v6 3.9 cam swap or 1.7RR - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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156TYSON
 
  v6 3.9 cam swap or 1.7RR - Posted: 10-13-2010, 08:03 PM
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Post #1

thinking about doing a cam swap in my dakota, does anyone know the stock cam lift?, or even better the max lift the springs can wistand before any chance of failure? not sure on my lift yet(^^) but i am thinking 232/236 dur (i want a choppy idle) most indefinatly a custom grind comp cam. also i will not be going over 500 lift i guess. do you guys think the stock computer can handle this? and the rest of the internals?

sorry for all the questions, im hoping someone can atleast awnser one lol.
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97' dakota, sb, rc, 360 mag, 5 speed, 3.91's posi, Comp cams 214/220, headers, duals, air gap dome, 650 holley, MP igniton

94' dakota, lb, rc, 3.9l 5 speed 4x4 -sold

88' Gran Fury/ Caravelle, 318, sum-6901 cam, 600 holley, ld4b dome, long tube headers, duals, trans-go shift kit, MP ignition
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 10-13-2010, 11:27 PM
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Post #2

Well your definitely gonna have to go with a custom ground cam. I can't think of what the safest you could go for lift is, or if it's the same for the 3.9 to 5.9 but think it would be close. One thing with trying to get a really choppy idle is that your computer won't like it that much, and that will cause a problem if you have emissions testing. If your definitely gonna go with a cam with as much lift as possible than you probably want to go with some 1.6 RR, unless you plan to spend even more money later on once you figure out you'll have too much lift out of both the cam and lifters.
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1999 Dakota R/T
Interior fully Dynamatted, B&M Hammer Shifter, 2" DJM Coils, Sir Michaels Roll Pan & Handle Relocator, '69 Camaro chin spoiler, K&N FIPK, Spintech Headers and full side exit exhaust, Mopar Performance PCM, Viper E-fan w/ Painless performance temp controller, F&B 52mm T-body, Mopar M1 2BBL intake, 180* T-stat, Dual A-pillar pod w/ AEM Wideband, AEM trans temp gauge, stock smoked tails, Clear corners and headlights with Morimoto mini projectors 6K HID and 3k fogs 20" Boss 330 wheels, Cal-Tracs, SRT-4 Seats, Performance built transmission with 2500 stall, Hotchkis sway bars, Energy Suspension poly bushing set.

Awaiting install: Hotchkis leaf springs, C-notch, Viper front brakes, Innovations Pro Sport Tonneau.

SCT Tuned by Hemifever!

Hopefully in the future...
408, 4.10 gears, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Rear disc conversion, cowl or shaker hood and more as I think of them.

My Project
1972 Dart Swinger Special
and eventually a 1978 Dodge D-100 Adventurer standard cab short bed W/ a 440!

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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-14-2010, 03:26 AM
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Post #3

The problem you will have going to a radical cam is idle. It is super hard to get them to idle correctly. But what you do to fix that is take the map sensor and plug that vacuum line into the intake manifold to get it to idle correctly.

I am fairly positive there are a few different cams out there for the 3.9 but havent looked since i owned one. I would probably do the rockers first if i were you.
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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156TYSON
 
 Posted: 10-14-2010, 07:59 AM
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Post #4

yeah I am thinking about doing 1.7RR but i am not sure how much of a noticable diffrence they will make, i could spend the $350 on a cam instead. i don't have emmisions here, but i have seen a few videos on youtube of the same dak as mine. he had a 218/224 i think, but his had some chop but idled fine.
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97' dakota, sb, rc, 360 mag, 5 speed, 3.91's posi, Comp cams 214/220, headers, duals, air gap dome, 650 holley, MP igniton

94' dakota, lb, rc, 3.9l 5 speed 4x4 -sold

88' Gran Fury/ Caravelle, 318, sum-6901 cam, 600 holley, ld4b dome, long tube headers, duals, trans-go shift kit, MP ignition
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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 10:14 AM
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Post #5

Oh thats true! Well if you have the time, tools and know how on changing the cam I would maybe do the cam first then. So far the internals of my engine are stock but I would love a new cam! Get that nice overlap in the idle! Ahh thinking about it makes me drool!

