2001 Dodge caravan w/3.8L tranny codes p0700 & p0740 - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 01-04-2008, 12:25 PM
Caravan-N-Sand
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Question 2001 Dodge caravan w/3.8L tranny codes p0700 & p0740

Hello all any help would be grateful. My Caravan has just over 105,000 miles on it. I just went on a 2300 mile road trip in the van, and at about 1500 mile point my engine light came on. I checked it with an obII scanner and codes P0700, and P0740 was active. I cleared the code and once I hit 50 mph it came back on. I did a little research already on the codes and if I understand it right it's not shifting into 5th gear. I can't remember word for word, but the P0700 is letting me know I have a transmission problem, and the P0740 is letting me know that the clutch solenoid for the torque convertor.

My main questions are?

1.) What am I looking at in repairs?

2.) What am I looking at in cost of repairs?

3.) If it's not shifting into 5th gear, what will I do to the van if we're still driving it around until we can get it repaired.

4.) I live 30 miles west of Phoenix Arizona. Who should I take it to to have it checked out? I heard that dealers are not always the best for transmission problems, and I know the will most likely charge the most per hour also.


Thank you
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#2 Old 01-05-2008, 08:41 AM
hcmq
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I don't think you have a 5th gear unless you have some sort of special model.

It sounds like the famous solenoid pack is failing.

When was the last time the tranny was serviced and what fluid was used?
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#3 Old 01-05-2008, 09:10 AM
Caravan-N-Sand
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Most likely never.

We bought the van used with about 70,000 miles, and I have never had the tranny in for a service. How much is a solenoid pack to change?
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#4 Old 01-05-2008, 04:52 PM
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I had the exact same problem. It is nearly certain that you need to replace the torque converter which requires removing the transmission. Here's my write up-- It will tell you more than you wanted to know. The removing the transmission part is a couple pages in.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150579

2003 Durango SLT
AWD, 4.7l
Mods: Remote Start
Just got a new set of BFG All-Terrains
Planning retrofit to 4WABS

1999 Durango SLT+
4x4, 5.2l
Mods: B&M Supercooler, Ford OEM Remote Start/Keyless Entry/Alarm, Heated Seats

01 T&C Limited 3.8l
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#5 Old 01-05-2008, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcmq
I don't think you have a 5th gear unless you have some sort of special model.

It sounds like the famous solenoid pack is failing.

When was the last time the tranny was serviced and what fluid was used?
Everyone told me that I should start with the solenoid pack too, but that's incorrect. I wasted money on one only to find that it wasn't necessary. Read my thread and you'll understand.

2003 Durango SLT
AWD, 4.7l
Mods: Remote Start
Just got a new set of BFG All-Terrains
Planning retrofit to 4WABS

1999 Durango SLT+
4x4, 5.2l
Mods: B&M Supercooler, Ford OEM Remote Start/Keyless Entry/Alarm, Heated Seats

01 T&C Limited 3.8l
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#6 Old 01-05-2008, 09:52 PM
tactransman
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Listen to Rick,he has already been through what you are going through.

Terry aka tactransman
'99 Ram 1500 4X4 5.9 Automatic #110 in the White Truck Club

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#7 Old 01-07-2008, 11:52 PM
Caravan-N-Sand
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Great Help

Thank you Rick for a great post you have definitely headed me in the right direction. I do have some questions on the pressure test and what port I plug into and what pressures I need to see, but I'm going to read through your post again and see if I can find the information myself with the links you put in your post.

Also thank you Tactransman nice to know there's a few experts out there helping us.


Ken

Last edited by Caravan-N-Sand; 01-07-2008 at 11:59 PM.
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#8 Old 01-08-2008, 12:19 AM
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Help

Alright Rick, I can't find the info I thought I read the other day.

1.) Which one of the ports do I hook upto and what pressure should I see?
2.) Then take it on a test drive and at about 50 mph the pressures go to 0, which means my hyd. side of the issue is working fine and I need a T/C?
3.) Since I do not have a DRBII. How will I know what the issue is if I don't see my pressures drop to 0, and they remain the same?
4.) Is that when I throw a solenoid pack at it, and see if I get lucky?
5.) Also do I need to clear the code before I go on my test drive?

Thats all I can think of now, I won't beable to do these test until Thursday or Friday, but I 'll keep you posted and if I have any other questions I'll be posting.

Ken

*Edited*
After reading back through Ricks post looks like I plug into the "CC Off Test Port" <---- To dark to go look at the van right now, but is that port marked (CC Off)?

