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pxl1835
 
  97 3.0 v6 water pump and timing belt replacement - Posted: 03-29-2010, 09:48 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
State: NJ
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Post #1

Hi all,

I need to replace my 97 3.0L v6 GC water pump and timing belt. It is a big job after checking out the Haynes Manual. I need to get everything out of the way but not sure what the tube is shown in the attached picture with an arrow. Can I disconnect it ? and it looks like a fuel line to me. Any info is helpful. Thanks in advance.
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mastertech
 
 Posted: 03-29-2010, 10:59 PM
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Post #2

fuel line go ahead and unhook it
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 03-30-2010, 12:30 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #3

Thanks Mastertech.

Is there any savety precaution on disconnecting it?

My kid is going to be around when I do the job, not going to flame after disconnect?

thx.

pxl
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 03-30-2010, 12:45 PM
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Post #4

Relieve the fuel pressure before disconnecting it, unless you want a face full of fuel.
The fuel rail has a relief valve on it. Pull the cap and push it in with a screwdriver or something.Have a rag twisted around to catch the fuel. It almost looks like a tire valve.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-01-2010, 07:28 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #5

StandonCliff,
thanks for ur input. Saw your comments on turning the crankshaft from another post, got a question:

Without battery, can TDC be set by turning the crankshaft bolt?
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-02-2010, 12:45 AM
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Post #6

It can be turned no problem with the crank bolt. Don't use air tools to put it in, if you have it removed. The engine turns clockwise from the front. Same direction as tightening. Closely line it up to TDC before removing the harmonic balancer. It can be lined up after the harmonic balancer and timing cover is removed, if the crank moved when you removed the harmonic balancer. Make sure the mark on the crank sprocket and the marks on the cam gears are lined up, before removing the belt.
Once you get it to your TDC mark, use a hammer to tap on the ratchet handle, when you want to losen and remove the bolt. Or use an air impact to remove it (preferable). It'll stay at TDC this way. It's also alot easier to hit perfect TDC with the spark plugs removed (very least, cylinder 1). Keeps cylinder compression from passing the mark.
Start routing the timing belt from the bottom crank sprocket and work counter clockwise, keeping it taunt. Once you tighten the tensioner, hand roll it with that crank bolt and a ratchet socket combo. You want at least two full revolutions of the cam gears. This translates to four turns of the crank. Hand roll it back to TDC and check your marks again. If all good,put timing cover back on. If not losen tensioner and retry.
Might want to replace that tensioner too.
Remember when removing the water pump there is a water tube that will stay. It goes under the intake manifold and exits at the rear of the engine. You'll need to work the water pump off it, don't forget to replace the o-ring, supplied with the new water pump. Make sure to lube it before trying to install the water pump. If that o-ring rips, you'll be doing it all over again and won't know until you fill it with antifreeze.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-03-2010, 12:30 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #7

Thanks standoncliff for ur advices.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-04-2010, 01:49 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #8

another question:

What are the other ways to hold the engine not to drop after taking off the right engine bracket other than putting a log of wood under the oil pan with and a jack?

I somehow feel that under the oil pan method could damage the oil pan given the oil pan has been corroded over time since 97.

thx.
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-05-2010, 10:17 AM
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Post #9

I've never seen that happen. I suppose it's possible. If it's that rusty it should be replaced. Using the 2x4 to go from corner to corner of the oil pan on the left side of the vehicle and a jack should be fine. You only need to lift it a bit to take the weight off the support bracket. Just using a jack alone has more tendency to mess the oil pan up.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-05-2010, 08:15 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #10

thanks standoncliff.

