How Do I Install Manual Locking Hubs - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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sel
 
  How Do I Install Manual Locking Hubs - Posted: 08-12-2008, 11:39 AM
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Post #1

how do i install manually locking hubs and what brand should i get...whats the difference between internal and external locking hubs
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dsertdog56
 
 Posted: 08-12-2008, 10:01 PM
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Post #2

I can't tell from your pic if you have a 1500 or larger, but EMS is the place to get them. Eric puts out an exceptional product.

I'm not sure what you meant by external/internal. The cad assembly on your front axle locks the two piece axle together internally.
The external locking hubs do just that. But you have to turn the handle to lock them to the axle internally. Technicaly speaking you can eliminate the two piece axle and the cad unit. EMS sells the axle as well.

Last edited by dsertdog56 : 08-12-2008 at 10:07 PM.
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sel
 
 Posted: 08-12-2008, 10:29 PM
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Post #3

1500 is the size of mine...is it worth the conversion?
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sel
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 06:06 PM
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Post #4

ahhhhhh.....im gonna buy them this fall...but is it really worth it to have them i never had manuals before
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tkirk
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 06:39 PM
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Post #5

if you dont mind getting out to lock them in they are better in the long run less wear and tear on your spider gears in the front axle
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sel
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 06:41 PM
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Post #6

really how often does one put it in 4wheel drive on the road...i might have done it 10 times last year...not too much to be too big of a pain i suppose
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tkirk
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 07:08 PM
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Post #7

the only pain is when your fender deep in a mud hole and realize you forgot to lock in the hubs not that this has ever happened to me or anything.....lol
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sel
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 08:40 PM
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Post #8

ya i suppose that would be a pain in the ass...lol...im a while before i get into that anyway...i want a lift first and now im doing all the stuff i need to do before the lift...hubs, upgraded rockers, lower gears, pushbar...etc and then finish off with the lift so i dont wear anything out cause i didnt change this or that first...that and i got 80% new tires on it...like to wear them out first before buying new tires...just trying to figure out what size tires..33s or 35s...i want to still to be able to use my truck as a truck and not sure if 35s will be too big to be able to get 4wheeler in and out and move house hold stuff...what u think...never seen my truck with 35s on it
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dsertdog56
 
 Posted: 08-13-2008, 09:09 PM
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Post #9

Non Locking hubs give you the advantage of not turning your entire differential assembly while driving. It eliminates any parasitic drag from spider gears to front driveshaft. This benefit is even more useful if a locker were installed. They also put less side stress on your axles when turning, and give you 2wd low for certain towing situations.
It also eliminates the failure prone unibearing with bearings you can service and repack (provided you do that). And, it also eliminates the even more faliure prone CAD assembly (which replaced locking hubs)!
I believe this mod is useful with any tire over 33 inches, especially mudders. They tend to "squrim" or "push" in tight turns in 2 wd
I don't believe you'd notice a large mileage gain.

I had an 81 W-150 with lock outs. Yes its a pain to get out and twist them, but I used 2 low in many situations instead of 4 wd.

Last edited by dsertdog56 : 08-13-2008 at 09:15 PM.
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lower
 
 Posted: 08-14-2008, 05:45 PM
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Post #10

With a simple vac. pump you can have 2wd low even with the stock setup
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audiomechanic
 
 Posted: 08-14-2008, 09:16 PM
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Post #11

What about a Posi-lok?

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html

I'm thinking bout doing that to my truck in the future to get rid of the vacuum actuated CAD. This will give you 2-low as well.
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Bought at 93,000 miles. Repairs to date:
-Rebuilt tranny and installed aftermarket tranny cooler
-Fixed exhaust leak
-Replaced drivers side tie rod, Lukes Linked the rest (including trac bar)
-Replaced Both wheel bearing hubs
-Replaced front u-joints
-Replaced power steering pump
-Replaced passenger side brake hose
-Replaced upper ball joints
-Replaced ALL fluids front to back
-Installed Maxxis Buckshot 33X12.50's
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-Modded CPS bracket to advance timing about 4*
-Changed plugs over to Autolites
-Replaced water pump
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-Modded kegger and TB
- replaced driver's side wheel bearing hub (again)
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AT13
 
 Posted: 08-14-2008, 11:28 PM
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Post #12

its not worth the money on the second gen trucks for manual locking hubs if its not gonna be a wheeler and its just gonna be a driver. i put manual locking hubs on my old 85 dodge but the hubs only cost me $80 and i just flipped the CAD unit around so its allways locked. there nice but i miss the CAD because if you do go in a mud hole with the CAD all you gotta do is pull a lever and you got 4 wheel, rather then getting out and locking hubs in the mud.
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