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#1 Old 09-07-2007, 11:32 PM
Scotty1
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Running Hot

Hi People; I have a 2000 Dakota 4X4 Quad Cab with a 4.7L, Auto. It did not come with the factory tow package on it. It has 54,000 miles on it. This year it just started running warm, and it runs some crazy temps sometimes. During normal running at highway speeds with or without the air on, it runs about 200 degrees when it is about 75 degrees out. When it is 90 out it will run 210 degrees. If i get stuck in traffic, without air on, it runs about 210, and the electric fan is not on. If I turn on the air in traffic, it cools down to about 195-200, and the fan is on. Today, the electric fan without the air on came on, but had to exceed 210 degrees, maybe 220. I have never overheaed it, or boiled out any antifreeze. I replaced the radiator cap, because the rubber seal was swelled and was binding in the hole. I replaced the fan belt, because the outside was glazed, and thought maybe the fan pully was slipping on it. Today it was 95 out, and it got up around 215-220, so I pulled into the driveway, turned off the air, and let it idle. After about 10 minutes, the electric fan was still on, and it cooled down to about 200. I'm not sure where to go next. I have a new thermostat to pui in , and think the radiator may be partially plugged. Never added stop leak or anything. Maybe the waterpump is bad. My questions are, what are some common problems for running hot on this model. How many cores did the standard radiator come with, and how may cores for the heavy duty cooling system that came with the tow package. One online radiator place tried to sell me a one core radiator, is this right? I have found several two core radiators for it, but think it may need a three core. Could the fan clutch be bad? The only time I hear it roar is when it is cold. After that it never roars again, until it is cold again. I have just started pulling a 3900 pound camper, and want to put on heavy duty cooling and a trans cooler anyway. I also read that the diff had synthetic gear oil in it with the towing package, what about the transmission, just standard fluid? Thanks for the advice. Seeya Scotty1

Last edited by Scotty1; 09-07-2007 at 11:44 PM. Reason: forgot something
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#2 Old 09-10-2007, 10:13 PM
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Take your pressure cap off and if you see any milky residue then get a cooling system flush done. Is this new thermostat a 195 degree or a 180? I'd get a 180 if it is isn't. Perhaps your electric fan is temp adjustable? You'd have to check with the dealer if synthetic diff fluid was put in at the factory. In my 2000 D it just had standard gear oil in it from the factory. I changed it over to syn just last year for better piece of mind and to extend the service interval. The transmission takes ATF+4 fluid (Chrysler specific), nothing else is recommended but there are a few synthetic ATF fluids on the market that are compatible to DCX specifications to use in the transmission. If your fluids have never been changed at 54K they're all overdue. I'm guessing you purchased the D used and in that case I would have had them changed right away if I was unsure of the maintenance records. Adding a trans cooler is definitely a good idea if you plan to tow or not. It might even be wise to change over to synthetic motor oil if you already haven't done so, it'll decrease the chance of sludge down the road if the engine doesn't seem to be wanting to cool down! Hope that helps a bit.

2000 5.9 R/T - Platinum
144,000m (233,000kms)
Amsoil in the diffs, transfer case and engine - Hughes Plenum - Fastman 52mm TB - K&N FIPK - SCT tuner currently set at 87 octane - Magnaflow 15659 exhaust

My 2000 R/T
2000 R/T Factory service Manual
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#3 Old 09-10-2007, 10:27 PM
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Thanks for the reply; I bought it used 2 1/2 years ago with 35,000 on it. I'm going to replace the radiator with a new 2 row aluminum one. $153 at Radiator Barn. I don't think the antifreeze has ever been changed, and the truck is now almost 8 years old. I'm going to put in a new 195 degree thermostat, and a lower rad hose, in case the original one is colapsing. Probalby replace the fan clutch also, because it runs cooler when the electric fan is on, so maybe the clutch fan isn't working properly. All this stuff I can do for less than $300, and probably a good idea, because I'm towing with it. I'll go with a good sized tranny cooler also. I thought the Mopar type +4 was good for 100,000 miles. My 01 Intrepid is mosty highway miles type driving, and it has +4, and I changed the oreiginal stuff at 130,000, and it still works perfectly. I also have a leaking pinion seal, so I'll change that, and go over to synthetic gear oil. Other than that, I'll just wait for the waterpump to go down the rioad. Thanks for your help, and anything else you could suggest would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Seeya Scotty1
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#4 Old 09-10-2007, 11:36 PM
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Good price on the rad!
I don't suggest waiting 100K to change tranny fluid. I tow a landscape trailer (4200#) 3-6hrs a week. For 2000, the drain intervals are the same for the 5.9, 5.2 and 4.7 engines & transmissions. I my owners manual it says to change trans fluid every 12K under severe service and 24K in regular service. I put a version online direct from my 2000 O.M: http://www.biodsl.com/dbook/dbook8.htm

Anywho, I change my transmission and transfer case fluids every two years just to be on the safe side. I also have a Lubrico PT warranty (for two more months) so I have to keep up with either schedule.

If you want to add to your fluid capacities go to www.yourcovers.com and get a larger rear diff. cover as well as a larger transmission pan. Both allow you to drain the fluid out without removing the cover/pan! Transmission gives you 2qts over stock and 0.7qts more in the rear diff. which would also extend the drain intervals.

2000 5.9 R/T - Platinum
144,000m (233,000kms)
Amsoil in the diffs, transfer case and engine - Hughes Plenum - Fastman 52mm TB - K&N FIPK - SCT tuner currently set at 87 octane - Magnaflow 15659 exhaust

My 2000 R/T
2000 R/T Factory service Manual
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