I don't understand what you said about put a 2x4 inch log of wood under the oil pan with a jack 'on the left side'. isn't it better support on the right side of the oil pan which is closest to the right suppot bracket? can you elaborate plz?
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-06-2010, 08:49 AM
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Post #11

I meant the right side. The side with the bracket needs supported. Sorry to confuse you.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-06-2010, 11:34 AM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #12

thx Standoncliff. i guess the oil pickup inside the oil pan can help the oil pan shell to take some weight as well as long as i try to put it right under the pickup, right thought? or it could damage the pickup internally?
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-06-2010, 07:27 PM
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Post #13

The oil pickup tube is actually not touching the bottom of the pan. You would have to crush the crap out of the pan to damage it. I've used the pan and a piece of wood to jack an engine up to change the motor mounts. Never had a problem. You'll only be holding the engine so you won't have a problem. The only way to actually damage it is to use a bottle jack without the wood support. Even then you would have to be in the middle of the pan and jacking it up. Once you see the weight is lifting off the mount, your done lifting. If you use a piece of wood that goes from corner to corner on the right side, this will give the support you need. The corners of the pan are more solid then the middle. Put the jack in the center of the wood.

If you are completely worried about the oil pan you could always pull the hood. Use a comealong or chain fall to lift and hold the engine. Remember though, most things in the front of the engine need removed, which won't give many places to hook onto.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-16-2010, 09:25 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #14

StandOnCliff, thanks for your info and help. I am getting ready to do this huge job to me.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-18-2010, 07:35 PM
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Post #15

more questions:

1. how to hold the crankshaft and camshaft from turning to take their bolts off? i do have an impact wrench.

2. how to hold the crack and cam from turning when torque them back on to the specs?
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-19-2010, 10:32 AM
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Post #16

The camshafts will need held in place through the holes in it. A pointed pry bar works as well as a heavy duty screwdriver. Reaching through the hole you lock the tip of the pry bar or screwdriver onto a bolt head behind the cam gear.
The crank can be held in place from the bottom. Removing the flywheel/torque converter access plate will provide you the teeth of the flywheel. A heavy duty flat screwdriver works. Stick it into a tooth of the flywheel that is close to the crankcase. Sort of wedging it. You'll be turning the crank bolt clockwise to tighten it. Wedge the screwdriver into a tooth on the counterclockwise side of the flywheel. It'll be the last tooth you can get to on that side right against the case of the engine. You may need someone to hold it as it's torqued. Removing the starter can also give you a way to get to the flywheel teeth.
For removal the impact works without moving anything. It'll also work to put it back together and snug everything up. It's only when you use the torque wrench will you need to lock things in place.
You shouldn't need to remove the cam gears at all unless you plan on replacing the camshaft seals.
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-19-2010, 10:53 AM
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Post #17

Don't forget to use locktite on the camshaft bolts, if they are removed and the crank bolt when final installation is near.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-19-2010, 11:06 AM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #18

Quote:
Originally Posted by StandOnCliff View Post
The crank can be held in place from the bottom. Removing the flywheel/torque converter access plate will provide you the teeth of the flywheel. A heavy duty flat screwdriver works.....
You shouldn't need to remove the cam gears at all unless you plan on replacing the camshaft seals.
Thanks StandOnCliff again.
I am thinking changing the two cam front seals and the crank front seal while I am at it.

This is just an thought processed from our previous conversations on supporting the engine: Since the front and back engine mounts are intact, so I feel ok now to just jack the oil pan while the right engine mount is removed.

Anyway: I don't know excatly where the flywheel/torque converter access plate is(roughtly know on the left side).

What work involved in doing so for getting the access to it? Any pictures on the location?

appreciate your reply.
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StandOnCliff
 
 Posted: 04-20-2010, 10:33 AM
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Post #19

The flywheel access plate is behind the oilpan. It's where the transmission and the engine meet. It'll actually be bolted to the transmission itself. Usually held on with 10 mm bolts. This picture will help identify it's location. The plate has already been removed showing access to the flywheel. Also called the driveplate. Where I placed a red circle is about the area you would need to put a screwdriver. The tip of it would go between a tooth on the flywheel and the stem of the screwdriver would wedge against, up towards the block where you see the biggest bolt head. The handle of the screwdriver would be close to the oil pan.
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pxl1835
 
 Posted: 04-20-2010, 10:43 PM
1997 GC 3.0 L. 187,000 m
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Post #20

thanks StandOnCliff for the great help. I'll check it out under my van.
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