5.9L or 6.7L? - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
View Poll Results: What Would You Prefer? (NOT WHAT YOU OWN!)
5.9L 211 77.57%
6.7L 61 22.43%
Voters: 272. You may not vote on this poll

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
#1 Old 08-29-2009, 01:49 PM
befast0rbelast
Hemi Power
 
befast0rbelast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Myakka
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
5.9L or 6.7L?

Hi All,
I will be purchasing a 07 CTD
Not sure if I should go with a 5.9L or 6.7L
I know the 6.7L has more Power but I do not want all the emissions crap to deal with.
I will be putting 2 8" Stacks on whatever I purchase.
I do not have inspections where I live and Its not an issue.
Let me know what you guys think.

HEMI POWERED
03 Ram 1500, Laramie, QC, 5.7L
Performance Mods:
AEM Brute Force Dry Flow CAI, AirRam Jet Stream & Power Wire
FlowMaster Super 44 Exhaust (Out The Side), 3.92 Gears, Taylor Spiro Pro Shorty Wires
Exterior Mods:
2 Hella 500FF Behind the Grill, 4 Halogen Rock Lights, 2 Halogen Rear Lights
275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ's

Light Addicts Anonymous Member #3

befast0rbelast is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 08-29-2009, 01:56 PM
Skyd Ram
DodgeTalk Sponsor
 
Skyd Ram's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Macomb TWP,Lewiston MI
Posts: 1,301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
My personal vote is a 5.9 but if you find a 6.7 that you like go for it. In stock form the 6spd auto is nicer that the 48re in the 5.9 trucks. At the moment there are not alot of options if you are plaaning on making alot of power and using the 6spd auto.

Assuming that you are buying used and are not worried about the warranty, a 6.7 truck with a full delete package is a nice setup. It really depends on how much money you will have to spend on the truck after you buy it. They are both extremely addictive.

2010 CCSB 2500 Laramie 6.7 Cummins
Carli/Bilstein/H&S/Flo Pro/aFe equipped

2008 RCLB F250 XLT 6.4 Powerstroke
Pure Performance/Bilstein/H&S/Flo Pro/aFe equipped

Official DodgeTalk Supporter

Authorized Dealer for:
Carli Suspension/Pure Performance Suspension/Bilstein Shocks
Dynatrac Products/BMF Wheels/MBRP Exhaust/AFE intakes and Exhaust/Smarty tuners

/H&S Performance/Flo Pro Exhaust/Edge Products



Call us Toll Free at: 888-886-2480


Find Us on Facebook

Skyd Ram is offline  
#3 Old 08-29-2009, 02:16 PM
CDP6.7
Senior Member
 
CDP6.7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 3,898
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Its a tough question to ask. I've never owned a 5.9 so I don't know if I prefer to a 6.7.

If you don't have emission testing or inspections - the emission problems can be solved fairly easy. Buy an XRT or Smarty, $60 EGR delete kit and run your stacks. Then, the 6.7 will be exactly like a 5.9, but with a better stock transmission.

The only two differences between the two, from a driving and ownership perspective is the emission system and transmission.

They both make similar power, at the same rpm range, both have the same service intervals and schedules. The 6.7 has the emission system to deal with, but has a better stock transmission for extra power. The 5.9 has no emission system, but a worse stock transmission.

If you are building a performance truck, you can upgrade the 48RE to hold all the power you want. And, you can swap one behind a 6.7. All the turbos, exhaust manifolds, intercoolers, etc. that go on a 5.9, can go on a 6.7 (excluding injectors).

Like I said, I've never owned a 5.9. But I do love my 6.7 with the deletes and tuning.

New Truck
2008 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax, EFI Live, 4" exhaust, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, more planned


Old Truck
2008 2500 6.7L CTD QCSB 4x4
12.05 @ 111.89 mph, 8800 DA 7/25/12 Fuel only

EFI Live, ATS Twin CP3's, 250hp nozzles, Full billet ATS 47RE w/standalone, Aurora 6000 75/83/1.10 AR, T4 two piece manifold, H-11's, 5.9 intercooler, AFE Stage 2, 5" turbo back no muffler, AirDog 150 X 2, DiPricol gauges, plugged fuel valve, 20x10 black Eagle Alloys on 305/50/R20 Nitto 420's
CDP6.7 is offline  
#4 Old 08-29-2009, 06:59 PM
befast0rbelast
Hemi Power
 
befast0rbelast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Myakka
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
I am going to go with a 1 ton dually.
I want all the towing capability I can have.
I know very little about Diesel Mods as I have been a Gas guy all my life.
So when you say 48RE I have no Idea what your referring to.

