1985 ram d150 royal se prospector questions - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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rat rod dodge
 
  Talking 1985 ram d150 royal se prospector questions - Posted: 02-10-2011, 09:50 AM
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Post #1

i'm recently a proud owner of a 85 ram, with a 2 brl 318. i paid $925 for it from a pawn shop. only major problems i have are it smokes on start up, has oil leak { i'm thinking timing cover ** i've replaced the shocks, tires, passanger side fender, tune up, oil change. i'm just using spay paint to paint it. anyway, i still have a few questions to ask if someone can help.
1. the passanger side door will not stay completly closed unless you slam it. i've tried shims, ajusting stricker, ???
2. fan for heater barely blows. i put in a new motor' still the same.
3. 99% of the time truck starts & runs no problem, other times it wants to die as soon as possible, & at every stop sign & light. leave alone for a few minutes it'll start up no problem. doesn't matter if it is hot, or cold outside.
4. if i decide to put a newer bed on it [ just so i can buy accesories for it ]. what year would be best?
5.i am also looking for a bench seat for it [ it has a beige, yellowis interior ]

thanks for looking & any and all help. alva
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rat rod dodge
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 09:55 AM
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Post #2

also, 6.what size rear brakes? 3 different sizes from parts store.
7. they also say 2 different size u-joints
thanks again
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Delray Dude
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 12:48 PM
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440 and a 4 speed
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Post #3

1. possible the hinges are worn - need new ones or re-bushed.

2. could be that the ducting is cracked / mia / clogged with debris

3. number of things most likely carb related - stuck choke - vapor lock - stuck float

4. Any from 1980 to 1992 will work - all the same until they changed body style

5. keep my eyes peeled

6. need to measure - could be any of them - most likely the middle or small grade with the 318 package - but anything is possible - pull wheel off, remove drum and measure the diameter of the drum.

7. could be either. really depends upon the transmission you have - would be larger if you have a 727 and 4 speed overdrive and smaller if a 904.
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rat rod dodge
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 01:08 PM
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Post #4

how can i find out what size transmission?
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Delray Dude
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 01:13 PM
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Post #5

easiest way is to crawl underneath it and look at it. The transmission pans are different. The 904 is basically rectangular with a dog ear on the drivers side back corner.

If I remember correctly the 727 pan has a few curves in it - especially where the dipstick meets up on hte passenger side front. Not sure on that - haven't looked at one lately.

Sometimes you can see it in the bellhousing casting - a-727 or 904 (sometimes it's a 999 also) but best way is to ID it by the pan
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Delray Dude
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 01:16 PM
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Post #6

if you look at this link:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performa...oductId=753058


that is what a 727 pan looks like.


The pan pic they show at jegs for the 904 is not correct - it's the same picture showing the 727 pan.
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rat rod dodge
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 01:22 PM
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Post #7

thanks for the help. its been great since i've had it. much better than my '96 1500
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volaredon
 
 Posted: 02-10-2011, 04:53 PM
older trucks ARE better!
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Post #8

if it IS a D 150 the brakes will be 11X2.5; they show the 12" brakes in the catalog but I have no idea why; these were D 250-D350 parts; measure the drum "open side up" with a tape measure and that will tell. yours is a 5 lug wheel? then it is a 150 series. and what I said will hold true.
and yes, my 83 D 250 is 10 times the truck my 97 1500 was, too.
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earlp8
 
 Posted: 02-24-2011, 07:46 PM
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Post #9

my d150 is 10 in so only way for sure to tell is measure the drums
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charlie1935
 
 Posted: 02-24-2011, 08:10 PM
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Post #10

Tranny ID.
727 --------------- 904
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 727.jpg (1.8 KB, 137 views)
File Type: jpg 904.jpg (1.9 KB, 136 views)
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87 D100 318 auto. stock


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volaredon
 
 Posted: 02-24-2011, 10:12 PM
older trucks ARE better!
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Post #11

and measure inside where the shoes ride not edge to edge. Yeah there wewe a frw yrs that had 10" brakes back around 80-81; I forget exactly what yr but around 84-5 they quit putting 10" brakes on the 100s/150s.
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the new ones make me want to
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bookworm
 
 Posted: 02-26-2011, 05:54 AM
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Post #12

The door problem may very well be a bad latch. The part inside the door. Sometimes you can take it out, clean & re-lube (white lithium grease works very well), reinstall and it works. Other times it's so worn that it's junk.
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yarddogg77
 
 Posted: 03-02-2011, 02:06 PM
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Post #13

My truck used to have the same trouble dying every chance it got. Felt like a ghost in there. It could be a number of things. Dirty carb, bad timing, etc.. With my truck it was actually a bad coil. It would start fine and run for a bit, then either die, or start cutting out, then it would die. I would let the coil cool down for a bit, then it would start and run again. The problem got consistently worse until it would no longer stay running. Something to consider if you rule out the other stuff.

Heater fan. I still have the same trouble. I've replaced the switch and motor, still blows weak. I'm suspecting the resistor now, it's the only thing I haven't replaced. I believe it's mounted on top of the duct and inline between the blower motor and switch. Can anyone confirm this? Cause I'd like to know for sure too.

