'07 QCSB, Flame Red 5.7 4x4 SLT
Internal: Custom Cam, 180 T-Stat - Intake: Ported Throttle Body, K&N Filter - Exhaust: Edelbrock Shorties, Magnaflow Y Pipe, Raceland Cutout, Dumped Gibson Catback
Tuning & Monitoring: SuperChimps, Aeroforce Interceptor w/ afr
Suspension & Tires:
Lift: 6" Suspension, 3" Body Lift - Wheels: Custom Painted BMF S.O.T.A.s, 37" Trail Grapplers, Mopar Wheel Well Liners
Bed: Leer 100XQ Shell, Line-x XTRA, Defender Roof Rack - Other: SRT Hood, Bushwacker Pocket Flares,Tow Mirrors, Nerf Bars, 2500 Tow Hooks, Shorty Antenna, Tactical Grill
Tunes: Kenwood DDX512, Infinity Reference Speakers, Kicker 10" Sub, Kicker 400.1 Amp, FoxBox - Video: 10.4" TFT-LCD Flip-down Overhead Monitor, R Cam, Chuck Norris Kicked My Ass
Led Tails, Smoked Cab Lights, 4x VisionX 180w, Hella 500's
Welcome to DT jamieperry86 - as you can see, the joking and razzing starts early around here!
Good luck in getting your Ram fixed!
DodgeTalk Moderator / Official DodgeTalk Supporter
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All jokes aside, when was the last time you reset your computer?
1973 RCLB Stroker SB
REBUILD BLOG - radio1973dodge.blogspot.com
- Longtravel suspension still being built, Grabber 35" MT's, Method Wheels, 4.10's.
- Custom dash/gauge cluster, Corbeau seats, dual electric fans, most of the wiring replaced, 7" HID's, lots of other flashy and bright lights
- Fuel cell, aluminum rad, rear tranny cooler, front and rear tube bumpers, cut rear rockers and cage work ready to get started on.
'03 1500 QCSB Hemi
Vent shades/15% tint
A.R.E. Tonneau/Bed Rug
Nerf step bars
Rear LED light bar/LED frt. turn signals
LED tails & 3d brake light/White Night backup lamps & LED interior lights
Halos/projector headlights KC HiLites Titanium Driving lights
Tailgate Easy Lift & EZ Down
E&G Classics mesh grill
WeatherTech Floor Liners
Overhead console with HomeLink
JVC KD-AR780 Receiver & CH-X1500 Changer
Jensen 6x9 3-way up frt., 5 1/4" 2-way rear
GenTex auto-dimming mirror & Towing mirrors
Fender liners & Ram splash guards
Silver Truck Club Member #140
S.N.A.T.C.H. Club Member 666-666
2 1/2" level kit
Jetstream Scoop/Power Wire
MagnaFlow Stainless Cat-back SI/DO
TrueFlow intake kit
Hellwig 7651 sway bar
Flex-a-lite Black Magic Extr. 180 Elect. Fan
Dick Cepek Chrome DC-1s/Bridgestone Revo2 285/70
I'd also suggest a dose of Sea Foam. Since you've pretty much covered the "spark" part, fuel and air are next.
2002 RAM 1500 4.7L 4x1 quad cab ST
Prev. 2004.5 RAM 2500 325/600 5.9L
Prev. 2003 ram 1500 quad cab 1x4 slt 5.9l 360
BEWARE I POST FOR THE F@^& OF IT!
if ur not cum'in ur try'in too hard
100,000K+ club member #21
Quad Cab Club #666
Don't TOUCH my truck Club!!!! Member #36
DT MIssissippi Chapter Member # 1
Black 2003 QC SB SLT 4x4 Offroad 5.7L HEMI, Original Owner 3.92 LSD, 260 cam, 6.1 Rods/Springs, Home Ported/Polished Heads, Psc1, 04 Map sensor and Fuel pump assembly, Oil pressure guage, Amsoil, Champs, MSD 8.5MM Full length Wires, Transgo HD w/out resistor, Superchip, 180 T-Stat, K/N 77 Series, Ceramic Flowtech headers with Y-Pipe, Stage 8 locks, Ditched the cat, O2 sensor mod, Jack Rabbit bed cover, Sprayed bed liner, Big Mouth Grill-Black, Blackend Headlights/Tails, Silverstar ultras, Ditched all chrome, Custom 10's sub enclosure, Upgraded 160 amp alt, Window tint, Relocated purge valve, Energy suspension bushings, Rear spring clamps, Rebuilt front suspension, Ditched Sway Bar, Passport 8500 Radar Detector, Ditched the baby seat- kid wasnt mine, Cigarette burn in the seat mod, Debadged, Custom Rewired/Properly Grounded.
The 4.7L is a real good engine if you take care it. There are DT members on here that have more than 200K and still going strong. Two of the most common engine problems are dirty Throttle Bodies and the engine getting too hot. The Dodge trucks are bad about getting an oily tar looking crap on the back of the throttle blade. There’s a ‘How To’ that shows you step by step instructions for cleaning the TB so there no need to cover it here. As for the over heating, you can do a simple test that will answer the big question; is there crack in the engine? The test is the NAPA Cylinder Head and Block Test. You take some of the antifreeze and place it in the test fluid. If the fluid turns blue, you’re not pregnant but there is a problem where exhaust gasses are entering the cooling system. If the truck passes the NAPA test, I’d do a compression and leak down test. This will tell you how tight the engine is throughout.
And here’s the different ways to reset the computer …
The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.
The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.
The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go
... and last. This is from a past DT thread:
You can do what is often called a "hard dump".
We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".
First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.
Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.
Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.
Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)
Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.
If you start a thread, be responsible and post the final outcome.
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just $.02. could be totally off the mark, but figured i can't hurt.....
if you're gonna go, go with a smile!
2014 RAM 3500 CTD CC 4wd DRW BIG HORN in Max Steel - woo woo
2012 Kawasaki ZX 14R
2008 Chrysler T&C Inferno Red
2006 Suzuki S40 in Silver Blue
2011 GSXR750, 2007 FJR1300, 2004 GSXR750, 2002 Suzuki Hayabusa, 2002 Honda VFR Interceptor, 1992 Honda Nighthawk
1970 charger, 1969 Roadrunner, 1969 Dart Swinger, 1968 Charger R/T, 1969 Charger, 1974 Dart, 1973 Duster 340, 1969 Sport Satellite, 1976 1/2ton PW, 1979 LRET, 1976 1/2ton LWB QC D100, 1985 Nissan Maxima, 1989 Acclaim, 1991 Acclaim LX, 2000 Concorde, 1976 PW 3/4 4wd CC LB 440 "the Green Mamba", 2003 Dodge Ram QC "Lone Star Ed, 2006 Chrysler Pacifica, 1993 Honda Accord, 2003 RAM 1500 RC SB 2wd SLT 5.9
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