How To: Replace the EGR Valve on the 5.7 Hemi (P0406)

This was performed on a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4X4 with the 5.7L Hemi.

I imagine it is the same for any truck with a Hemi but I can't say for certain.

CHECKING THE ERROR CODE:

My check engine light came on at 62,000 miles. I used the following steps to check the code and determine what the problem was.

1. Insert the key into the ignition.
2. Turn the key from OFF to the ON position (just before the start position) and back to the OFF position 3 times as rapidly as possible.
3. On the third switch to the ON position leave the key in the ON position. The odometer will then flash any codes the computer is giving.

In this case my odometer showed P0406.

I then went to Google, looked up the code and found it was the code for a bad EGR Valve. There are many ways to deal with a bad EGR valve found on Google, some say to clean it, some say to replace it. I had to do both.

TO REMOVE THE AIRBOX:

First remove the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket with extension and set it aside so it is not touching any metal part of the truck.

The EGR valve is located on the left side (facing the front of the truck) of the engine block just after the spark plugs and looks like this.



I found it much easier to get to the valve after removing the airbox.



Remove the cover of the airbox by unsnapping the clips on the outer edges. Be careful to hold on to the clips. They are designed to stay attached to the lower half of the box but two of mine popped out and fell down into the engine bay which led to a fun search to locate them and but them back on the box.

Once the top is removed use a screwdriver to hold it out of the way.



Once the top of the airbox is out of the way you can remove the lower half of the airbox by simply pulling up on the box. There are no screws or clips attaching the lower half of the box to the truck, just rubber grommets on four plastic posts.



Now that the airbox is out of the way you will have a much clearer view of the EGR Valve along with much better access.



continued...

TO REMOVE THE EGR VALVE:

First you have to remove the electonic plug-in from the top of the valve. There is a red clip on the top of the plug-in that needs to be slid to the far side to remove the plug. One side of the red clip is taller than the other, use a flat tip screwdriver on the taller side to slide the clip toward that side. Once the clip is all the way to the right you can unplug the plug.



Next you have to remove the exhaust line running from the valve to the back of the throttle body. There are two bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the lower part of the EGR valve, the bolts can easily be removed with a 8mm socket with an extension. If they are stuck use some PR Blaster on them, mine came off easily. Make sure to hold onto the gasket that is between the pipe and the valve when removing the pipe.



Now there are two 10mm bolts holding the valve onto the side of the engine block. They are tough to see so feel around the bottom of the valve until you find them. I used a 10mm socket with an extension to remove them. There is a metal gasket between the valve and the engine block, make sure to hold on to the gasket as you take the valve off.

You should now have a dirty valve removed.



TO CLEAN THE EGR VALVE:

Lots of people advise that you can clean the carbon out of the valve and it will likely work again if reinstalled. They recommend to soak the valve in carb cleaner, I tried this method and failed.



I filled a cup with carb cleaner and soaked the valve for 5 hours. I then scrubbed every part I could get to with a toothbrush. I got a lot of carbon junk out of it but ultimately my valve still wouldn't work.



I then reinstalled the valve and the check engine light came on again after 20 miles with the same code for a bad EGR valve.

I have found sources who say to completely dissassemble the valve to clean it out, I didn't try that as I wasn't sure how to and I didn't trust myself to put it back together correctly.

Rather I ordered a new valve from US Auto Parts for $60 shipped. When the new valve arrived I removed the valve I attempted to clean and installed the new valve along with the new gaskets they send. I have gone 200 miles so far and no check engine light.

Once the new or cleaned valve is installed, remove the positive battery cable from the battery so that both cables are removed and wait 5-10 minutes. This should reset the computer so it doesn't continue to give the error code.

Hook the battery back up and enjoy CEL free driving!

If I left anything out or if you have any questions, post or PM me and I'll edit the article.

THE END

Mine has 61,000 and just hit the code this week. Good timing for me. I got the new valve from Checker for $43.00. Putting it on now.

Thanks for the photos and lesson. It really helps

OK so it was not a 15 min.job.

Even tho I had taken it slow and in a little then out again... While removing the EGR.. You guessed it.
Snaped a bolt. The good news is, it was the one that holds the exhaust pipe on. Not the ERG to the block. So the broken (now) stud gets thrown out with the bad EGR.
Funny thing. Checker.. I mean O'Reilly sold me the new EGR with 2 new bolts for the block. But none for the exhaust pipe. Which are smaller and weaker.
Of course I had to make another trip back to O'Reilly. And another $3.00 . They had the right thread size.. But I had to grind off about 1/8" so I did not bottom out.

Cleared the error code by turning on and off 3 times with the key.
Only time will tell if that error stays out.

2nd pic is the card from bolt package. just in case anyone might need the size.