Do you have a full exhaust system yet? Header back? I would probably do that before the cam swap. I just did headers in my truck and it was probably one of my best mods I have done to the truck.
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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156TYSON
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 10:22 AM
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Post #6

well i haven't ever changed out a cam before, i have seen it done a few times... i worked part time at a small engine shop for over the last year and have done my fair share of engine rebuilds at home. im not afraid to tear it apart is what im getting at. will i need any special tools?

also i have a cherrybomb turbo and a partially gutted cat... no i havent done headers yet nor the true duals. is there much of a seat in your pants feel with the headers and true duals or would there be more with the 1.7RR?
__________________
97' dakota, sb, rc, 360 mag, 5 speed, 3.91's posi, Comp cams 214/220, headers, duals, air gap dome, 650 holley, MP igniton

94' dakota, lb, rc, 3.9l 5 speed 4x4 -sold

88' Gran Fury/ Caravelle, 318, sum-6901 cam, 600 holley, ld4b dome, long tube headers, duals, trans-go shift kit, MP ignition
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 12:43 PM
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Post #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by 156TYSON View Post
Is there much of a seat in your pants feel with the headers and true duals or would there be more with the 1.7RR?
Probably not as noticeable as it would be with a V8, but I've heard of both things giving half the people saying yes, and the other half saying no. The only true way to tell is either a dyno, or running it down the strip.
__________________

1999 Dakota R/T
Interior fully Dynamatted, B&M Hammer Shifter, 2" DJM Coils, Sir Michaels Roll Pan & Handle Relocator, '69 Camaro chin spoiler, K&N FIPK, Spintech Headers and full side exit exhaust, Mopar Performance PCM, Viper E-fan w/ Painless performance temp controller, F&B 52mm T-body, Mopar M1 2BBL intake, 180* T-stat, Dual A-pillar pod w/ AEM Wideband, AEM trans temp gauge, stock smoked tails, Clear corners and headlights with Morimoto mini projectors 6K HID and 3k fogs 20" Boss 330 wheels, Cal-Tracs, SRT-4 Seats, Performance built transmission with 2500 stall, Hotchkis sway bars, Energy Suspension poly bushing set.

Awaiting install: Hotchkis leaf springs, C-notch, Viper front brakes, Innovations Pro Sport Tonneau.

SCT Tuned by Hemifever!

Hopefully in the future...
408, 4.10 gears, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Rear disc conversion, cowl or shaker hood and more as I think of them.

My Project
1972 Dart Swinger Special
and eventually a 1978 Dodge D-100 Adventurer standard cab short bed W/ a 440!

View Public ProfileSend a private message to %1$sSend email to %1$sFind all posts by %1$sAdd %1$s to Your Buddy List Reply Reply With Quote

MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 10-16-2010, 06:30 PM
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Post #8

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartBoy01 View Post
Probably not as noticeable as it would be with a V8, but I've heard of both things giving half the people saying yes, and the other half saying no. The only true way to tell is either a dyno, or running it down the strip.
I agree probably not as much of a difference as a v8 would have but of course some.
Doing the cam vs the rockers though...
Doing the rockers you need to remove the valve covers and then the rockers. Very easy!
Doing the cam you have to remove the alternator, bracket, water pump and everything in the way of the timing cover. Then you still have to remove the rocker arms so that when you turn the cam the lifters will stay in the block and not fall out. Probably the push rods need to be removed too. Then the timing set needs to be removed so you can get the cam out. Now keep in mind this is only if the lifters done fall into the engine. If they don't then its simply installing the new cam and putting everything back together. But if a lifter falls into the engine then now you have to remove the intake manifold and some other crap to get the lifters back into place.

But if you are confident that you can get it back together and index the cam tear it up man! I've done cam swaps in chevys and its not hard at all just time consuming.
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: SRT-4 Seats, K&N FIPK, Holley 52mm Throttle Body, Superchips 3715, 4.10 Gears, Viper Fan, 180* T-Stat, Hooker Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 50 Dumped, Lowered 2/5 with Nitro Drop Shocks, CalTracs, Boss 330's, Nitto 420s tires, Shaved Tailgate, Grant Kustoms Weld-in Rollpan.
Stereo:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB, Pioneer Premier 6 3/4 components, Pioneer Premier 6x9 Premier 800x4 amp driving speakers, MTX Thunderform Box with 2 10" Shallow Premier subs.
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