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MONKYMAN
 
  Front wheel bearing/hub replacement How-To (PICTURES) - Posted: 10-16-2010, 10:08 AM
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Post #1

Well i replaced my drivers side front hub/bearing assembly a few months back but the passenger side was still fine.
Until now. I just bought a new assembly for the passenger side today since it was making noise and there was play in the wheel. So ill be writing a how to on replacing it today.
Dont you just love those new shiny hubs?!
I bought Timken replacements. $117 from autozone each.
__________________
2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.

Last edited by MONKYMAN : 10-16-2010 at 01:12 PM.
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 12:46 PM
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Post #2

Quote:
Originally Posted by MONKYMAN View Post
Well i replaced my drivers side front hub/bearing assembly a few months back but the passenger side was still fine.
Until now. I just bought a new assembly for the passenger side today since it was making noise and there was play in the wheel. So ill be writing a how to on replacing it today.
Dont you just love those new shiny hubs?!
I bought Timken replacements. $117 from autozone each.
Yeah the new hubs are really nice, I didn't get the Timken, but got the O'reilly brand with a lifetime warranty. Hardest part was trying to find a place to buy the stupid 32mm socket to get the nuts un-done. I had to use my 3ft breaker bar WITH my floor jack handle on it to break them loose lol.
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1999 Dakota R/T
Interior fully Dynamatted, B&M Hammer Shifter, 2" DJM Coils, Sir Michaels Roll Pan & Handle Relocator, '69 Camaro chin spoiler, K&N FIPK, Spintech Headers and full side exit exhaust, Mopar Performance PCM, Viper E-fan w/ Painless performance temp controller, F&B 52mm T-body, Mopar M1 2BBL intake, 180* T-stat, Dual A-pillar pod w/ AEM Wideband, AEM trans temp gauge, stock smoked tails, Clear corners and headlights with Morimoto mini projectors 6K HID and 3k fogs 20" Boss 330 wheels, Cal-Tracs, SRT-4 Seats, Performance built transmission with 2500 stall, Hotchkis sway bars, Energy Suspension poly bushing set.

Awaiting install: Hotchkis leaf springs, C-notch, Viper front brakes, Innovations Pro Sport Tonneau.

SCT Tuned by Hemifever!

Hopefully in the future...
408, 4.10 gears, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Rear disc conversion, cowl or shaker hood and more as I think of them.

My Project
1972 Dart Swinger Special
and eventually a 1978 Dodge D-100 Adventurer standard cab short bed W/ a 440!

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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 01:09 PM
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Post #3

Okay so here is my How-to on how to change the front wheel hubs on dakotas. Everyone feel free to correct anything I missed because i want to post this in the Dakota How-to Forum

First thing you need to do is get the parts and tools. We will start with the tools.
1. 3/8 socket wrench
2. 3/8 drive 7mm hex key (allen head socket)
3. Flat head screwdriver (for pulling the brake caliper clip off of the spindle)
4. 3/4in impact socket (Lug nuts)
5. Any extensions that you may want
6. 36mm socket for hub nut
7. 1/2in drive torque wrench (capable of 185lb-ft)
8. I would recommend a pair of working gloves such as craftsman. (Hot brakes are not fun to touch)
9. Paper towels (lint free preferred)
10. Contact cleaner (To clean brake rotor before putting back on)
11. Impact gun (optional)











Okay so now that we got the tools we need parts!
1. Hub, wheel bearing assembly. I got a timken assembly from Autozone for $117 before tax.
2. Hub nut. (This is a one time use part. NEVER REUSE OLD ONES! $15.50 at dodge dealer.)







Okay so here comes the fun part! Doing the work.

1. Using a floor jack lift the front of the vehicle until the wheels come off of the ground.
2. Support the vehicle with a jack stand.
3. Remove any lug-nut covers
4. Remove the lug-nuts and wheel.
5. Remove the caliper using either a 7mm allen head socket or allen wrench. (there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle)
Caliper bolts shown here. One upper and one lower.



