How to tell if wheel bearing is bad - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 03-30-2010, 01:27 PM
jeepme79
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How to tell if wheel bearing is bad

I've got an '03 2500 4x4 CTD with a very loose front end. I know the ball joints are bad, and I'm assuming the wheel bearings are bad too, but my question is unless the bearing is really bad, how can I tell if it still needs replaced? Is there any way to really test it? I am seeing a little rusty dust gathering on the wheels leading me to believe the bearings are dry, but with a sealed unit, it's hard to verify that.

Tearing it apart tonight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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#2 Old 03-30-2010, 01:32 PM
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Usually there is a howling sound that will be worse when you turn one way as apposed to another.

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#3 Old 03-30-2010, 02:49 PM
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If you jack the truck up and spin the wheel, you'll hear it. It will sound like a clunck clunck sound when turning the wheel. Rather than a smooth motion, you'll almost feel the wheel stop at points when they are bad.


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#4 Old 03-31-2010, 10:49 AM
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Bad u-joint and bad ball-joints make that hard to diagonse. I pulled the bearing out last night and by hand it feels fine, so I'm not really sure if I should replace it or not.

On a side note, does the axle shaft have a c-clip inside the diff housing? I tried pulling the half shaft out and it sure feels like it.

2003 2500 CTD QC 4x4 6-speed
- Bully Dog Crazy Larry
- 295/70r17 Nitto's
- 380,000 on the clock
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#5 Old 04-01-2010, 04:41 PM
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i will make a nosie and you will know it, Bearing degrade slowly over time but when one goes bad it will make a friction nosie, you sould hear it. If it is a loud nosie change it soon i have seen the friction so bad that they can cause a fire in the frontend.
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#6 Old 04-03-2010, 06:48 AM
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Good luck gettin' them off. Did mine a month ago. PITA x 10!

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#7 Old 04-03-2010, 06:49 AM
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http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292195

2004 DODGE RAM 2500 LARAMIE w/ THE HEMI - BLACK ON BLACK/GRAY LEATHER - 295/70/18 NITTO TRAIL GRAPPLERS - 18x9 FUEL BOOST 5.75" BS/+20 OFFSET - AEM BRUTE FORCE CAI -CUSTOM MAGNAFLOW CAT-BACK EXHAUST 14" SI/SO - MAGNAFLOW Y-PIPE - NGK 5306 SPARKPLUGS - DIEHARD PLATINUM BATTERY - RECON SMOKED CAB AND 3RD BRAKE LIGHTS - RECON FIRE AND ICE TAILGATE BAR - TOTAL LED CONVERSION FRONT TO REAR - BILSTEIN'S ALL AROUND - EXTANG FULLTILT TONNEAU COVER - ALPINE 9886 HEAD UNIT AND ALPINE MRP_M300 AMP - JL AUDIO 12w1v2 SUBWOOFER - AVITAL 4103 REMOTE START AND KEYLESS ENTRY - UNIQUE COATINGS FLASHTECH HIDS - 9007 6000K BI-XENON HEADS AND 9006 6000K FOGS - EZ-DOWN TAILGATE ASSIST - HUSKY FLOORMATS - SUPERCHIPS CORTEX 3950 w/ TRANNY TUNE - MOPAR REAR WHEEL WELL LINERS - BUSHWACKER EXTEND-A-FENDERS - TEKONSHA PRODIGY BRAKE CONTROLLER-AUTO METER FACTORY MATCHED TRANNY TEMP GAUGE
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#8 Old 06-30-2010, 06:36 PM
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Jack uP the front end, put one hand at 12oclock one at 6, rock the tire if you feel play the bearing is bad, just make sure your lower and upper ball joints are not moving and the hub is moving.
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#9 Old 07-01-2010, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepme79 View Post
Bad u-joint and bad ball-joints make that hard to diagonse. I pulled the bearing out last night and by hand it feels fine, so I'm not really sure if I should replace it or not.

On a side note, does the axle shaft have a c-clip inside the diff housing? I tried pulling the half shaft out and it sure feels like it.
Yep....the CV/axle/front drive shaft have a retaining snap ring inside.
THe manual says to use two pry bars to pry out the drive shaft.
AL.

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