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jamieperry86
 
  Engine is missing - Posted: 09-29-2010, 12:36 PM
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Post #1

I have a 2002 Dodge ram 4.7 ltr. The problem is when the engine cools down and I start the engine, it misses until the engine warms up to normal driving temps. After the truck reaches the normal driving temp, it runs fine. I have all vaccum lines replaced, new spark plugs, coils and wires, and a new battery. Any ideas what is making it miss when it first starts and the engine has cooled down?
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RubberFrog
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 03:31 PM
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Post #2

Have you looked downstairs?
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0212353
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 03:39 PM
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Post #3

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubberFrog View Post
Have you looked downstairs?


Welcome to DT jamieperry86 - as you can see, the joking and razzing starts early around here!

Good luck in getting your Ram fixed!
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jamieperry86
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 03:40 PM
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Post #4

yea that was no help at all...
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angusdevil
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 04:29 PM
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Post #5

When you find your motor, maybe you'll find your sense of humor too! :P

All jokes aside, when was the last time you reset your computer?
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jamieperry86
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 04:35 PM
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Post #6

I just got the truck from my father-in-law. we hooked it up to the computer and it didn't show any codes. How do you go about resetting the computer? not very familiar with that. could it possibly be the throttle body is messing up?
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 04:40 PM
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Post #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubberFrog View Post
Have you looked downstairs?
I was gonna suggest under the hood, but who'd put one there?
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 04:59 PM
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Post #8

Could be the TB. How many miles? Computer reset is usually pull the "PCM" fuse, get in the truck, close the door and turn the key to run and let all the chiming and dinging to stop. Put the fuse back in and start 'er up. It won't necessarily be an instant fix, but you may notice some improvement.

I'd also suggest a dose of Sea Foam. Since you've pretty much covered the "spark" part, fuel and air are next.
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ladale
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 05:19 PM
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Post #9

i had that problem too, but mine is a 5.9, anyway
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jamieperry86
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 06:03 PM
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Post #10

it has 173k on it so I am going to try that and see what I come up with. Thanks for the help!
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 09-29-2010, 06:31 PM
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Post #11

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieperry86 View Post
it has 173k on it so I am going to try that and see what I come up with. Thanks for the help!
Yeow! That's a heap o' miles. Enjoy the smoke show, and I'll bet it'll help a bunch. You might want to put some Sea Foam in the tank two times in addition to the rest of the treatment. It's almost a given you have some restricted injectors.
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crasher76
 
 Posted: 10-01-2010, 12:48 AM
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Post #12

just wondering if you found it, or if the local fuzz is involved yet?
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 10-01-2010, 01:28 AM
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Post #13

Welcome to DT!



The 4.7L is a real good engine if you take care it. There are DT members on here that have more than 200K and still going strong. Two of the most common engine problems are dirty Throttle Bodies and the engine getting too hot. The Dodge trucks are bad about getting an oily tar looking crap on the back of the throttle blade. There’s a ‘How To’ that shows you step by step instructions for cleaning the TB so there no need to cover it here. As for the over heating, you can do a simple test that will answer the big question; is there crack in the engine? The test is the NAPA Cylinder Head and Block Test. You take some of the antifreeze and place it in the test fluid. If the fluid turns blue, you’re not pregnant but there is a problem where exhaust gasses are entering the cooling system. If the truck passes the NAPA test, I’d do a compression and leak down test. This will tell you how tight the engine is throughout.

And here’s the different ways to reset the computer …
=============================================

The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
----------------------------------------------------------
The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.
=============================================

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sdram03
 
 Posted: 10-01-2010, 12:21 PM
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Post #14

makes me wonder if there is a gasket in the intake system, that is leaking when it's cold and then seals up as it runs. i've seen that happen (not on my vehicles) and it is pretty neat to watch. we just use Carb cleaner, spray it around the intake anywhere there is a gasket (like at the TB to intake seal - but NOT down the actual TB throat), and see what happens. if engine speed/sound changes, then ya found the leak. replace gasket and see how she does.

just $.02. could be totally off the mark, but figured i can't hurt.....
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