6. After removing the caliper you are ready to remove the hub nut. I used my impact wrench but a breaker bar works just fine. (36mm socket)



7. Remove the hub assembly. It will simply slide off.(give it a nice shake so you can hear how toast it really is. Mine rattled like crazy!)



(On a side note... While you have the caliper off look at the spindle where the brake pads contact it. If there are any grooves I would sand them down as much as possible because they can cause the pads to hang up.)


8. So now that you have the hub off of the spindle take a look at the shaft and clean any oil, grease or debris off using a good contact cleaner. Brake cleaner works very well.

Time for the new parts!







9. Wipe all of the grease/oil off of the hub that was put there in the package. especially the inside (part that slides onto the spindle)

10. Slide the new hub onto the spindle.
11. Install the new hub nut using a socket wrench. (probably not a good idea to use the impact to install it)


12. After you have it snugged down grab that torque wrench. (185lb-ft is what it needs to be cranked to)



13. It is very hard to crank it this tight so make sure your vehicle is supported on the jackstand! Try and torque it as smoothly as possible. Jerking it will only give you a false reading on the torque wrench. It will click or deflect but it will not actually be torqued correctly. (consider using your leg and standing on the wrench if you cant put enough force on it regularly. REMEMBER Smooth motion)



14. Make sure it spins freely.
15. Clean brake caliper with contact cleaner and reinstall
16. Install the caliper with the 7mm allen bolts
17. Dont forget about that brake pad spring! Pop it back over the spindle.
18. Spin the whole assembly and make sure it is good to go.
19. Install the wheel.
20. Lower the vehicle and torque the wheel down (110lb-ft is what light trucks should be torqued to. Thats what ive heard and I torque mine to)
21. Put any lug cover back in place
22. YOUR DONE!!! WOOT WOOT!


Take it for a spin and admire your quiet front wheel.
__________________
2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 01:11 PM
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Post #4

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartBoy01 View Post
Yeah the new hubs are really nice, I didn't get the Timken, but got the O'reilly brand with a lifetime warranty. Hardest part was trying to find a place to buy the stupid 32mm socket to get the nuts un-done. I had to use my 3ft breaker bar WITH my floor jack handle on it to break them loose lol.
32mm? Huh i think mine said 36 that I used. Ill go check it again.
Mine popped right off with my ingersoll rand impact. It has like 600+ Lb-ft of torque in reverse haha! The first one i did was with a breaker bar though! OMG so hard to get off! I jumped on the stupid thing haha.

36mm 12point socket does fit a little loose. But i think that a 32 would be way too small. Not sure though. I dont have any other sockets that large to try haha!
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.

Last edited by MONKYMAN : 10-16-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 11:53 PM
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Post #5

Quote:
Originally Posted by MONKYMAN View Post
32mm? Huh i think mine said 36 that I used. Ill go check it again.
Mine popped right off with my ingersoll rand impact. It has like 600+ Lb-ft of torque in reverse haha! The first one i did was with a breaker bar though! OMG so hard to get off! I jumped on the stupid thing haha.

36mm 12point socket does fit a little loose. But i think that a 32 would be way too small. Not sure though. I dont have any other sockets that large to try haha!
Yeah my bad, I was in a hurry to leave and just thought it was a 32mm (I got to go see the viewing for the new Nitro Circus movie ), but mine is actually a 35mm 6 point socket, and it fits perfectly. The other question I had is what are the brake caliper springs? Because I don't remember there being anything like that when I got my truck lol.
__________________

1999 Dakota R/T
Interior fully Dynamatted, B&M Hammer Shifter, 2" DJM Coils, Sir Michaels Roll Pan & Handle Relocator, '69 Camaro chin spoiler, K&N FIPK, Spintech Headers and full side exit exhaust, Mopar Performance PCM, Viper E-fan w/ Painless performance temp controller, F&B 52mm T-body, Mopar M1 2BBL intake, 180* T-stat, Dual A-pillar pod w/ AEM Wideband, AEM trans temp gauge, stock smoked tails, Clear corners and headlights with Morimoto mini projectors 6K HID and 3k fogs 20" Boss 330 wheels, Cal-Tracs, SRT-4 Seats, Performance built transmission with 2500 stall, Hotchkis sway bars, Energy Suspension poly bushing set.

