1988 RamCharger 4wd mess - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 12-03-2009, 09:34 PM
bad64chevelle
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1988 RamCharger 4wd mess

I am about to have my 88 back on the road, but with winter coming I would like to have the 4wd setup just in case. I bought it with the 4wd vacuum basically hacked up and disconnected, and I dont know where to begin. My Chiltons and other books dont show me where the vac lines go, can anyone give me some pointers?

I can see what looks to be a 4 prong vacuum port that has 4 lines going from the for of the Transfer Case to the ball canister, and others more forward, and I have two that run from the transfer case up towards the back of the block, but one is blocked off and the other hose is ripped. The two hoses on the front diff are torn off, I know im in for quite a doozie, would doing a manual hub just be easier? Can I just put a manual hub on there or do I need to do other modifications. Thanks for any help!

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#2 Old 12-04-2009, 09:16 AM
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Here's some diagrams i hope come out and help somehow..?









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#3 Old 12-04-2009, 12:02 PM
bad64chevelle
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I think that is going to help tremendously! Thank You very much!

Jon

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#4 Old 12-04-2009, 06:29 PM
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No problem-o... hopefully someone 'stickies' this so we don't lose the reference...lol..
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#5 Old 12-05-2009, 08:34 PM
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If you would like to get rid of the vacuum motor, here's a kit to replace it with a cable.

'03 Ram 1500 QC 4x4
3" body lift, 35/12.50 17's on Eagle Alloys

'89 W250 4x4
$50 truck, but hey it runs
mods to come...
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#6 Old 12-06-2009, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdl71 View Post
If you would like to get rid of the vacuum motor, here's a kit to replace it with a cable.
Thats a interesting system, I am going to look into that I believe.

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1988 Dodge RamCharger 4x4 5.9 with some go fast.
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#7 Old 12-06-2009, 03:45 PM
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costs over 200 bucks tho.. granted..i suppose..the cost could be justified.. then again.. there's probably a cheaper way of doing it than that even..
SOmeone creative..could probably make their own system ..
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#8 Old 12-06-2009, 03:57 PM
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I've also heard of welding the lever into the engaged position, and installing a set of lockout hubs, but I haven't tried it myself.

'03 Ram 1500 QC 4x4
3" body lift, 35/12.50 17's on Eagle Alloys

'89 W250 4x4
$50 truck, but hey it runs
mods to come...
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#9 Old 12-06-2009, 05:29 PM
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last winter in the snow the vacuum unit on mine kept screwing up....i need 4x4 just to get to my house. The easiest cheapest way to fix it i found was to take a few nuts....jam it in the CAD unit so it's always engaged....then put hubs on it. I got a set of Mile Marker hubs and i haven't had a problem yet...just make sure you replace the split hose and cap off the others. in a couple weeks when i have the motor, tranny and TC out...i'm gonna eliminate that circuit all together. The Hubs cost like $60 and super easy to install

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#10 Old 12-06-2009, 05:31 PM
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i've looked at that cable setup for the CAD....tried to make my own. Didn't work so well. It's a nice idea but for me the cost was a bit to high for fixing a simple issue

87 Dodge 4x4 3/4t Mountian goat
mods so far: Rebuilt 360, Rebuilt NP435, Hella 700 lights
8 speaker sound system with light-up speakers and tweeters in the door
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#11 Old 01-02-2010, 12:43 AM
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I have a feeling a cable would end up rusting in place after a year or so up north.

Rob M.
'93 D150 RC SWB, 5.2 Magnum, NV4500 5-spd, 9.25" diff
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#12 Old 01-02-2010, 01:07 AM
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The Cad might be a pain in the arse but it is stronger that way. The manual hubs are weaker than the set up is now. I reckon you have pros and cons on each. Here is a tech article that was written at dodge ram.org

Pros and Cons

Fairly strong. The size of the axle shaft at the disconnect is significantly stronger than a hub end could ever be. The outer axle splines can have a much tighter tolerance and thus distributes the load better. The weak point is the bearing carrier design instead of using discrete inner and outer bearings. In the early Jeeps, there was close to 4" between the inner and outer bearings to support side loads. In the Ram, there is only 1/8" between them. This makes rim backspace selection critical, and requires much higher tolerances in the bearings themselves. Also, with no way to service the bearings without a 20 ton press, you have no way to prevent failure without spending $300 for a new carrier.

Since the use of 4WD requires vacuum, a leak, or destruction of the lines can render the 4WD inoperative. However, the lines are fairly well protected, and failures are rare. The vacuum switch is a known weak point. The switch is a little tower on the transfer case with four lines coming from it. The switch is activated by the transfer case when a lever inside the case presses a plunger at the base of the switch. Then, a spring in the switch extends the plunger when the lever is retracted. The problem is that the plunger is rounded to ease the lever's action. This rounded part can be easily jammed inside the switch by the standard gunk in the transfer case. When this happens, the interlock and the 4WD light will not disengage. It is an easy fix by just un screwing the switch and cleaning it, but when it happens, you can feel the extra drag of the front driveshaft and associated parts.

Maintenance is very easy. A fluid change every so often is about all it requires. No spindle bearings to wear out, no dial to regrease, and no seals to leak. (actually the axle seals can leak, but it isn't too common. The part that sucks is that the passenger side seal is a bugger to replace as the seal must be pressed from inside the disconnect housing.)

This is my third vehicle with the disconnect system and I've never really had any major problems with it. Sure, I've had seals leak, and the switch jam, and other annoying things, but when I need 4WD, it has always been there.

I've also had vehicles with manual and auto hubs, and this is still an easier and more reliable system. It is only when you HAVE to get the system engaged while stopped that it can be difficult. For me, I just engage the 4WD earlier. Besides, it goes with the tread Lightly ideals.

you can view the rest of it here and it has some good information and some good links

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm

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#13 Old 01-02-2010, 01:50 AM
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Speed Dragon.[quote]....I have a feeling a cable would end up rusting in place after a year or so up north....[unquote]. .I cant say mine failed from rust, but it only lasted 1 winter. Quality of Posi-L kit was good, but installed on my 90 ram the cable was very long; from CAD toward pass side, then big loop and back to dr side, then up into cab to drivers left hand. IMO, Hillbillybgopkr type method of eliminating CAD is far more reliable.

99 1500 SLT quad SB 4x4 5.2 227k mi; SUN vac ga, tow hooks ... umpteenth 46/re, LONG 28K lb tr cooler, HAYDEN temp ga ... 3.55 c/w broken clip, 255/70 MICH M+S ... RED HEAD, DSS, MOOG trac n adj BJ; AMS in motor n diffs; HUSKY flr mats ... New shocks, drums, EXTREME rotors; rebuilt mas cyl ... Recent windshield, rad, rr springs, frt axle joints n seals ... Hand vac pump to control recirc door

97 SLT club SB 4x4 5.2 auto 3.55 lsd, factory tr cooler, HD fan clutch; 140k mi
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