Just flushed radiator, having Trouble bleeding air out of radiator - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 02-25-2012, 02:11 PM
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Just flushed radiator, having Trouble bleeding air out of radiator

Just installed a 180 thermostat, flushed cooling system, have only got 8 litres of coolant/water in so far. Read the book and old posts , I've ran it, let top hose get hot, shut it off, squeezed upper hose, let it cool and redo it. Why is such a simple job being a pain in the ass, any thing else I should do. I put the thermostat in with the nipple thing at 12:00.

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#2 Old 02-25-2012, 02:17 PM
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Do what you just did with the ft higher than the back, (Pointed up hill ) that should help.



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#3 Old 02-25-2012, 04:39 PM
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Just tried that, still nothing. Went for a drive and parked on a steep hill for awhile. Lower hose is cold as is hose for overflow tank. This is driving me nuts, waste of time, can't believe how long this is taking, should I keep trying or maybe pull thermostat out and redo, could there be air behind it?

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#4 Old 02-25-2012, 06:08 PM
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Make sure you are running the heater on high/hot while letting it get to temp, that way it is circulating throughout the entire cooling system to flush out the air. Good luck.

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#5 Old 02-26-2012, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
Make sure you are running the heater on high/hot while letting it get to temp, that way it is circulating throughout the entire cooling system to flush out the air. Good luck.
Just done this on my 03.......and I totally agree with hawk02.
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#6 Old 02-26-2012, 07:01 AM
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What about leaving the cap off when you first start it up and squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses? Did this on a 70 Charger and seems to got it out I think.

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#7 Old 02-26-2012, 10:10 AM
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When I put my 180 in I had to keep my electric fan off and idle the truck at near 2000 rpm to get it hot enough to open the thermostat to start cycling.

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#8 Old 02-26-2012, 07:57 PM
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I always park with the front up hill and I leave the cap off when I start the truck and let it circulate. I then turn the heater to hot to make sure the heater core fills. You can actually see the air bubbles working their way and bubbling up and out the fill tube if you watch it. Never have had any issues.

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#9 Old 02-29-2012, 08:40 PM
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I've been driving it around the last few days. The temperature will go up to just below half, then seems to settle down to where it should be, once and awhile it will move up a hair. It hasn't gone above half. Also, just checked when I got home, rad cap was cold as was lower hose, something doesn't seem right. Coolant level is steady.

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#10 Old 02-29-2012, 08:51 PM
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It should have removed all air pockets by now....

There is only one way to get rid of air lock... run the temperature to overheat than let it sit over night, Top off in the morning and good to go.

OR before you put the thermostat in, push open the thermostat and shove in an aspirin to hold the thermostat open. You will get flow until it dissolves and your good to go. Do it with every t-stat replacement.
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#11 Old 03-01-2012, 11:22 AM
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I dont see what the hell you guys are talking about. Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of fan or temp setting in the cab.....thats pretty funny though!!!

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#12 Old 03-01-2012, 11:49 AM
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I run the fan and heater because it seems to be a high point in the system. If you're not getting any heat, your level is low. But with the cap off, heat in the cabin, and you can feel the t-stat opening and closing in the bottle, you should be OK. If you're having problems, I'd check the level every time I could. I'm not sure about your model year but I can open and remove my cap anytime without the fear of the system flash-boiling the fluid. By releasing the pressure while it running, you have better chance of removing any and all of air from the system. But PLEASE be careful when you try this for the first time. I had a radiator flash-boil on my and it put me in the burn unit for more than week. I did every right. The cap was cool to the touch; I turned the cap to the first stop to relief any pressure in the system; and then slowly removed the cap. The problem was the cap was defective and the lower section with the seal was jammed into the neck of the side tank. So the pressure was not released until the cap was completely removed. At that point, it flash-boiled and blew the boiling anti-freeze across my chest-neck-a-face. If you doubt me, I scan the picture and show you a very fugly picture of me while I has in the burn unit. It ain't a pretty sign!

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#13 Old 03-01-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by crasher76 View Post
I dont see what the hell you guys are talking about. Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of fan or temp setting in the cab.....thats pretty funny though!!!
I would have to disagree with that statement.

Here is why:

Under the right conditions (ambient temperature, amount of air, in the system, size of the heater core) I can see how this may work in a very few situations. The reason you get air lock is because the coolant in the block is hot and the air trapped at the thermostat is cold so it causes the thermostat to not open and not allow fluid to flow. By running the heat you are cooling the fluid in the block thus allowing the thermostat to open as the air is heated on the other side equally. If the coolant in the block gets too hot than you will not get the thermostat to open at all until it cools down again because you will have 2 extremes, cool air on one side and hot fluid on the other.

In all actuality, the heater core is like the radiator but opposite purpose. The heater core is heated by the fluid and the heat is carried by the fan. The more air dissipated by the heater fan (the higher the fan speed) the more cooling property the heater core has. The radiator is heated by the fluid and then is cooled by air flowing through it. Same principal but totally different reason.

After all my experience with cars/trucks... I stick to my previous statement... been doing it that way for years... the best cure for air lock once you have it is to run the vehicle till the temperature gauge spikes (overheating) than let it sit for hours to cool down allowing the temperature to equalize through out the system. Once cooled down add fluid and your done.

But cranking up the heat with the radiator off seems to be the common response on google.

I will stick to the aspirin in the t-stat when you install it so I don't run into it at all.

And for anyone that is daring enough to take off a radiator cap after the vehicle has ran for even a minute... please do so with a few rags between your hands and the cap. At least that way you can control what happens. Your hands may get hot... very hot but at least you can shove the cap back on.
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#14 Old 03-01-2012, 01:28 PM
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I like the asprin trick....

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#15 Old 03-01-2012, 02:30 PM
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I like the asprin trick....
would a Caffeine pill make the truck run faster or just stay awake longer??



This is the 1st time i seen the aspirin trick



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#16 Old 03-01-2012, 02:58 PM
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A little viagra, maybe!

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#17 Old 03-01-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by njmike View Post
And for anyone that is daring enough to take off a radiator cap after the vehicle has ran for even a minute... please do so with a few rags between your hands and the cap. At least that way you can control what happens. Your hands may get hot... very hot but at least you can shove the cap back on.
I had that happen on numerous ocasions, always used a rag or 2 to cover and open, never burned, but for somereason the caps' gasket likes to stick to the radiator neck, then woosh, it releases, when you dont expect it

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#18 Old 03-01-2012, 04:12 PM
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A little viagra, maybe!
That would keep it "UP" all night for sure! LOL

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#19 Old 03-02-2012, 06:48 PM
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asprin doesn't contaminate the coolant at all? ( I know, i know, little pill, lots of water) just curious

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