Last edited by Caravan-N-Sand; 01-08-2008 at 12:25 AM.
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#9 Old 01-08-2008, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caravan-N-Sand
Alright Rick, I can't find the info I thought I read the other day.

1.) Which one of the ports do I hook upto and what pressure should I see?
2.) Then take it on a test drive and at about 50 mph the pressures go to 0, which means my hyd. side of the issue is working fine and I need a T/C?
3.) Since I do not have a DRBII. How will I know what the issue is if I don't see my pressures drop to 0, and they remain the same?
4.) Is that when I throw a solenoid pack at it, and see if I get lucky?
5.) Also do I need to clear the code before I go on my test drive?

Thats all I can think of now, I won't beable to do these test until Thursday or Friday, but I 'll keep you posted and if I have any other questions I'll be posting.

Ken

*Edited*
After reading back through Ricks post looks like I plug into the "CC Off Test Port" <---- To dark to go look at the van right now, but is that port marked (CC Off)?
So you know, the entire pressure test procedure and the charts showing the appropriate pressures and conditions are shown starting at page 21-134 of the Neon service manual that I linked. It's the 4th pressure port from the left. The pressure should read 100 and then with the van moving at least 50mph with the throttle at less than 10% (basically when you're cruising downhill or on level ground on the highway), you should see the pressure drop below 5psi. Just get up to speed and cruise with the throttle barely pressed for a while-- do this a couple times. If you don't see the pressure drop, then you have a hydraulic problem. The DRBIII is nice to confirm when the computer is commanding lock-up, but is not necessary for the test.

There is not an independent solenoid for the converter clutch in these transmissions-- it is controlled by means of the L/R solenoid, so if you're not having trouble with low and reverse gears the solenoid pack is probably good and a failure of the pressure test would indicate a problem with the valve body.

It's probably the converter clutch. My van only had about 57,000 miles, but with your milage on the tranny, you may want to get it rebuilt since you are removing it or paying to have it removed anyway (depending on cost and whether you plan on keeping the van for any length of time).

2003 Durango SLT
AWD, 4.7l
Mods: Remote Start
Just got a new set of BFG All-Terrains
Planning retrofit to 4WABS

1999 Durango SLT+
4x4, 5.2l
Mods: B&M Supercooler, Ford OEM Remote Start/Keyless Entry/Alarm, Heated Seats

01 T&C Limited 3.8l
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#10 Old 01-13-2008, 09:20 PM
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Did Pressure Test

Psi was 86 @ idle when cold
Psi was 80 @ idle @ Oper. Temp
Psi did drop below 5 psi when on test drive

It did jump back and forth from below 5psi and 70ish psi has I slowed down and speed back up, but always staying above 50 mph's <-------- IS THIS NORMAL?


Does anyone know whats the best tranny shop on the west side of Phoenix, AZ??


Thanks for everyones Help!
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#11 Old 01-13-2008, 11:02 PM
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I can't remember if 86 is in spec, but the pressure drop behavior is correct. When you go to accelerate, it should unlock the clutch and then lock again when your speed stabilizes. Unless you're looking to have the tranny rebuilt, your regular shop should be able to do this-- it's really just a tranny remove-and-replace sort of thing. If you think you want to get the tranny rebuilt b/c of the milage and you have a regular shop, you may be better going through them anyway (even if they farm out the rebuild). The tranny shop will see you as a one-shot deal, where your regular shop will not.

I've heard of shops telling people they must do a complete rebuild for this-- sometimes saying that the friction material from the TCC went through the tranny. That doesn't seem very legit to me. Definately have them drop the pan and change the filter-- there was lots of friction material in my pan, but that's what the filter is for, to keep debris in the pan.

2003 Durango SLT
AWD, 4.7l
Mods: Remote Start
Just got a new set of BFG All-Terrains
Planning retrofit to 4WABS

1999 Durango SLT+
4x4, 5.2l
Mods: B&M Supercooler, Ford OEM Remote Start/Keyless Entry/Alarm, Heated Seats

01 T&C Limited 3.8l

Last edited by Rick99; 01-13-2008 at 11:09 PM.
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#12 Old 01-14-2008, 11:52 AM
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I rebuilt my transmission, but when I was considering purchasing a rebuilt one I ran across a place in Phoenix that sells rebuilt transmissions and installs them. They might be able to help you. I have no experience or relationship to them and can not recommend them one way or another. Here is there web site.

www.phoenixhardparts.com

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