2000 ram 2500 4x4 5.9 oil pan removal question - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 04-03-2010, 12:43 AM
michigan roman
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2000 ram 2500 4x4 5.9 oil pan removal question

my manual says must loosen passenger side rear motor mount to lift engine up a little to get pan off . if anyones done it is that fact ?
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#2 Old 04-03-2010, 03:00 PM
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no need for that,,


just remove starter, trans backet thing and the fly wheel cover thing
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#3 Old 05-07-2010, 12:19 PM
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wondering is that on your 1500 , or are you sure its like that on my 2000 2500 4x4
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#4 Old 05-07-2010, 12:36 PM
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well i dont know on a 2500 gas but i dont think it will be problem
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#5 Old 05-11-2010, 09:16 PM
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Is that a 5.9 diesel or gas?

2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Driftwood 4x4 SLT Ext. Cab
BDS 3" suspension lift
285/75R16 Toyo Open Country M/T
Pacesetter Long tube headers with dual exhaust
AFE Stage 2 Cold air intake
Superchips 3715 programmer
And one sweet rockerguarded gas cap


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#6 Old 05-11-2010, 09:23 PM
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#7 Old 05-11-2010, 09:25 PM
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and in case configuration matters its extended cab / full bed
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#8 Old 05-11-2010, 09:38 PM
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When I did it on my truck it was a pretty tight squeeze getting the pan out without loosing the motor mounts and raising the motor, really not a big hassle to do that. Service manuals say to do that, but ive heard of guys doing it without raising the motor, so try it and if it doesnt work you know what you have to do.

2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Driftwood 4x4 SLT Ext. Cab
BDS 3" suspension lift
285/75R16 Toyo Open Country M/T
Pacesetter Long tube headers with dual exhaust
AFE Stage 2 Cold air intake
Superchips 3715 programmer
And one sweet rockerguarded gas cap


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#9 Old 05-11-2010, 09:56 PM
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thanx cm . im gonna do it here some time this summer as im at 95,000 and want to clean out oil pan and change oil pump in my 100,000 mile maintenance program as its all pretty much original as original owner i bought from maintained / babied it so it all lasted without replacement .

just started on brake lines and replaced the main line along inner driver side frame from master cylinder to rear axle and couldnt believe how badly rusted that line was , saw alot of guys say same problem . i went to a local custom brake line place ' in line tube ' in shelby township michigan and bought the two peices of stainless steel line of say 10' and 1' flared / fitted for $50 ,
fished the long peice between tank and frame without dropping tank and hooked the peices up . helped dropping spare tire for alot more room working at rear axle . that rear height sensing proprtioning valve the dealer wants $500 for so baby it , or i think if it goes it could be replaced with simpler / universal valve as that height sensing feature doesnt do much as explained to me by a brake shop owner . bleeder valves were tight rusted and so far only busted one loose to bleed lines . if anyone does this ide suggest getting penetrant oil on weeks previous , plus tapping with hammer or whatever here and there to try vibrating them loose to . just brought this up as warning for who ever reads this on that brake line because its dangerous not replacing them imo
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