Caravan power steering pump-- remove top or bottom? - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 10-11-2007, 07:37 PM
dodge_duh
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Caravan power steering pump-- remove top or bottom?

Hello, I have a bad powersteering pump on a 2000 Dodge Caravan. From looking at the tightly packed mounting hardware on the top of the pump, it looks like it may be easier to get it out from the bottom.

Just wondering if anyone has done this, and if so what has to come off the bottom to get the pump out? It looks like maybe the passenger-side axle, oil-pan, or this rectangular stamped frame support piece that goes across the vehicle under the bottom of the firewall all could be candidates

Anyone have any idea how the garage only estimates 2 1/2 hours for what looks like a 2 1/2 day job to take it out the top?

Thanks a million for any help.
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#2 Old 10-12-2007, 03:52 PM
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From the manual:
Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the battery and isolate cable.
Remove cap from power steering fluid reservoir.
Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting, in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this service manual for the required lifting procedure.
Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness from the vehicle wiring harness. Access to connection at vehicle wiring harness is through the oxygen sensor wiring harness grommet in the floor pan of the vehicle
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed from the engine to allow for an area to remove the power steering pump from the vehicle.

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold. Then remove all the exhaust system hangers/isolators from the brackets on the exhaust system.
Move the exhaust system as far rearward and to the left side of the vehicle as possible Exhaust Position For Removing Power Steering Pump
Raise the heat sleeve on the power steering hoses to expose the hose to steel tube connection. Remove the hose from the power steering fluid return line on the front suspension cradle Power Steering Return Hose At Return Line Allow the remaining power steering fluid to drain from the pump and fluid reservoir through the removed return hose.
Remove the accessory drive splash shield Accessory Drive Splash Shield
Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt from the engine Serpentine Drive Belt And Routing See Cooling, Group 7 for detailed removal procedure.
Remove the power steering fluid supply hose coming from the remote fluid reservoir, from the fitting on the power steering pump Power Steering Hoses At Power Steering Pump Drain off excess power steering fluid from hose.
Remove the power steering fluid pressure line Power Steering Hoses At Power Steering Pump from the power steering pump. Drain excess power steering fluid from tube.
Remove the power steering fluid return hose Power Steering Hoses At Power Steering Pump from the power steering pump. Drain excess power steering fluid from tube.
Remove the support bracket at the rear of the power steering pump attaching the pump to the rear of the engine Power Steering Pump Support Bracket
Remove the 3 bolts mounting the power steering pump to the alternator/power steering pump and belt tensioner mounting bracket Power Steering Pump Mounting Bolts
Remove the power steering pump from its mounting bracket.
The power steering pump is removed from the vehicle by pulling it out through the exhaust tunnel area in the floor pan of the vehicle.
If transferal of the power steering pump pulley is necessary, refer to DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY in this section of the service manual.

All this and then you have to put it back together...2.5 hours sounds like a deal!
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#3 Old 10-12-2007, 11:30 PM
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hemimech, thanks a lot for posting the manual info. I'm assuming you have this on CD so you didn't have to type it . If you did then thanks even more. I'm planning to give it a try tomorrow, so the timing was right on. Hopefully will have it off by the time car talk is over (10a-11a on our local NPR station)

I haven't had to work on this car much yet, so haven't invested in the manuals-- was a little put off by the fact that there is a half-dozen or so, instead of one or two. However, the time has come to visit the dealer and order some. Also two and a half hours does sound like a good deal, but part of the fun is trying new jobs, and learning to do it myself. Anyway, thanks again for the info.
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#4 Old 10-13-2007, 07:54 PM
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Good luck. On the 3.3L the catalytic converter is not easy to remove and the bolts are probably going to have to be cut off. The p/s pump mounts to a bracket that have the mounting bolts between the pulley and the pump. they are not easy to get to and there is a trick to get the back one with a long piece of wood hitting a wrench through the engine compartment. The pulley is hard to get off and hard to get on. You have to use a puller tool that you can rent from Advance Auto. Make sure you get the plugs for the back of the pump housing.

I did it by removing the steering knuckle and pulling the drive axle. It took me about 6 hours to get it all done. 2.5 hours is billing for a seasoned ASE certified mechanic that has done dozens of these changes. Not someone who has never done it before, doing it in their driveway or garage.
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#5 Old 10-15-2007, 07:32 AM
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Thanks, XDGT03, for the response, If I hadn't been under the car on Saturday, and had read your post, it would have saved me a 2nd trip to the autoparts store to retrieve the plugs from the old pump-- I took it off and left it at the store when I bought the new one, trying to avoid a 2nd trip.

I was considering removing the axle, but wasn't sure if I could do it without messing up the alignment, as it was just done a couple of months ago. Did you have to get it realligned?

I sprayed the bolts on the converter with liquid wrench, and started unhooking the pump. After getting it unbolted and all the hoses and tubes unhooked, I started looking for the floor access plate to unplug the O2 sensor in the tailpipe from the harness, like in the manual page above to take off the exhaust.

Took the bottom of the center console off, but there were no wires from there routed down under the carpet. Started wondering if the exhaust had to come all the way off. While looking at the converter "tunnel", I guessed that I could just push the converter to the drivers side, and the pump might fit without taking off the exhaust.

After another shot liquid wrench and a long coffee break while it 'worked', I was able to get the bolts off of the converter. It took a little jiggling, but by pushing the converter all the way up and to the left, I was able to get the pump out.

Another note for someone searching this forum before doing the job. There is a squeeze-type clamp on the filler tube hose on top of the pump. It is way easier to connect this before bolting the new pump into place.

I was at this for about nine hours total. A lot of the time was spent scratching my head, considering different options for what to take off, looking for the harness connector for the O2 sensor, and driving to the autoparts store twice.

Thanks again for the help.
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#6 Old 10-15-2007, 10:42 AM
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Awesome work. Great info. Glad it all worked out for you. It is not the typical pump removal. Those with mechanical experience will be able to figure it out. I did not have to do an alignment afterward. I spray painted the strut and knuckle so I just put it all back together they same way it was when I started and it drives fine.
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