HEMI POWERED
03 Ram 1500, Laramie, QC, 5.7L
Performance Mods:
AEM Brute Force Dry Flow CAI, AirRam Jet Stream & Power Wire
FlowMaster Super 44 Exhaust (Out The Side), 3.92 Gears, Taylor Spiro Pro Shorty Wires
Exterior Mods:
2 Hella 500FF Behind the Grill, 4 Halogen Rock Lights, 2 Halogen Rear Lights
275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ's

Light Addicts Anonymous Member #3

befast0rbelast is offline  
#5 Old 08-29-2009, 07:45 PM
astrand
Registered User
 
astrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by befast0rbelast View Post
I am going to go with a 1 ton dually.
I want all the towing capability I can have.
I know very little about Diesel Mods as I have been a Gas guy all my life.
So when you say 48RE I have no Idea what your referring to.
That's the automatic transmission that is in the 3rd generation 5.9's.

2007 Ram 2500 Reg cab 4x4, 5.9L, 48RE Auto, long box. Jake brake. Silverline 4" T/B exhaust.

SILVER TRUCK CLUB MEMBER #158
astrand is offline  
#6 Old 08-29-2009, 11:44 PM
Ram3500Dually
Administrator
 
Ram3500Dually's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,656
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
I've had both and the 6.7 bone stock is as fast as a 5.9 with edge EZ and straight piped. I wouldn't go back to a 5.9

2013 Ram 3500 CTD 6.7L 6 Speed Aisin, 4:10 LSD

2005 Jeep Liberty Sport

1991 Shadow ES Turbo Convertible

1984 Mini-Ram Van (Show Van) **TOTM April 2007** In museum now

73 Pro Street Duster.**VOTM July 2008/ April 2011**

1951 Dodge 3 Window Business Coupe **VOTM Feb 2011**

1992 Custom Built Harley FXSTC Show Bike

2008 Harley FLHTCU Ultra Classic


DodgeTalk Administrator


CTD Enthusiast Club Member #02


Names Carl, if you cut me I bleed Mopar Blue


Past Trucks: 90 CC Dually CTD, 94 RC LB CTD, 95 CC SB 5.2L gas, 98 QC Dually CTD, 00 QC Dually CTD, 01 QC Off Road, 03 QC Dually CTD, 05 QC Dually CTD, 08 Dually CTD **ROTM April 2008**,10 CC Dually CTD,



SUPPORT THOSE WHO SUPPORT DODGETALK

Ram3500Dually is offline  
#7 Old 08-30-2009, 04:22 PM
me1magoo
Registered User
 
me1magoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,522
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Be careful with major modifications like completely removing the DPF and EGR systems if you know nothing about diesel engines. It's not as simple as "cut it off" even with the new programmers you need to know a little to make sure it is not screwed up. A good shop can do it for you, but how would you know when you found a good shop???? If you just want to tow heavy and have a good running truck there is no reason to have to pull the emissions systems off and add stacks, they are more for looks unless you are adding super high power and need the higher flow and lower restriction in the exhaust which stacks don't make any difference really. If you are bent on the stacks just for looks (b/c they're bad ass only) then just buy a 5.9L truck and be done with it. If you just want a good truck to tow with and have cash then buy a new one with the 6.7L, most of the bugs are worked out on the new ones and just leave it alone for a while and see if the emissions stuff gives you trouble.

