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racer190
 
  Remove Proportioning Valve? - Posted: 12-17-2008, 08:29 PM
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Post #1

Would removing the proportioning valve mess up or set off the abs light? My truck is a '92 with rear wheel abs. I know the valve is supposed to limit the amount of brake pressure to the rear wheels, and keep them from locking up during hard stops, but wouldnt the abs do the same thing, even with the valve removed? Under hard stops once the rear wheels start to lock up the abs kicks in and limits brake pressure, and you start to feel it in the pedal correct? There are no abs connectors or anything going to the proportioning valve are there?
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dodgef25
 
 Posted: 12-17-2008, 11:12 PM
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Post #2

Yes it will. It has a sensor to check if there is a pressure difference in between the front and rear. The abs just pulses the brakes to keep the wheel turning a little, it does not limit the pressure. It goes on off on off, when on its full pressure.

So why do you want to remove the proprtioning valve anyway? When safty is a concern you shouldnt remove anything!
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Tsk350
 
 Posted: 12-18-2008, 06:24 AM
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Post #3

Ya im curious why you would want to remove the valve as well?? If you have to deal with ice and snow you will be in a world of hurt if you remove that valve. I can picture it now you slow down for a red light and the next thing you know is your doing 360s.
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racer190
 
 Posted: 12-18-2008, 12:37 PM
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Post #4

Ive got a feeling mine is bad. Wheels cylinders do no leak and are not stuck, master cylinder is good, and there are no rear brakes. Its got new lines and fluid also. They want almost 300 bucks for one from mopar.
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Tsk350
 
 Posted: 12-19-2008, 03:26 PM
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Post #5

Well then a better option than runnin without one is to go to a wrecking yard and grab one there. Hell grab two or three.
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moe7404
 
 Posted: 12-19-2008, 03:52 PM
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Post #6

moe in wichita ks
years ago mopar had an adjustable proportioning valve. a lot of non-mopart people used on street rods ect. but i dont know if they still make it. iam sure some one will know. happy hunting
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dodgef25
 
 Posted: 12-19-2008, 04:54 PM
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Post #7

Summit racing does have an adjustable one but get a dak. spacific one would be best. Jukyard. or ebay.
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kprey73
 
 Posted: 12-19-2008, 09:15 PM
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Post #8

do you get good fluid flow from the rear brakes when you blead them?

guessing that the Proportional valve is probly stuck
Try bleeding the RR, LF, LR, RF do this a couple times - push the pedal easy for this, you should hear and feel a light click in the brake pedal ( this is the valve returning to the center ). this should bring the proportional valve back to the center, you still might have to bleed the brakes more, start from the farthest away from the master and work to it.....

when you are bleeding the brakes are you bleeding the ABS valve? are the rear brakes adjusted correctly?

there are a lot of possibilities but I bet the Proportional valve is stuck once the valve is returned to center you will have all kinds of rear brakes...

hope this helps...
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moe7404
 
 Posted: 12-19-2008, 09:57 PM
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moe in wichita ks
is that the valve that has a switch in the middle?
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dodgef25
 
 Posted: 12-20-2008, 01:25 AM
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Post #10

Quote:
Originally Posted by moe7404 View Post
moe in wichita ks
is that the valve that has a switch in the middle?
Yes it is!
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racer190
 
 Posted: 12-20-2008, 06:14 PM
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Post #11

Im gonna grab one from the boneyard off a truck with a little lower mileage, i mean come on you cant blame it for not working as my truck has 242,000 on it.
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moe7404
 
 Posted: 12-20-2008, 06:32 PM
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Post #12

moe in wichita ks
i have seen cross sectional views in service manuals. can they be taken apart and cleaned up? i have never had trouble from one . but i have never put that many miles on one. i think 1967was the first year for them, that was the first year the gov required dual master cyls i think. but it seams to me that each car/truck would need a different bias. 1967 also was the first year for a collapseable steering column, one saved my dads life in a 1967 dodge charger. strange what one can remember if your brain gets joged.
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sloggerIII
 
 Posted: 02-24-2009, 06:51 PM
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Post #13

haveing the same problem with my brakes except they were fine untill the front brake line brust and then had to change the other front one because got alittle angry when it would not come free but now have no pedal even after bleeding all four wheels about 30 times each, fluid comes out right away when bleed even brke loose all lines to and from master still no pedal, also before the blow out everything worked just fine

Last edited by sloggerIII : 02-24-2009 at 07:43 PM.
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moe7404
 
 Posted: 02-24-2009, 09:03 PM
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Post #14

one way to bleed a brake system,if you dont have a power bleeder. is to use two guys, one in the drivers seat one under the truck. be sure and put anti-sieze compound on ALL the threads you take apart, in 50k mile you will be glad you did. the main thing to remember is that the guy under the truck is the boss, and NEVER let the master cyl get dry. the first thing is have the pumper push on the pedel at the same time the bleeder is open, this pushes air out. when the pedel gets to the bottom the pumper says "bottom" at that the bleeder guy quickly closes the bleeder. rule 2 NEVER let the pedel come up with the bleeder valve open, cause that will suck air in to the system. remember that this will have to be done over, over, over, over, you will get tired, but keep it up. some times they will bleed by just opening the valve, and wait it might just come flowing out, i have had it happen when i was alone. but NEVER let the master cyl get dry
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DakotaChaos
 
 Posted: 02-25-2009, 07:53 AM
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Post #15

im having the same problem. i had zero rear brakes, then i replaced all internals and bled them. for the first 15 miles give or take i had rear brakes. now a week or two later i have none again. they're adjusted right so maybe i should do the same.
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sloggerIII
 
 Posted: 02-27-2009, 02:32 PM
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Post #16

I gave up took my 1995 dakota into the shop found both front cal;ipers were bad and both drums were wore down to nothting and rear axil seals were leaking on to the drum pads all replaced $613.00 down the drain on a truck that i paid only $800.00 for two weeks ago nice huh Im going to the guys house and grap him by the back of the head and kick him in the ass!
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moe7404
 
 Posted: 02-27-2009, 06:02 PM
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Post #17

found some good brake info.
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/brakelines.htm
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