MIL P1763 Trans Governor Pressure Sensor High - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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Maveri9720
 
  MIL P1763 Trans Governor Pressure Sensor High - Posted: 06-16-2010, 10:24 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 51
City: Atlanta
State: GA
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Post #1

Hey all, I have a 1998 1500 that has 180,000 on it and I got this MIL P1763 about a week ago. My tranny is now stuck in limp mode and it's horrible. I researched here and tried clearing the PCM, but the code came back within 5 seconds of starting the truck. Next, I disconnected both O2 sensors and reset the PCM to see if that would bring the tranny out of limp mode, due to the O2 sensors sharing the same ground, as researched and recommended on here. No change.

I did come across a TSB for my truck that specifically talks about this code setting and a need to selectively flash the PCM due to a new valve body design which started in Jan 1998.

My question is what should I do next? My next logical option would be to either order a new governor sensor and solenoid and replace them, or take it to a dealership and see if this TSB is my problem. I've read a couple other threads where replacing the sensor and solenoid didn't fix their problem. So I'd like everyone's opinion on what I should do next, b/c I'd hate to waste money on something that doesn't fix this problem.

Thanks for the help. Any questions, please ask. Here's a link to the TSB: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/21-04-00.htm
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Maveri9720
 
 Posted: 06-25-2010, 03:54 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 51
City: Atlanta
State: GA
Status: Offline
Post #2

Just thought I'd update this thread with my findings and provide a how-to for replacing the governor pressure solenoid and switch.

I did go to the dealership and talked with them and found out that they did have a couple trucks come through there prior that had only the 1763 code and doing the TSB PCM flash actually fixed their problem. So I told them to go do it. 15 mins later they come back and say that I also now have a 1762 code and that flashing the PCM most likely wasn't going to fix my problem. They said that the solenoid or switch or both were most likely my problem. They quoted me $900 to replace them and I said thanks, I'll think about it and took off.

I ordered both parts from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com for $100 shipped. I did buy the transmission gasket from the dealer, as recommended by many users here. That cost me $32 and I was very surprised how much that gasket set me back. But better to buy a quality gasket and only have to do the job once, than buy a cheaper gasket, fill it all up and then find a leak and have to replace the gasket and all the fluid you lost when you have to drop the pan again. I bought 5 qts of Castrol ATF+4 and a tranny filter from AutoZone. Anyways, to make a long story short, the job took me about 2 hrs, b/c I took my time and had never done this before. It was extremely easy and I'm glad to say after resetting my PCM, my check engine light hasn't come back and I have all my gears again.

Here's a quick how-to that hopefully can benefit others in the future.

- First, remove the rear and side transmission drain pan bolts (1/2" bolts). Once you get to the side ones, bring in something to catch the fluid that will start coming out.

- Next, loosen the front 4 bolts, but don't remove. This will allow the drain pan to drop more in the rear let out alot of the tranny fluid. Now go take a break and let it drain as much as it can.

- Now remove the front 4 bolts and lower the drain pan. The drain pan will still have plenty of fluid in it, so be careful and lower it slowly and evenly, so you don't make a mess everywhere. Again, take another break and let the tranny drain more fluid down.

- To change the tranny filter, there are two T20 torx screws that hold it in place. Remove these screws and carefully and evenly drop the filter. It has alot of fluid in it still, just like the drain pan.

- Put the new tranny filter in it's place and fasten down the two torx screws snuggly.

- On the passenger side of the tranny, you'll see two connectors going to the governor pressure solenoid and sensor. These are both mounted to the governor body. Disconnect both of these connectors.

- To remove the governor body to swap out these parts, there are 4 (7/16") bolts and 2 T20 torx screws. Loosen these bolts and screws and be careful, b/c there is more fluid behind the governor body. Once it's drained, then remove these bolts and screws and lower down the governor body. Take note, b/c there is a governor body gasket. Mine stayed attached to the transmission. No need to replace this gasket, it's reusable. Just don't lose it or damage it if it comes off with the governor body. Also, there is a governor retainer plate that will come off too. Just set this aside, but don't lose this either. It can only go back on one way, so it makes installation very easy.

- The governor pressure sensor is plugged into the side of the governor body and the solenoid is plugged into the middle of the governor body. To replace the sensor, there is a M clip on the inside of the governor body. Just use something to pry it up and off of the sensor. Once off, just pop the old sensor out, pop the new one in and slide the M clip onto the new sensor. The solenoid is even easier, b/c all you have to do is pop out the old solenoid and pop in the new one. Take note, however, the orientation of the connector so when you install the new one, it's pointing the same way.

- Slide the retainer plate back onto the governor body and re-install back into the transmission. Make sure the gasket is in place first and aligned properly. Install the 4 (7/16") bolts and the 2 T20 torx screws. Then re-connect the two connectors for the solenoid and the switch.

- Now, empty the drain pan, remove the old gasket, clean the magnet inside the drain pan and clean the surfaces where the new gasket is going to go, on both the drain pan and transmission side. Once everything is clean, put the new gasket on the drain pan and install a couple of the (1/2") bolts in the drain pan to hold it in place to the transmission.

- I used the star pattern for tightening down the drain pan bolts. I only snugged down the bolts to begin with. Start with the corners first, then the middle bolts, then snug down the remaining. Once all bolts are snugged down, then grab a ft/lbs torque wrench and tighten all bolts to 13 ft/lbs. Again, I started with the corners, then the middles, then whatever was left.

- Go under the hood, pull out the tranny dipstick, insert a funnel and add 5 qts or so of ATF+4. Before turning the truck on, disconnect the positive battery terminal and insert the key and turn it to the ON position and let it go for a minute or two to reset the PCM of any fault codes. Re-connect the battery, start the truck and put it in neutral and let the truck warm up for about 5 mins. Select each gear and let it sit for a minute to cycle the fluid throughout the transmission. Once all gears have been selected, bring it back to neutral and check the tranny fluid level. Add as necessary. Check underneath for any leaks around the tranny drain pan. There shouldn't be any check engine lights and the truck should function as normal, if the problem was your governor solenoid or switch.

- Drive it for a few days and re-check the fluid level and check again for any transmission leaks.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by Maveri9720 : 06-25-2010 at 04:00 PM.
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