Mat
'05 3500 SRW CTD 6 Speed Manual QC LB 4X4 SLT
-Valair Organic/ Feramic 500 HP clutch w/ heavy duty hyd kit
-AeroTurbine 4040L Performance Muffler w/ Resonator
-Meg's 4" Polished Chrome Exhaust tip extension
-WigiDigit block heater bumper plug
-Bilstein 5100 "Silver/Black" shocks all four corners
-AEM Brute Force CAI polished finish
-Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader
-Autometer dash cubby hole 3 gauge pod
Di Pricol 1600* pyrometer- preturbo thermocouple installed in top of exhaust manifold
Di Pricol 60 PSI Boost guage- fitting installed directly in intake elbow
Di Pricol 100- 280* engine oil temp- sensor directly in oil filter housing
*The perfect match to the Dodge instrument cluster- they really look factory!
-Overhead 3 gauge pod
Di Pricol fuel lift pump pressure- sensor in billet aluminum fuel filter cap
Di Pricol fuel rail pressure- uses factory sensor to 27k psi
Di Pricol rear diff temp- still need to install diff cover with port to hook up
-Mag Hytec rear diff cover w/ sensor
-Valley 16K fifth wheel w/ clamp rail installation kit
-Ram LED lighted hitch plug
-Uniden CB radio mounted on side of center console w/ thru the glass antenna in right corner of rear window
-Tekonsha "Voyager" brake controller mounted in front of 4WD shifter
-Spray in "TOFF" Bed Liner
-AutoVentShade Smoke Bugshield & Window Ventshades
-Westin Signature Series Step Bars- Chrome
-Mopar Black splash guards front and rear
-Air Horns- 4 horns, two compressors under left side of front bumper
-Smith & Wesson .40 semi auto w/ two 14 rd magazines (just in case they don't hear the horns!)


'11 Crossroads Cruiser CF33LF 35' fifth wheel, front BR, full size bath, center living with rear living/ BR and loft above rear- all the options, dual A/C's, power awning- all the good stuff

me1magoo is offline  
#8 Old 08-30-2009, 05:10 PM
gitchesum
Registered User
 
gitchesum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Personally, I would jump on a 6.7. Granted, the warranty would be voided before I left the dealer's lot and within hours, all the emissions equipment would be sitting in a pile.

I mean, it's a Cummins with almost an extra liter of displacement. Why wouldn't you want that.

2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Sport CTD.
Mods:
Smarty Programmer with the TNT/R program
Tranny built by Michael at HotRodDiesels.com
ARP Head Studs
Ported Head
F1 Diesel Flux 2.2 injectors
F1 Diesel HP valve springs
Magnaflow 4" Exhaust
SW Maximum Performance Gauges
FASS fuel system
18X9 XD Series Badlands chrome wheels
Rumble Bee Hood
JDM PRojector headlights with halo rings
Tinted tailights
Soon to install:
Twin Turbos
Stainless tube headers
Custom Aluminum Intake
gitchesum is offline  
#9 Old 08-30-2009, 05:17 PM
CDP6.7
Senior Member
 
CDP6.7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 3,898
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by me1magoo View Post
Be careful with major modifications like completely removing the DPF and EGR systems if you know nothing about diesel engines. It's not as simple as "cut it off" even with the new programmers you need to know a little to make sure it is not screwed up. A good shop can do it for you, but how would you know when you found a good shop???? If you just want to tow heavy and have a good running truck there is no reason to have to pull the emissions systems off and add stacks, they are more for looks unless you are adding super high power and need the higher flow and lower restriction in the exhaust which stacks don't make any difference really. If you are bent on the stacks just for looks (b/c they're bad ass only) then just buy a 5.9L truck and be done with it. If you just want a good truck to tow with and have cash then buy a new one with the 6.7L, most of the bugs are worked out on the new ones and just leave it alone for a while and see if the emissions stuff gives you trouble.
Actually, the emission system is REALLY easy to remove. Much easier than on a Duramax or PSD. The EGR delete takes about 30 minutes with basic hand tools (plenty of step by step instructions online). To remove just the DPF, it involves loosening 8 bolts, unplugging some sensors, dropping the DPF, and installing a piece of straight pipe. Probably an hour worth of time. For a complete turbo back exhaust (new downpipe, DPF and Nox delete pipe), probably two hours - with basic hand tools.

With the Smarty or XRT, you can remove all emission components, be code-free, and the tuner does all the work. So about 15 minutes of tuning time.

So for 1-3 hours of work, with basic hand tools, all the systems can be removed.

