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340dartswinger
 
  Broken Recirculation Door - Posted: 07-31-2011, 11:22 PM
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Post #1

Moved my ac from fresh air to recirculate today and heard a loud snap from the passenger side and realized I had almost no air coming through the vents. I pulled the blower motor out and found the door resting on the blower motor blocking all air flow. So I pulled the broken door out and now I have full air moving through the vents, but with the door missing I'm getting all the hot air from outside and the air isnt getting as cold as it was when I was able to recirculate it.

After I did a quick google search I found some people have been able to replace the door by pulling out the glove box. They make it sound somewhat easy-Have any of you guys done this? Is it pretty easy? What issues will I run into if I just duct tape off the fresh air inlet inside the air box so I am permanenty on recirculate?

Thanks
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 12:14 AM
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Post #2

See if this helps you out ...

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259714

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steev0
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 04:34 PM
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Post #3

Happened to me. gotta take off the glove box and such then take the little motor off for the broken door then pull out this white pin in there that holds the door in (where it should be if it wasnt broken) i went to the dealer and said it was broken and they sold me a whole new unit for like 50 bucks, all i used was the door off of it tho. stuck the door up through the blower motor hole, stuck that white pin back through when i had the door in the correct position then put the little motor back on and put every thing back together. all together it took me about 45 minutes to do it and that is wihtout ever doing something like that before.
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HEMISith
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 04:40 PM
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Post #4

www.heatertreater.net
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340dartswinger
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 04:44 PM
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Post #5

Thanks for the link dmcelhannon, that gives me some good pics.
SteevO, thats what I was hoping to hear. It only took me about 10 min to pull the broke door out, now I just need to go get the new one. How did you make sure the motor/door were in the right position? I noticed that the motor with no door spins 360, I don't want to install the new door and have the motor break it right way because I didn't have it timed right.
Thanks!
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2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport
5.7L Hemi 5spd Auto
Truxedo tonneau cover, Stainless nerf bars, Wade In-Channel vent visors, K&N Drop in filter, Bully locking tailgate handle, Peak Back up Camera,
Hella's behind the "Custom" Gutter Grille, Tinted windows(20%), Cut down (10") antenna
Cooper Discoverer A/T3 275/60-20, Eyelids, LED Tailgate Lightbar, Superchips 3815

1969 Dodge Dart Swinger
360- Edelbrock RPM Heads and Cam, Holley intake and Carb, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, TTI Headers, Full MSD Ignition.
727 Manual reverse pattern trans, 2800 Stall converter.
8 3/4 Auburn posi 3.73's.
Fiberglass Hood and Bumpers, 10pt cage and Dodge Neon bucket seats.
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steev0
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 05:41 PM
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Post #6

honestly i really dont know how i got it right i guess i was lucky haha. i kind of just put it in and its been in for well over a year now and has been fine since then
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04 ram 2500 QC ST 4X4 HEMI

Exterior/Suspension:
5in procomp lift, Carli Adjustable Track Bar, Pure Performance Sway Bar End Links, Bilstein Gas Shocks, 08.5 Steering Upgrade, Moog Ball Joints, 20in Chrome Xd Rockstars on 37/13.5/20 Nitto Mud Grapplers, Color Matched Bushwacker Pocket Style Flares, Carr Hoop Steps, Westin Bull Bar, Cheap Chrome Handle Covers, Recon Clear Cab Lights, 8000k H.I.D. with Recon Projector Headlights, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Recon L.E.D. tail lights

Performance:
Superchips Cortex, Airraid Intake, Magnaflow Muffler, DMH 3in Exhaust cutout, Soon to be 4.56 gears front and rear

Interior:
Doubledin Radio Bezel with Pioneer 4300dvd touchscreen headunit, 2 Jl12w6 subs powered by Hifonics 2000Watt Amp, 0 Gauge Wire Upgrade from alternator to battery and all grounds, Power locks and Windows (finally)
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340dartswinger
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 06:00 PM
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Post #7

Wow, I just went on the heater treater site and they make a nice product, but it is also $129 plus shiping for the 1 door. But they do have a nice pic on their site of the glove box removed for me to look at
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2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport
5.7L Hemi 5spd Auto
Truxedo tonneau cover, Stainless nerf bars, Wade In-Channel vent visors, K&N Drop in filter, Bully locking tailgate handle, Peak Back up Camera,
Hella's behind the "Custom" Gutter Grille, Tinted windows(20%), Cut down (10") antenna
Cooper Discoverer A/T3 275/60-20, Eyelids, LED Tailgate Lightbar, Superchips 3815

1969 Dodge Dart Swinger
360- Edelbrock RPM Heads and Cam, Holley intake and Carb, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, TTI Headers, Full MSD Ignition.
727 Manual reverse pattern trans, 2800 Stall converter.
8 3/4 Auburn posi 3.73's.
Fiberglass Hood and Bumpers, 10pt cage and Dodge Neon bucket seats.
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Doug D
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 07:59 PM
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Post #8

Quote:
Originally Posted by 340dartswinger View Post
I noticed that the motor with no door spins 360, I don't want to install the new door and have the motor break it right way because I didn't have it timed right.
Thanks!
The HVAC computer that controls the doors recalibrates so it knows where the "stop" points (full open and full close) are. Unfortunately, that's how over time all the doors will eventually fail. The stop pins on the doors are plastic and will eventually crack and break. The recirc door and mode 2 door (controls the floor/defrost vents) are broken on mine.
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eaton
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 10:00 PM
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Post #9

X2 on the heater treater stuff. I had two doors broken on my 06', so i just replaced all of the doors.
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04 1500
 
 Posted: 08-01-2011, 11:08 PM
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Post #10

I just ened a self taper screw and screwed the door to the plastic where it closes. its 100 + down here in Tx and my ac was warm. removed motor and found door just laying there. I screwed it in the close position and ac is cold again.
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