Awaiting install: Hotchkis leaf springs, C-notch, Viper front brakes, Innovations Pro Sport Tonneau.

SCT Tuned by Hemifever!

Hopefully in the future...
408, 4.10 gears, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Rear disc conversion, cowl or shaker hood and more as I think of them.

My Project
1972 Dart Swinger Special
and eventually a 1978 Dodge D-100 Adventurer standard cab short bed W/ a 440!

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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-17-2010, 01:00 AM
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Post #6

The spring 8I was talking about is the one that goes from the outer brake pad over the spindle. Its like a leaf spring type
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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DodgeOrDie97
 
 Posted: 10-17-2010, 10:33 AM
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Post #7

good how to buddy I learned from it.
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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-17-2010, 11:38 AM
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Post #8

I'm gonna start doing more of these kinds or threads. Super fun!!
And perfect I hope lots of people learn how from this
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 10-17-2010, 11:00 PM
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Post #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by MONKYMAN View Post
The spring 8I was talking about is the one that goes from the outer brake pad over the spindle. Its like a leaf spring type
Oh ok, I was worried a previous owner took something off and didn't put it back on. Great How-to man!
__________________

1999 Dakota R/T
Interior fully Dynamatted, B&M Hammer Shifter, 2" DJM Coils, Sir Michaels Roll Pan & Handle Relocator, '69 Camaro chin spoiler, K&N FIPK, Spintech Headers and full side exit exhaust, Mopar Performance PCM, Viper E-fan w/ Painless performance temp controller, F&B 52mm T-body, Mopar M1 2BBL intake, 180* T-stat, Dual A-pillar pod w/ AEM Wideband, AEM trans temp gauge, stock smoked tails, Clear corners and headlights with Morimoto mini projectors 6K HID and 3k fogs 20" Boss 330 wheels, Cal-Tracs, SRT-4 Seats, Performance built transmission with 2500 stall, Hotchkis sway bars, Energy Suspension poly bushing set.

Awaiting install: Hotchkis leaf springs, C-notch, Viper front brakes, Innovations Pro Sport Tonneau.

SCT Tuned by Hemifever!

Hopefully in the future...
408, 4.10 gears, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Rear disc conversion, cowl or shaker hood and more as I think of them.

My Project
1972 Dart Swinger Special
and eventually a 1978 Dodge D-100 Adventurer standard cab short bed W/ a 440!

View Public ProfileSend a private message to %1$sSend email to %1$sFind all posts by %1$sAdd %1$s to Your Buddy List Reply Reply With Quote

MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-17-2010, 11:07 PM
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Post #10

HAHAHA Dude i know exactly what you mean! The previous owner of my truck had someone install a remote start/alarm setup and then had it removed. every now and then i will find something out of place and have to fix it. So much junk was left under the dash! Cut wires and grounds sticking out. transmitters etc... Its nice having 5 friends with dakotas because I just go look at theirs.

Thanks man! I say we all start atleast taking pictures of working on our trucks. I want to get more people on this site!
And I just realized you said you got to see a viewing of a new nitro circus movie? What the heck man! You should have flown down here to get me then I could have come! So NOT COOL haha
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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sno jetter
 
 Posted: 10-24-2010, 06:05 PM
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Post #11

wow dude your trucks got like no rust on it, guess thats another benifit of not living in ny.....
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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-24-2010, 09:58 PM
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Post #12

Yup not a spec one of the great benefits of living in the dry hot arizona desert! Although the under side of my truck is pretty dang dirty like most.
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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