In my opinion, the bugs will never be worked out of the 6.7's as long as they use an aggressive EGR system. Sure, they play with the parameters with each new flash, but the turbo, intake grid, intake horn, and oil all take a beating with all the soot that is recirculated.

New Truck
2008 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax, EFI Live, 4" exhaust, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, more planned


Old Truck
2008 2500 6.7L CTD QCSB 4x4
12.05 @ 111.89 mph, 8800 DA 7/25/12 Fuel only

EFI Live, ATS Twin CP3's, 250hp nozzles, Full billet ATS 47RE w/standalone, Aurora 6000 75/83/1.10 AR, T4 two piece manifold, H-11's, 5.9 intercooler, AFE Stage 2, 5" turbo back no muffler, AirDog 150 X 2, DiPricol gauges, plugged fuel valve, 20x10 black Eagle Alloys on 305/50/R20 Nitto 420's
CDP6.7 is offline  
#10 Old 08-31-2009, 02:05 AM
reddot
I WISH I WAS GREEN
 
reddot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Wolf Point
Posts: 3,273
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
From what ive read(and only know from reading) if your going to do a lot of performance mods the 5.9 is the better choice but if your just going to run stock then there is nothing wrong with the 6.7 might even be better.

*Dark Nite*
2006 Ram 2500 CTD 4X4 QCSB Big Horn Black
Smarty Sr PoD-Pioneer P5000DVD-WeatherTech floor liners-Nerf Bars-LED tails and 3rd-Rok-Tek Grill-S&B Intake w/scoop-Isspro Performax gauges EGT, boost, trans temp, rail, fuel-Duel column mount pod-tri a-pillar pod mount-ATS intake horn-Cat delete-5in black chrome tip-roll up bed cover
*PROJECT HIATUS*
1998 Ram 1500 4X4 ECSB 360ci Magnum V8
K&N intake-PaceSetter LT header with custom 3in exhaust-Fiberglass 3in cowl hood-Open mouth grill-one peice Euro head light-LED tail lights-Bushwacker Extend-a-fender flares-Ram head gas door cover-Access roll up cover-Bully tailgate lock-5in Skyjacker lift-1in topguncustomz coil spacer-Skyjacker duel steering stabilizers-BD Diesel Steering box brace-37in ProComp Xterrain tires-16x10 ProComp rims-ProComps lug nuts-Painted interior-underdash LEDs-Reverse glow gauges
*PROJECT BLUE THUNDER*
2009 Victory Hammer S Blue with white rally stripes
Victory Performance exhaust-Two person seat-detachable wind shield

Science & Evolution Club Member #4
reddot is offline  
#11 Old 08-31-2009, 07:16 AM
GOD RAM IT
running on 6 cylinders
 
GOD RAM IT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Norwich, New York
Posts: 543
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
a stock 6.7 will not get as good fuel mileage as the stock 5.9.
I would say go to a 6.7 but as soon as you go to a DPF delete you can not run it with out a programmer that fools the DPF system. if the programmer is removed it will throw codes but doing the DPF delete will gain you at least 2mpg.

my vote is for a 5.9. tested and proven easy to mod

2004 CTD qd cab
smarty Sr., 5" xpandit exhaust, AFE intake with a amsoil nano filter
Diesel bombers member
GOD RAM IT is offline  
#12 Old 08-31-2009, 10:02 AM
CDP6.7
Senior Member
 
CDP6.7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 3,898
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by reddot View Post
From what ive read(and only know from reading) if your going to do a lot of performance mods the 5.9 is the better choice but if your just going to run stock then there is nothing wrong with the 6.7 might even be better.
That's partially true. 5.9's have a wealth of parts. However, 6.7's can use any 3rd Gen 5.9 performance turbo on the market, intercooler, exhaust manifold, etc. The only parts that are not interchangeable are the CP3 and injectors.

Heck, you can even swap a 48RE into a 6.7 truck. There are plenty of 6.7's making over 750 hp. Obviously, not stock. But I know of one guy making 700 rwhp with a 66 mm turbo, 80hp injectors, Wicked Diesel CP3, Smarty and upgraded intercooler. There are some compound twin turbo 6.7's making between 750-800 rwhp.

6.7's aren't quite on the level of 5.9's making 1000 rwhp. But it won't be long before they are there.