The door not shutting. I agree with cleaning the latch box on it. Mine was all crusted up and was not working well until I cleaned it and used white lithium grease. Works like brand new now.
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Last edited by yarddogg77 : 03-02-2011 at 02:11 PM.
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jcmower2
 
  re: 85 D150 - Posted: 03-26-2011, 11:02 AM
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Post #14

I've got one just like it. I drive it 40 miles every day round trip to work. I augmented the manual fuel pump with a low pressure electric and put in a pressure regulator. I put in a 3" single exhaust from the manifolds back. I kept the stock manifolds, removed the A.I.R. tubes and sealed the holes. I also rebuilt the Holly 2bbl. Everything else is stock. I do need to do the steering coupler but it is not serious yet. I really love this truck. The bigger exhaust really helped with low end torque and it sounds cool to It starts every time even in very cold weather, takes little warm up time and gives reasonable mpg's. (reasonable is about 14) Take care of it and it will take care of you. My next project after the coupler will be a switch to HEI and possibly a switch to 4bbl.
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82ram150
 
 Posted: 03-26-2011, 04:23 PM
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Post #15

Hey just my 2 cents on the heater. Check your heater box!! Mine blew fine but it had a musty smell i cut open the heater box and it was crammed full of 29 years worth of leaves, pine needles, the little helicopter seed things, insulation, dirt, you name it.
This is what it looked like


I just took my dremel and a small cut off wheel and cut out a piece i actually made it a little bigger after the pic. Then after i cleaned it out. used a piece of sheet metal and some screws and covered it up and painted it to match.

CAUTION: DO NOT DO THE ABOVE IF YOU WANT TO KEEP THE FACTORY LOOK.

I take no reponsibility for what you do to your heater box.

If you want to do it the other way take the whole box out and take the top off. Which may involve removal of the dash. Good Luck!
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Interior mods: a/c vents yellow, door panels black, bed lined floor, cobra cb, carpet insulation and autozone carpet.

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coastermeister
 
 Posted: 03-26-2011, 04:25 PM
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Post #16

Quote:
Originally Posted by rat rod dodge View Post
2. fan for heater barely blows. i put in a new motor' still the same.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yarddogg77 View Post
Heater fan. I still have the same trouble. I've replaced the switch and motor, still blows weak. I'm suspecting the resistor now, it's the only thing I haven't replaced. I believe it's mounted on top of the duct and inline between the blower motor and switch. Can anyone confirm this? Cause I'd like to know for sure too.
The blower resistor only comes into play with blower speeds less than high. On the high setting the blower is getting full 12 volts. The resistor acts as a voltage divider and reduces the voltage to the motor on medium and low. The resistor is mounted inside the air plenum near the blower fan cage and requires air from the fan for cooling otherwise it burns out. You could pull the power connection at the motor and carefully jumper power and ground directly from the battery to the motor which should give you full speed. You could have a bad switch or a poor ground connection. Could also be clogged per the post above. I just cut away a few of the louvers on the return grate to be able to get a small shop vac nozzle inside to suck out the crud.
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rat rod dodge
 
  Cool thanks for the help - Posted: 03-26-2011, 10:45 PM
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Post #17

thanks for the help everyone.
i'll use this info and more on my
new toy: '83 dodge ram d-150
custom. $500 at a pawn shop,
thought i'd use as a parts truck,
but its in better shape than my '85
it doesn't smoke or an oil leak, doors
shut. so far all that needs fixing
are u-joints, carb air leaks (had
no breather on it. got cheap after
market for now) new tires. my
only ? is did they change bolt
paterns on the wheels between
83 & 85? tried to switch out &
83 is smaller. what wheel patern
is the 83?
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rat rod dodge
 
  Cool thanks for the help - Posted: 03-26-2011, 10:54 PM
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Post #18

thanks for the help everyone.
i'll use this info and more on my
new toy: '83 dodge ram d-150
custom. $500 at a pawn shop,
thought i'd use as a parts truck,
but its in better shape than my '85
it doesn't smoke or an oil leak, doors
shut. so far all that needs fixing
are u-joints, carb air leaks (had
no breather on it. got cheap after
market for now) new tires. my
only ? is did they change bolt
paterns on the wheels between
83 & 85? tried to switch out &
83 is smaller. what wheel patern
is the 83?
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volaredon
 
 Posted: 03-26-2011, 10:59 PM
older trucks ARE better!
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Post #19

what are you gonna do w/ the 85 now?
Yeah they switched bolt patterns 85 was the 1st yr for the larger bolt pattren, 5 on 5-1/2; the 83 will be 5 on 4-1/2 if a 1/2 ton same as any RWD Mopar car or Ford RWD car (though Ford rim center holes where they go on the hub are smaller than Dodge)
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sorry; they will be prying my "old" truck from my cold, dead, fingers!
the new ones make me want to
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rat rod dodge
 
 Posted: 03-26-2011, 11:26 PM
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Post #20

my brothers church needed a truck
so i sold it to him for $300 to fix
it up & use. also when i went to
buy u-joints for the 83, they asked
is it 2 joint or 3 joint, i don't know
the difference, unless they mean
a carier bearing
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