Grinding noise from rear on acceleration and braking - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 07-08-2004, 11:36 PM
Dodged Eigoh
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Question Grinding noise from rear on acceleration and braking

Help!! I have a grinding noise from rear on acceleration and braking only. If I just coast along (<5mph up to 60mph) I hear nothing. When I start out at the slow speed, you hear rubbing and then grinding and finally a clicking/tapping noise. When I let off the gas, it goes away (at least dies down until un hearable). Then when I brake, it comes back tapping grinding. The breaking is worse with higher speeds and so is acceleration, worse with harder acceleration. I looked under the truck (quick 10 minute gazing around on a roller) and there is no leaking fluid, no brake dust on rear rims, no obvious signs. Only weird thing (may or may not be) was that about an hour or so after rush hour commute home, the rear differential (gear box?) was still warm to the touch.... Going to bring it in tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas so I am not COMPLETELY reliant on what repair man says..

Thanks!!!

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#2 Old 07-09-2004, 08:37 AM
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pinion bearing!???

sounds like the pinion bearings are the problem, or possibly if you have a track lock carrier the clutches came apart. not sure with out hearing it!!!

let me know what u find
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#3 Old 07-09-2004, 08:46 AM
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Hmmm...

Pinion Bearings in the rear? I am not completely knowledgeable about the workings of a 4x4 drive train.... Also, its the standard 4x4 rear end of a 2000 1500 SLT Laramie if that helps with the "track lock carrier". What is this? Thanks, you are making the truck repair world one person less stupid by helping me out!! Much appreciated!

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#4 Old 07-09-2004, 08:47 AM
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Diagnosing Noise, Part 1
January, 1998

Many things can go wrong inside a differential. Although the hints are often
subtle, most impending failures give fair warning in the form of noise.

Several situations can create ring-and-pinion noise. If the gears have been
quiet and begin to howl, they are probably worn or wearing. If the gears howl
during deceleration only, it's possible that the pinion-bearing preload has
loosened. Howling under acceleration at all speeds indicates that something in
the differential -- gears, pinion or carrier bearings -- has worn or no longer
keeps the gear alignment correct. If the gears howl while accelerating over a
certain speed range, but not all speeds, it's likely that the gears are worn
due to lubrication failure or overloading. When a newly installed gear set
howls, suspect the design or setup.

A common problem is worn carrier bearings, as indicated by a low-pitch rumble
above 20 mph. On vehicles with C-clip axles the noise may vary while
negotiating turns. Worn pinion bearings can cause whirring noises at all
speeds, under deceleration and/or acceleration. Pinion bearings tend to whir,
rather than rumble because the pinion is turning several times faster
(depending on gear ratio) that the carrier. Badly worn bearings can also cause
howl if they do not support the gears correctly.

Worn wheel bearings can be difficult to determine. A very bad wheel bearing
typically makes itself heard with great clarity; it's the bearing that is
going bad, but not destroyed that is hard to find. Turning back and forth from
hard right to hard left can identify the culprit; however, I've been fooled by
right-front wheel bearings that make noise when turning right (which heavily
loads the inside-left-front wheel bearing, but also loads the
outside-right-front bearing).

One common situation that may not make any noise: The pinion spins, but the
tires don't rotate. Broken spider gears can render the differential immobile,
and usually make a loud, crunching sound as they make their final departure. A
broken ring gear will allow the differential to propel the vehicle for about
eight feet at a time, then bang or grind as the section with broken teeth
tries to engage the pinion. Depending on ratio, a broken pinion tooth (or
teeth) will clunk about every two or three feet.

A broken axle is easily determined. After it breaks, a C-clip design axle can
be pulled out of the housing without unbolting anything -- or may even find
it's own way out. On many bolt-in-design axles, the wheel will give the broken
axle shaft away by cambering in at an angle.

A high spot on a gear tooth may sound similar to a broken gear, but will only
make noise while accelerating or decelerating, since the spot appears on just
one side of the offending tooth. A high spot on the ring gear will make a
heavy clicking sound about every eight feet; a high spot on the pinion makes
noise every two or three feet and is much more pronounced due to its higher
frequency.

Whether large or small, differential noise is telling you something. Listen
carefully! If in doubt, pull off the cover or remove the third member for a
closer look. Catching a bad part before is ruins others is definitely worth
the effort.

Diagnosing Noise, Part 2
February, 1998

If you've been left hanging with a "mystery" differential noise that still
refuses to make itself clearly understood, then hopefully this month's info
will lend some more insight.

Anyone who has been involved with four-wheel-drive vehicles has probably heard
of or experienced positraction (posi) "chatter". Posi chatter is noise that is
very recognizable and happens when there is too much friction in the clutches.
Some hard-core offroaders set up their posi this way intentionally. The noise
sounds like someone is pounding on the rearend with a huge sledgehammer. It is
most prevalent when backing up in a parking lot (when everyone around can
stare), and gets worse as the differential heats up. It also tends to show up
on freeway off-ramps and when turning while taking off from a stop sign.

Broken spider gears can sound similar to posi chatter, only more consistent,
regardless of oil temperature. Broken spider gears will make a grinding or
banging sound any time the vehicle is making a turn, and, if they are bad
enough, even when going straight.

Driveline vibrations can be caused by several problems. Worn universal
joints or a driveline that is out of balance are often the problem, but
driveline angle can cause a balanced driveline with good U-joints to vibrate.
If the U-joints are bad, they can cause several different noises from
squeaking, to clunking, to grinding, to vibrations. If the driveline is out of
balance, it will vibrate with a steady pitch that increases as the vehicle
speed increases. If the pinion shaft is out of alignment and not parallel to
the transmission yoke, the difference in the angles between the front and back
U-joints can cause the driveline to vibrate. If the vibration is due to
improper angles, it will create a cyclic sound that increases and decreases in
intensity and is not steady. An out-of-alignment problem can also be
identified by the change in the noise when accelerating or decelerating. As
the pinion yoke torques up from acceleration or down from deceleration, the
rear U-joint angle changes and causes the vibration to change.

A worn side-gear bore in the carrier case will usually cause a clicking sound
as the vehicle is coasting down from speeds of about 20 miles per hour to a
stop. If the bore that supports the side gear becomes too worn to hold the
side gear in place the side gear will "roll over" the spider pinion gears and
will make a clicking noise.

If your differential problem is still not clear and you don't want to take the
time to look inside for more data, you can always drive it until it breaks and
the problem will be much clearer, although much more expensive.

Much more similar differential and gear tech articles at:
http://www.ring-pinion.com/tech/techind.html
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#5 Old 07-09-2004, 08:52 AM
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self locking differential

trak lock is when one wheel will start to spin the clutches lock inside to lock the rear into a posi!!!
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#6 Old 07-09-2004, 09:16 AM
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Is a "Drive axle housing" in the rear the same as a differential? Trying to determine if my extend-o warranty will cover this.....

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#7 Old 07-14-2004, 01:37 AM
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good luck!

My Experience ----> http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/show...light=rear+end

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#8 Old 07-14-2004, 08:11 AM
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Thanks!

Hey Y'all!

Thanks for the help and recommendations. They tried to tell me it was my tires and although they do need to be replaced, I stayed on them about the differential or ? After they drove it and put it up, they "discovered" that it was the U-joints that were going out.... They replaced them and the rear is now nice and quiet! Ahhhh...

Thanks for the information supplied, much appreciated. The best thing about this board, if someone doesnt have the exact answer, they will find it -Thanks HankL and others!!

Im out truckin' if your lookin'!

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