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#1 Old 04-16-2010, 04:49 PM
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electric fan

what is the benefit of installing an electric fan and a higher temperature thermostat??

95' 1500 regular cab short wheel base 4X4 w/5.9(360) Performance pulley's, K&N cold air intake, free flow exhaust w/cherry bomb glass packs & 4"tips, 4"lift kit wrapped in 36x12.50 Super Swampers. Her name is RUBY and she is the new love of my life . She needs a paint job but it's not about looks,if you know what I mean
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#2 Old 04-16-2010, 05:47 PM
dodgensince74
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most put the electric fans to keep the original fan from robbing power from the motor and install a lower temp stat to keep the engine cooler

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#3 Old 04-25-2010, 10:45 AM
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your located in a hot zone state! cool that ram down to a 180 stat! most drivers experience ping on a 195 stat and bad mileage.
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#4 Old 04-25-2010, 12:45 PM
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I am going with a 160 and electric fan in my V10. I just have to get the SCT tuner first.

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#5 Old 04-25-2010, 02:40 PM
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the pcm looks for a maintaned 160*. if the engine temp drops any it will let you know. hope that 160 stat doesnt throw codes for you carlose.
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#6 Old 04-28-2010, 07:49 AM
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On my 360, I did the 160 stat initially. I've always ran 160 stats, until lately. With the 360, I found that, even in Texas, it is really too cold. The CEL did not ever come on- but the gas mileage went way down- 7.6 mpg! Now, after changing to a 180, (it runs about 180 degree water temp too- it actually opens about 175) it is up to 9.6 mpg and still climbing. Good luck with your thermostat- j.d.

jdb, Ft. Hood, TX
1999 Dodge Ram 360 V-8, diesel radiator, 180 degree thermostat, flow-kooler high perf water pump, automatic, tow package (stock tranny cooler removed for one 3 times the stock size, fits in same spot), 10,000 mile engine oil changes- non synthetic oil, open element K&N, Flex-a-lite monster dual electric fan, three small electric fans in front of A/C condensor, cab high topper. Moved to Fort Hood this past summer: pulled a GCWR 16880 pound trailer in 105 degree weather - ran max water temp of 205. No blown head gasket/trans problems/pickup is fine.

1998 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed, 6 cyl radiator, 2" lift, 31" tires/rims bought used, other mods as above, more mods (lockers, rear dana 44) hopefully coming.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mods as above, 150,000 miles.

2003 Jeep Liberty, mods as above, with the exception of 185 degree therm. to get CEL to stay off. (still working that)

1937 John Deere model "B" tractor, hand start, restored, .150 over, alum pistons, crankshaft has never been out of the tractor, no thermostat or water pump stock, 150 degree water temp, K&N intake, 3 point hitch, double seat, umbrella.
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#7 Old 04-28-2010, 08:03 AM
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Why to switch to electric fan:

makes the front of the engine far easier to work on. (belts, hoses, radiator, tranny cooler, condenser, etc.

Takes the weight of the engine driven fan off of the water pump- I've never had to replace a water pump after putting on an electric fan.

In stop and go traffic- engine warms up quicker, thus getting the EFI to 'closed loop' faster, resulting in better gas mileage, less emissions, less plugging of your cat, etc.

Keep in mind, though: esp in Florida- you'll very likely need a bigger radiator, like the diesel radiator (fits in a 3/4 ton, bolt in) at the very least, put a mechanical water temp gauge into the cab (mounted mine onto the left side on the windshield pillar) auto meter makes a great line of gauges, last forever. Make sure your engine is actually running the temp it should- 165 or 185. good luck.

jdb, Ft. Hood, TX
1999 Dodge Ram 360 V-8, diesel radiator, 180 degree thermostat, flow-kooler high perf water pump, automatic, tow package (stock tranny cooler removed for one 3 times the stock size, fits in same spot), 10,000 mile engine oil changes- non synthetic oil, open element K&N, Flex-a-lite monster dual electric fan, three small electric fans in front of A/C condensor, cab high topper. Moved to Fort Hood this past summer: pulled a GCWR 16880 pound trailer in 105 degree weather - ran max water temp of 205. No blown head gasket/trans problems/pickup is fine.

1998 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed, 6 cyl radiator, 2" lift, 31" tires/rims bought used, other mods as above, more mods (lockers, rear dana 44) hopefully coming.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mods as above, 150,000 miles.

2003 Jeep Liberty, mods as above, with the exception of 185 degree therm. to get CEL to stay off. (still working that)

1937 John Deere model "B" tractor, hand start, restored, .150 over, alum pistons, crankshaft has never been out of the tractor, no thermostat or water pump stock, 150 degree water temp, K&N intake, 3 point hitch, double seat, umbrella.
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#8 Old 04-28-2010, 05:51 PM
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I swapped to an electric fan on my Grand Cherokee after the original clutch burned up. The engine revs a lot quicker, and since my thermostat is wired directly in, the fan keeps cooling the engine after I shut it off. It won't run constantly, but it cycles a few times or more depending on the ambient temp.
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#9 Old 04-29-2010, 10:13 AM
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where would i get an electric fan and how much? also how do you install one? lol

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#10 Old 04-29-2010, 02:51 PM
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I used a Ford Taurus fan because the shroud is about the same size as my radiator, but I don't know for a truck. You could always just buy a universal one.
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#11 Old 04-30-2010, 07:03 AM
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I use flex a lite fans, I've always had very good luck with them, none have ever failed; i keep my pickups at least 10 years. I ran one 15 years, still going when I sold it.

On a 1999 Ram, this is an easy install. As on all vehicles, you'll have to remove the radiator first, (I'd highly recommend the diesel radiator, or otherwise heavy duty radiator, when you have it out, why not?) That done, you can then undo the big nut holding on the fan and fan clutch. You'll need a rubber strap wrench, this grips onto pulleys, they are very cheap at any tool store, sears or lowe's, etc. With a tight grip on the pulley- I rest the wrench against another pulley- then you take a big crescent and put a pipe on the end of that for extra leverage- and remember that big nut is reverse threaded (take off clock-wise) and take that big nut off. After the big nut is off- everything else is cake. Take out the fan and fan shroud. Then install your flex a lite fan (get the biggest CFM that will still fit on your new radiator surface area) to your new radiator. Then install the both where the radiator originally fit. Hook up the electric, very easy with flex a lite's instructions, and you are set!

jdb, Ft. Hood, TX
1999 Dodge Ram 360 V-8, diesel radiator, 180 degree thermostat, flow-kooler high perf water pump, automatic, tow package (stock tranny cooler removed for one 3 times the stock size, fits in same spot), 10,000 mile engine oil changes- non synthetic oil, open element K&N, Flex-a-lite monster dual electric fan, three small electric fans in front of A/C condensor, cab high topper. Moved to Fort Hood this past summer: pulled a GCWR 16880 pound trailer in 105 degree weather - ran max water temp of 205. No blown head gasket/trans problems/pickup is fine.

1998 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed, 6 cyl radiator, 2" lift, 31" tires/rims bought used, other mods as above, more mods (lockers, rear dana 44) hopefully coming.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mods as above, 150,000 miles.

2003 Jeep Liberty, mods as above, with the exception of 185 degree therm. to get CEL to stay off. (still working that)

1937 John Deere model "B" tractor, hand start, restored, .150 over, alum pistons, crankshaft has never been out of the tractor, no thermostat or water pump stock, 150 degree water temp, K&N intake, 3 point hitch, double seat, umbrella.
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