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crasher76
 
  l - Posted: 10-15-2009, 11:47 PM
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Post #21

Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMI450HP View Post
Wow! thats cool you got it on vid.
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BMRbrnSNRbrd
 
 Posted: 10-16-2009, 12:14 AM
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Post #22

I bet it didn't seem cool at the time...too bad how that truck ended up too...
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HEMI450HP
 
 Posted: 10-16-2009, 05:36 AM
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Post #23

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Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd View Post
I bet it didn't seem cool at the time...too bad how that truck ended up too...
If it wasnt for my driveshaft loop, that day would have been ALOT worse.
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03dodge
 
 Posted: 11-11-2009, 09:27 PM
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Post #24

Ok so my driveshaft hit the ground today!!! Lucky i was sitting at the light and had just barely hit the gas to go... Demon where did you go as Ill prob have to have mine towed there...
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GreatWhiteNorth
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 08:25 AM
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Post #25

I had to swap mine out about 3 years ago. It constantly felt like the truck was dragging something and every so often I'd hear a squeak. Climbed under the truck and there was some serious play at both ends of the drive shaft. I swapped them with greasables so now every time I do an oil change, while I'm under there I give each of them 1 pump from the grease gun and I never have to worry. Took me maybe a 1/2 hour from start to finish.
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BMRbrnSNRbrd
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 12:20 PM
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Post #26

How do I check the play in the joints? Truck in park, neutral, drive?
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06trxhemi
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 12:43 PM
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Post #27

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd View Post
How do I check the play in the joints? Truck in park, neutral, drive?
grab your shaft and jerk it.
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06trxhemi
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 12:44 PM
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Post #28

seriously though grab it and yank it from side to side if there is any play in it you will notice it. it should clunk back and forth if there is any play. if it is solid then you are good to go.
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GreatWhiteNorth
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 01:42 PM
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Post #29

And it doesn't matter what gear your truck is in either when you test the u-joints, and I typically try to jerk it back and forth at all angles, side to side, up and down, and at left/right angles. If there's any play, get them replaced.
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DannyMK2
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 03:22 PM
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Post #30

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRbrnSNRbrd View Post
How do I check the play in the joints? Truck in park, neutral, drive?
i was told in neutral with the e-brake on. what you want to try and do is grab the driveshaft on both sides of the u-joint and twist in opposite directions to check for play. there should be very little to no play at all. when i did mine, i had almost a 1/4" of rotational play in them. pretty bad. the truck squeaked, clicked and vibrated like hell. cost me about $40 for new joints and did them myself in a 1/2 hour. if youve got a vice, a hammer and a flat head screw driver, its a piece of cake. you may or may not need a heat torch to loosen them up a bit. i didnt on my truck, but i did on my friends. they were stuck in there really good.
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BMRbrnSNRbrd
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 04:18 PM
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Post #31

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check this weekend.
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2004 Dodge Ram 1500 QC Hemi
Performance: OEM 3.92s w/ LSD | PowerStop Z16 Ceramic pads | VHT Coated Thorley Tri-Y Headers and Y-Pipe | Magnaflow 3” SI/SO Muffler | Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat | Raceland USA Switch-N-Blast cutout | Shroudless Mark VIII E-Fan | 180* T-Stat | Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm Wires | NGK 5306 Plugs | Dual Cold Air Intake | Optima Yellowtop
Wheels/Suspension: DJM/Doetsch Tech 2/4 Drop | Belltech Nitro Drop 2 shocks | AirLift "Slam Air" Air Assist | Chrome Flower Petals | 295/50R20 Nitto 420S Tires
Exterior appearance: Street Scene bumper cover | 5% Tint | Cleared OEM Headlights | Direct fit projectors | 6000k HIDs | White LED Fogs | Color Matched and Shaved Grill | Gutter Grill | Black Vinyl B-Pillars | Red Calipers
Stereo: Stock head | Infinity "Reference" speakers | FatMat throughout doors and cab
Alarm: Python 990 Alarm w/ Remote Start | Two Sirens and hidden Piezo
Coming Soon: EFX rollpan and Street Scene Hidden Hitch
Chop Challenge Winner!:  - Issue reason: March 2010 Chop Challenge Winner!
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03dodge
 
 Posted: 11-12-2009, 09:37 PM
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Post #32

Well i have to replace the u-joint and the flange on the rear.. Took a chunk out of it.. 140$ flange..
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