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04Durango47L40
 
  Dexcool Antifreeze/coolant in D??? - Posted: 02-11-2010, 09:37 PM
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Post #1

So when my D was in the shop last the mechanice told me and showed me that orange crap called Dexcool Antifreeze. I thought GM was the only one that used Dexcool? Im not a big fan of it because it hard to find, expensive and just a big pain in my ass! Also the mechaic told me Dexcool has a tendency to build up a wax, so im not happy that junk is in my D! Has anyone else heard of this???
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Gold5th
 
 Posted: 02-11-2010, 11:45 PM
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Post #2

We us other stuff.. Dex cool is the chev stuff... Umm it's an organic coolant.. second while I find the name... it's HOAT.. I found this blurb:

Quote:
It is best to use the Mopar coolant because although the GM/Havoline Dex-Cool orange coolant is very similar, it is not identical. Both the Mopar long-life orange and the Dex-Cool are Ethylene Glycol coolants with an Organic additive package, but the Mopar stuff sneaks in one inorganic aditive as well: silicates. Chrysler engineers think that the Mopar stuff is better than the Dex-Cool or its equivalents. What else would you expect them to say... Be sure to mix the coolant 50/50 with soft water. We were told when the Mopar long life was introduced back in '97 that the additives do not work well with hard water. It's best to use deionized or distilled water.
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KC_Metal
 
 Posted: 02-15-2010, 12:34 PM
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Post #3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold5th View Post
We us other stuff.. Dex cool is the chev stuff... Umm it's an organic coolant.. second while I find the name... it's HOAT.. I found this blurb:
I used the HOAT coolant by Prestone.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg prestoneAntiCool3.jpg (86.6 KB, 8 views)
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rangoneer
 
 Posted: 02-16-2010, 08:57 AM
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Post #4

I posted this in another thread a year or so back. This is what chrysler says. Still correct...boring, but correct.

CAUTION: Use of Propylene-Glycol based coolants is not recommended, as they provide less freeze protection and less corrosion protection.

The cooling system is designed around the coolant. The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the heat to the air.

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene-glycol base coolant with organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% ethylene-glycol and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37C (-35F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT) may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol and water mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating conditions. The coolant performance of various mixtures follows:

Pure Water- Water can absorb more heat than a mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for purpose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a higher temperature and allows corrosion.

100 percent Ethylene-Glycol - The corrosion inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the presence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives form deposits in system. These act as insulation causing temperature to rise to as high as 149C (300F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic. The increased temperature can result in sever engine damage. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22C (-8F).

50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water - Is the recommended mixture, it provides protection against freezing to -37C (-34F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7C (-90F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.

CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be measured with normal field equipment and can cause problems associated with 100 percent ethylene-glycol.
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KC_Metal
 
 Posted: 02-16-2010, 08:59 AM
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Post #5

I'm getting Mopar Hoat from the dealer next time.
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AK1
 
 Posted: 02-16-2010, 03:47 PM
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Post #6

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC_Metal View Post
I used the HOAT coolant by Prestone.
I just use the Mopar stuff. For the price difference & the change interval, I'm not taking any chances.
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KC_Metal
 
 Posted: 02-16-2010, 03:50 PM
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Post #7

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Originally Posted by AK1 View Post
I just use the Mopar stuff. For the price difference & the change interval, I'm not taking any chances.
That's what I'm thinking.
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Gold5th
 
 Posted: 02-16-2010, 04:19 PM
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Post #8

I bought some mopar stuff, mixed it nice 50/50.. I intended to use it for when I have to drain some for installing the e-fan, but so far it's been going in the wife's car(hers uses the same stuff) where the upper rad hose goes into the motor has a leak, and it would be a simple fix, but I need to remove the throttle body, intake manifold, and who knows what else to get to it.
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KC_Metal
 
 Posted: 02-17-2010, 07:03 AM
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Post #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold5th View Post
I bought some mopar stuff, mixed it nice 50/50.. I intended to use it for when I have to drain some for installing the e-fan, but so far it's been going in the wife's car(hers uses the same stuff) where the upper rad hose goes into the motor has a leak, and it would be a simple fix, but I need to remove the throttle body, intake manifold, and who knows what else to get to it.
So it's a PITA.
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Fu*k Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi, Lexus and all that other Jap crap!

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Gold5th
 
 Posted: 02-17-2010, 10:09 AM
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Post #10

yup.. her car had a new long block dropped in @ 64K KM due to piston slap (It's just shy of 100K Km now, not bad for an 02 bought fall 01) we noticed small issues since, like they forgot to put the nut on the bolt that keep the alt from moving and thus keeping the v belt tight. I think this might be related, probably used rtv instead of a gasket... it's a slow leak and only seems to leak if she lets her car idle for long periods of time..
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KC_Metal
 
 Posted: 02-17-2010, 10:14 AM
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Post #11

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold5th View Post
yup.. her car had a new long block dropped in @ 64K KM due to piston slap (It's just shy of 100K Km now, not bad for an 02 bought fall 01) we noticed small issues since, like they forgot to put the nut on the bolt that keep the alt from moving and thus keeping the v belt tight. I think this might be related, probably used rtv instead of a gasket... it's a slow leak and only seems to leak if she lets her car idle for long periods of time..
Who installed the new engine at 64K?
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2008 Chrysler 300 AWD Touring 3.5L V6: (Winter Car)
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Fu*k Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi, Lexus and all that other Jap crap!

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