New Truck
2008 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax, EFI Live, 4" exhaust, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, more planned


Old Truck
2008 2500 6.7L CTD QCSB 4x4
12.05 @ 111.89 mph, 8800 DA 7/25/12 Fuel only

EFI Live, ATS Twin CP3's, 250hp nozzles, Full billet ATS 47RE w/standalone, Aurora 6000 75/83/1.10 AR, T4 two piece manifold, H-11's, 5.9 intercooler, AFE Stage 2, 5" turbo back no muffler, AirDog 150 X 2, DiPricol gauges, plugged fuel valve, 20x10 black Eagle Alloys on 305/50/R20 Nitto 420's
CDP6.7 is offline  
#13 Old 08-31-2009, 07:50 PM
me1magoo
Registered User
 
me1magoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,522
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Interesting info, I would be nervous to recommend that kind of surgery to someone who knows "nothing about diesels" for sure though. How would they know if there was a problem if the tuner is fooling everything into showing no codes or warning lights to them? I guess if someone has enough money though it doesn't matter, just dive in!

Mat
'05 3500 SRW CTD 6 Speed Manual QC LB 4X4 SLT
-Valair Organic/ Feramic 500 HP clutch w/ heavy duty hyd kit
-AeroTurbine 4040L Performance Muffler w/ Resonator
-Meg's 4" Polished Chrome Exhaust tip extension
-WigiDigit block heater bumper plug
-Bilstein 5100 "Silver/Black" shocks all four corners
-AEM Brute Force CAI polished finish
-Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader
-Autometer dash cubby hole 3 gauge pod
Di Pricol 1600* pyrometer- preturbo thermocouple installed in top of exhaust manifold
Di Pricol 60 PSI Boost guage- fitting installed directly in intake elbow
Di Pricol 100- 280* engine oil temp- sensor directly in oil filter housing
*The perfect match to the Dodge instrument cluster- they really look factory!
-Overhead 3 gauge pod
Di Pricol fuel lift pump pressure- sensor in billet aluminum fuel filter cap
Di Pricol fuel rail pressure- uses factory sensor to 27k psi
Di Pricol rear diff temp- still need to install diff cover with port to hook up
-Mag Hytec rear diff cover w/ sensor
-Valley 16K fifth wheel w/ clamp rail installation kit
-Ram LED lighted hitch plug
-Uniden CB radio mounted on side of center console w/ thru the glass antenna in right corner of rear window
-Tekonsha "Voyager" brake controller mounted in front of 4WD shifter
-Spray in "TOFF" Bed Liner
-AutoVentShade Smoke Bugshield & Window Ventshades
-Westin Signature Series Step Bars- Chrome
-Mopar Black splash guards front and rear
-Air Horns- 4 horns, two compressors under left side of front bumper
-Smith & Wesson .40 semi auto w/ two 14 rd magazines (just in case they don't hear the horns!)


'11 Crossroads Cruiser CF33LF 35' fifth wheel, front BR, full size bath, center living with rear living/ BR and loft above rear- all the options, dual A/C's, power awning- all the good stuff

me1magoo is offline  
#14 Old 08-31-2009, 07:58 PM
CDP6.7
Senior Member
 
CDP6.7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 3,898
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by me1magoo View Post
Interesting info, I would be nervous to recommend that kind of surgery to someone who knows "nothing about diesels" for sure though. How would they know if there was a problem if the tuner is fooling everything into showing no codes or warning lights to them? I guess if someone has enough money though it doesn't matter, just dive in!
The tuner only turns off the emission system codes - not the hundreds of others that are unrelated to the DPF or EGR. They've done a good job of just turning off the 6-10 emission system codes and leaving the rest active.

