500 QC 4X4 Sport 5.9L CTD
1990 250 5.9L CTD


God Squad 1985 - eternity
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 04-25-2012, 07:49 AM
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Post #10

awsome thanks alot
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 04-25-2012, 08:54 AM
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Post #11

well good thing the cummins shop is right down the raod and only a 100$ to fix it now just to find time this weekend to do it

Again Thanks
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wixthedog
 
 Posted: 04-25-2012, 11:26 AM
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Post #12

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffpeeps32 View Post
well good thing the cummins shop is right down the raod and only a 100$ to fix it now just to find time this weekend to do it

Again Thanks
Take pictures as you go to help the next guy out!

Have fun and enjoy the wrench time, no throwing things....
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Jeffpeeps32
 
 Posted: 04-25-2012, 08:29 PM
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Post #13

well throwing things is part of the job getting accomplished after busting knuckles
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Jeffpeeps32
 
  Finished - Posted: 05-01-2012, 06:22 PM
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Post #14

Ok this weekend i got it done and have some pics too. took me 4 hours to get it apart and then 1 1/2 to put it back together and oil change. Here is what i had to do first you take the serpentine belt then you have take the whole fan mount, power steering will need to unbolted to be able to get to the bolts for the cover also you will need to remove the belt tensioner also to get to the bolts. The crank had a worn ring on it but the seal and sleeve kit work awesome. When taking the plate off lay out the bolts out as they come off or you can number them the pattern worked for me. After getting the plate off i used a small punch and worked my way around the seal pushing from the inside of the plate out. after getting it out take the chance to clean everything up a good degreaser worked Power Purple worked awesome but make sure you get it all off. Then replacing the seal flip the cover over i used a red loctite and ran a small bead on the outside of the seal i used a small rubber mallet to pound it back in be careful it is a tight fit and try to get it in as straight as possible before you start pounding. The sleeve was easy but tedious i started the sleeve with the mallet after i got enough on there i used the dampener to push it on with the 4 bolts a 1/4 turn at a time that was about 20 minutes and yes my arms were hurtin. now when replacing the cover i ran a small bead of gasket seal (Smurf Shit). Before you place the seal on the crank i used some brake cleaner to clean the crank and make sure it was dry. when putting it on have a buddy to help ya so he can hold the cover while you fit the seal over the crank. make sure the seal doesnt fold, crease, and a thin small screw driver to push the part of the seal around the crank. after that replace all your bolts put everything back together and your ready to roll. Sorry was in a rush didnt get as many photos as i wanted to for you guys. One more thing dont put it on a lift you will find it easier to lay on the ground cause you will need to go from the top too
IMG_2859.jpg

IMG_6969.jpg

IMG_6987.jpg
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Psychomechanic
 
 Posted: 05-01-2012, 08:28 PM
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Post #15

Glad it all worked out for you!
__________________
2009 3500 Mega Cab 4X4 CTD
S&B CAI
H&S EGR/cooler delete
H&S Black Maxx tuner
DPF delete
HBS 2" leveling kit
Access Lorado soft tonneau cover
285/70 17 Nokian Vatiiva AT's


Previous Ram's:
2003 1500 QC 4X4 4.7L
2003 2500 QC 4X4 Sport 5.9L CTD
1990 250 5.9L CTD


God Squad 1985 - eternity
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