87 ram 150 overcharging - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 05-21-2010, 11:47 PM
spud1989
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87 ram 150 overcharging

hey there i have a 87 power ram 150 with the 318 4x4 i was having troubles with the battery that was in the truck when i got it so i replaced it. After a couple days the new battery was dead so i replaced my alternater which was shorting out and fried my fuseable link and my truck would not start so i changed the starter and it wasnt the problem i quickly found that it was my fuseable link and replaced it. now my truck started every thing was good for about a month until the new battery was fried so i replaced it and tested voltage and my battery is charging at over 17 volts i replaced the voltage regulator and still over charging iv checked all wires everything looks ok dont know where to go from here can anyone help?

Thanks
Aaron
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#2 Old 05-22-2010, 06:00 AM
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The charing system on these trucks is very simple. Power is supplied to the regulator and one side of the field coil from the ignition switch. The other side of the field coil goes back to the regulator where the regulator then switches that side to ground as needed to maintain the proper voltage level at the sense wire. The regulator gets it's ground through the firewall via the screws that attach it to the firewall and it's contact with the firewall. It sounds like you either have a bad regulator or the sense wire is not getting power to the regulator.
Pull the connector on the regulator and with the ignition switch in the on position measure the voltage at the 2 pins of the connector. Be sure to use a good ground like the battery negative terminal. You should see battery voltage at both pins of the regulator connector. If not you have a wiring problem in the circuit. If both are good you have a bad regulator.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#3 Old 05-22-2010, 11:33 AM
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thank you for the fast reply!
i checked both and i am only getting voltage to one. the one with the blue wire the center of the plug is giving me voltage. the green wire has no voltage at all. should i run new wires?

thanks
Aaron
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#4 Old 05-22-2010, 12:31 PM
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Pull the connector for the field wires at the alternator. With the ignition switch on check for voltage on the blue wire there. I you have voltage there turn off the igntion switch and using an ohm meter check the continuity of the green wire back to the connector at the regulator. Resistance should be no more than 2-3 ohms. While you have the field coil wire disconnected at both ends check for a short to ground in the wire by measuring continuity with an ohm meter between battery ground and each end of the green wire at the connectors. You should have a very high reading. If that checks out you likely have a bad alternator with the field coil shorted to ground internally. Take the alternator and have it tested to be sure.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#5 Old 05-22-2010, 01:12 PM
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ok so im still getting voltage from the blue wire at the alt. i disconted both ends of the green wire and used my ohm meter on each end of the green to the battery ground im not getting a reading on ethir side of the green wire
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#6 Old 05-22-2010, 03:59 PM
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I made those last instructions a little unclear. Checking each end to ground with the ohm meter was to make sure it was not shorted to ground which it is not. You should also check from end to end of the green wire to verify continuity there, though being broken and not having continuity between the regulator and the alternator would keep it from charging not make it overcharge. New regulators can be bad too and they just as often fail in the overcharge mode as the no-charge mode. As a test to see if the field coil is shorted inside the alternator you could make a jumper wire that goes from the blue wire on the connector to the alternator to one of the field wires on the connections on the alternator and leave the green wire disconnected at the alternator. If you don't see an excess charge voltage with the jumper in you've got a bad regulator. If it still over charges the field coil is shorted internally and the alternator is bad.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#7 Old 05-22-2010, 05:46 PM
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you were right i took my alternater back and it was not workiing properly it was grounding out in side some place so they covered it and gave me a new one hooked it all up and she is charging at 14.2 volts. thanks alot for the help. would you happen to know anything about the heater fan in the truck? my windows and fan will only work with the key turned on not with the truck running.. really weird i think but have know idea.. thanks again for all the help!

Aaron
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#8 Old 05-22-2010, 06:29 PM
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So they work with the key in the run position without the engine running but once you start the engine they don't work even though the key is in the run position then too?

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#9 Old 05-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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yea i have to hold the key in the run position than i hear the fan start up if i just let go of the keys it cuts out same with the windows i have to hold the keys and us the the door panel buttons if i let the key go they dont work. and when i start the truck up none of it works
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#10 Old 05-22-2010, 10:08 PM
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Bad ignition switch.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#11 Old 05-23-2010, 12:00 PM
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right on. are they hard to change?
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#12 Old 05-23-2010, 04:51 PM
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Thankfully something I've never had to do. Search the forum there are plenty of posts for bad ignition switches. If that doesn't help start another thread with a subject of replacing the switch and you'll get help. Sorry I can't help you on this one.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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#13 Old 05-24-2010, 08:50 AM
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You will need a steering wheel puller. It is not hard to change ignition switch but time consuming. Stay away from standard motor products. They are made in China and I've had three fall apart inside. NAPA Echlin products work well.

Call Joe at http://www.mopartruckparts.com/. He may have a NOS one.

http://www.dodgeconnection.com/DodgeConnectionHome.html may also have one.

1977 Macho 360, 727 and 203 Need Macho Roll Bar

Last edited by yogibare143; 05-24-2010 at 08:57 AM.
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#14 Old 05-25-2010, 05:48 PM
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ok well thanks alot for the help!
have a good one
Aaron
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#15 Old 05-25-2010, 05:50 PM
spud1989
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how much do you think one of those costs?
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#16 Old 05-25-2010, 06:46 PM
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About $15 from Harbor Freight.

'86 D150 Custom LWB, White, A/C, 318-2bbl, 727, 6050 GVWR, 9-1/4 3.21 Sure-Grip
All Heavy Duty Options- 114 amp alternator, big radiator, transmission cooler, original owner, everything works!
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