New Truck
2008 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax, EFI Live, 4" exhaust, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, more planned


Old Truck
2008 2500 6.7L CTD QCSB 4x4
12.05 @ 111.89 mph, 8800 DA 7/25/12 Fuel only

EFI Live, ATS Twin CP3's, 250hp nozzles, Full billet ATS 47RE w/standalone, Aurora 6000 75/83/1.10 AR, T4 two piece manifold, H-11's, 5.9 intercooler, AFE Stage 2, 5" turbo back no muffler, AirDog 150 X 2, DiPricol gauges, plugged fuel valve, 20x10 black Eagle Alloys on 305/50/R20 Nitto 420's
CDP6.7 is offline  
#15 Old 08-31-2009, 10:56 PM
Ram3500Dually
Administrator
 
Ram3500Dually's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,656
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
I am betting most that voted 5.9 have never owned or even driven a 6.7

2013 Ram 3500 CTD 6.7L 6 Speed Aisin, 4:10 LSD

2005 Jeep Liberty Sport

1991 Shadow ES Turbo Convertible

1984 Mini-Ram Van (Show Van) **TOTM April 2007** In museum now

73 Pro Street Duster.**VOTM July 2008/ April 2011**

1951 Dodge 3 Window Business Coupe **VOTM Feb 2011**

1992 Custom Built Harley FXSTC Show Bike

2008 Harley FLHTCU Ultra Classic


DodgeTalk Administrator


CTD Enthusiast Club Member #02


Names Carl, if you cut me I bleed Mopar Blue


Past Trucks: 90 CC Dually CTD, 94 RC LB CTD, 95 CC SB 5.2L gas, 98 QC Dually CTD, 00 QC Dually CTD, 01 QC Off Road, 03 QC Dually CTD, 05 QC Dually CTD, 08 Dually CTD **ROTM April 2008**,10 CC Dually CTD,



SUPPORT THOSE WHO SUPPORT DODGETALK

Ram3500Dually is offline  
#16 Old 09-01-2009, 01:49 AM
mitchgmace
Senior Member
 
mitchgmace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Grand Junction
Posts: 8,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm not a betting guy. But I'd buy a 6.7 and drive it a year or two then mod the hell out of it.
Still love my 5.9

2006 Ram 2500 5.9 CUMMINS TURBO DIESEL (325/610-stock ) 4x4 Standard Cab Long Bed 6-Speed - [SIZE=1]
Westin bed extender, LINE-X, Neopene seat covers
ATS Exhaust manifold/header
Muffler, Silencer ring, & Cat MIA, striaght pipe/stack
S&B CAI =Moe's, Byrd's Intake horn, Fass Fuel System
75hp injectors
Diablosport Predator Stacked with MP8 = Ton of HP
Dual disc clutch
Kore Recon lift 34" Swamper LTB's, Garmin Nav system
572hp/1077tq
Trucks and Guns Club #127
I spend my money on my truck and not my girlfriend, because I'll have it longer and less people have been in it! "
mitchgmace is offline  
#17 Old 09-01-2009, 01:53 AM
boostjunkie1
Registered User
 
boostjunkie1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I have owned 5 5.9L Cummins Dodges............Simple and very reliable! I had NV5600's and G56 Manuals and Loved them. Did have a 47re and a 48re that both gave me issues at very low miles. I know that there are allot of people that have 100k + out of stock tranny's at stock power levels......My luck with auto's sucks!!! The new 6.7L is a great engine for what it was designed to do- - -Haul and TOW HEAVY stuff...... No grocery getter and that is where the problems are occuring. Drive like a grandma to the store and back and you will be in Regen all the time. That equals poor mileage! If you are towing heavy and dont really care about 18+ MPG on the Highway empty get the 6.7l. If you are like me and like 99% reliability then get the 5.9l with a G56 6-Speed Manual. OR a 5.9l with a built tranny and the motor at stock levels. The 6.7l is awesome! The EGR junk and regen is NOT! Yes I have drove a 6.7L... Towed with a 6.7L..... With the G56 it is slower compared to a 5.9L...... With the Auto- - - -= Faster

AMSOIL TANK 2008 White, HEMI, 4X4, 3.92 Gears, Mickey T Classic III's w/FALKEN ATZ's 295/70/17E, Curt Front Hitch, Jason's EXTREME Topper.. Loaded...
boostjunkie1 is offline  
#18 Old 09-01-2009, 05:03 AM
wyat72
PAID OFF!!!
 
wyat72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,599
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
To me the way you are talking you want the biggest badest truck you can get. In that case you will want the 6.7.

But if you want stacks the emissions stuff might make it a little hard to do with a 6.7, you might need to move some of the exaust componets around if you dont to the PDF delete. With a 5.9 you can just cut the exaust under the cab and bring it up though the bed.

Truck: 08, Ram, 1500, HEMI, QuadCab, Big Horn, 4x4, Inferno Red, Chrome Grill, Chrome Molding, Chrome 20s

Appearance Mods: Chrome Mopar Tubular Side Steps, Chrome Mopar Bug Guard, Mopar Tow Mirrors, Mopar Mud Flaps & Wheel Liners, Mopar Tow Hooks, Putco Chrome Door Handle Covers, AMI Chrome Fuel Door, Curt Customized Hitch Cover, Bully Locking Tailgate Handle, ACI Vanish Tonneau, Line-X Bed Liner, Autospring 2" Leveling Kit, Cooper Zeon LTZs.

Performance Mods: SuperChips FlashPaq, Volant CAI, 12589 Magnaflow Muffler and Y-Pipe.

Red Truck Club Member #289
wyat72 is offline  
#19 Old 09-01-2009, 08:17 AM
Skyd Ram
DodgeTalk Sponsor
 
Skyd Ram's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Macomb TWP,Lewiston MI
Posts: 1,301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I have driven both and drove both at the time that I bought my 07 5.9 Megacab. In totally stock form I did like the 6.7 more due to the transmission probably and the engine brake was a nice feature. In the end I ending up getting the 5.9 because I couldn't come to grips with paying more money for a truck that got worse mileage and was only "slightly" faster. The addition of an EZ got my 5.9 to where the 6.7 felt as far as accelleration without all of the worries of the emissions junk that I got to pay extra for and then would have to pay more to remove just to get back to the mileage of a 5.9.

Granted, at the time I was able to still find some new 5.9's on the lot and the 6.7's were having alot of problems. Fast forward to 2009 and the "new" 5.9 is not an option and there have been big strides in both improvements from Chrysler as well as the aftermarket. It will untimately come down to what you can find for the money and what you are willing to do to the truck to achieve your goals.

2010 CCSB 2500 Laramie 6.7 Cummins
Carli/Bilstein/H&S/Flo Pro/aFe equipped

2008 RCLB F250 XLT 6.4 Powerstroke
Pure Performance/Bilstein/H&S/Flo Pro/aFe equipped

Official DodgeTalk Supporter

Authorized Dealer for:
Carli Suspension/Pure Performance Suspension/Bilstein Shocks
Dynatrac Products/BMF Wheels/MBRP Exhaust/AFE intakes and Exhaust/Smarty tuners

/H&S Performance/Flo Pro Exhaust/Edge Products



Call us Toll Free at: 888-886-2480


Find Us on Facebook

Skyd Ram is offline  
#20 Old 09-01-2009, 11:13 AM
GOD RAM IT
running on 6 cylinders
 
GOD RAM IT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Norwich, New York
Posts: 543
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
[QUOTE=Skyd Ram;3212169]I have driven both and drove both at the time that I bought my 07 5.9 Megacab. In totally stock form I did like the 6.7 more due to the transmission probably and the engine brake was a nice feature. In the end I ending up getting the 5.9 because I couldn't come to grips with paying more money for a truck that got worse mileage and was only "slightly" faster. The addition of an EZ got my 5.9 to where the 6.7 felt as far as accelleration without all of the worries of the emissions junk that I got to pay extra for and then would have to pay more to remove just to get back to the mileage of a 5.9.

QUOTE]

exactly how I based my vote. My buddy brought 6 dodges over to my house with 6.7s in that he was thinking of buying and I drove each one. they are nice but modding and fuel mileage was a concern with me.

2004 CTD qd cab
smarty Sr., 5" xpandit exhaust, AFE intake with a amsoil nano filter
Diesel bombers member
GOD RAM IT is offline  
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to use most of our features, you must first register.
Please enter your desired User Name, your Email Address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
The registration process requires you to activate your membership by following a link in an E-Mail that will be sent to you immediately upon completing this form. You must enter a valid email address or you will not receive this activation code and you will NOT be registered. Your E-Mail address is NOT publicly available to anyone as policy.

AOL E-MAIL USERS: Please click HERE for important info pertaining to your e-mail address.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome