Fan Clutch Help!!! - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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#1 Old 08-18-2003, 06:47 AM
FastDak47
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Fan Clutch Help!!!

I am having a problem with my fan clutch. The clutch went out and I replaced it and now there is alot more drag on the motor than before. Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? I am also having trouble finding a 180* thermostat for my truck.( 4.7) I appriciate any help anyone can give me. Thanks,,
Jeff

2000 Dakota 4.7
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#2 Old 08-18-2003, 11:55 PM
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Did you replace it with a thermal or non-thermal fan clutch?
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#3 Old 08-19-2003, 08:00 PM
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not sure, that is the first I have ever heard of the choice. I never have messed with fan clutches that much before, How do I find out what I have now and what I need to replace it with? I really appriciate the help and thanks for your time.
Jeff

2000 Dakota 4.7
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#4 Old 08-20-2003, 03:50 AM
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A thermal fan clutch has a coil in the middle of the center of the front of the fan. When this coil heats up to a certain temp it engages the fan to spin at the rpm of the engine.

A non thermal does not have the coil and is always engaged. So it is always spinning at the engine rpm. Less horsepower with this type.

You may have had a thermal and it went bad and you replaced it with a non thermal which is always engaged. That maybe your problem and why you feel your engine dragging.
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#5 Old 08-20-2003, 09:34 AM
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Thanks for your insight. Sounds like you hit the nail on the head. I will fix it today. Thanks again, Jeff

2000 Dakota 4.7
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#6 Old 03-02-2004, 09:50 PM
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sorry to bring this topics back up guys... but i have the same problem as jeff and i had some more questions... I had my D for 3 years maybe and the engine just recently started making alot of "straining noise" when i'd start moving... especially after start up... we went to a couple mechanics and they all said fan clutch... we changed the fan clutch and now its worse... it does it at start up... stops at pretty decent speeds and starts up again after i sit at stop lights.... could you explain this thermal non thermal thing to me in more detail....I think i might have this problem

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#7 Old 03-03-2004, 12:18 PM
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If your vehicle is equiped with the clutch fan and the electric one just leave the clutch fan off. If not go aftermarket electric fan and get rid of that power robbing clutch fan.

Later...

07 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L, TRD S/C, TRD Duals, Unichip, Dynojet Wideband Commander.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
02 Dak CC 4.7L auto, 360 intakez CAI, Roll-N-Lock, Rhino Liner, Relocated IAT, Remove Clutch Fan, No Cats, True Duals Gibson 766024, Motive 4.10 w/LSD, ROE A/F Controller, Robert Shaw 180 Tstat, KRC 206 Cams, TMR Mod, Fastman O2 Simms, ASP Underdrive Pulley, HO intake manifold, Superchips Programmer, Magnaflow x-pipe, SQC 70mm TB. Dynojet Wideband Commander.

1/4 mile 14.8sec@91.4mph;Orlando Speed World 10 Feb 06
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#8 Old 03-03-2004, 03:44 PM
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ok that was all jibberish to me... whats the difference?

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#9 Old 03-04-2004, 09:30 AM
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Mopar5.9;
Look under your hood between the clutch fan and the radiator. Do you see an electric fan on the back of the radiator? If so, then just take the clutch fan off.
Or you can crank your truck up, open the hood, and turn on the A/C. Do you hear the electric fan kick on and running? If so, you can remove your clutch fan and just leave it off.
I took mine off last summer (I'm Florida resident) and have had no problems. I also installed a 180 degree thermostat. My son owns a Durango, not sure what year either 1999 or 2000, and we took his clutch fan off also.

Hope this helps...

07 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L, TRD S/C, TRD Duals, Unichip, Dynojet Wideband Commander.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
02 Dak CC 4.7L auto, 360 intakez CAI, Roll-N-Lock, Rhino Liner, Relocated IAT, Remove Clutch Fan, No Cats, True Duals Gibson 766024, Motive 4.10 w/LSD, ROE A/F Controller, Robert Shaw 180 Tstat, KRC 206 Cams, TMR Mod, Fastman O2 Simms, ASP Underdrive Pulley, HO intake manifold, Superchips Programmer, Magnaflow x-pipe, SQC 70mm TB. Dynojet Wideband Commander.

1/4 mile 14.8sec@91.4mph;Orlando Speed World 10 Feb 06
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#10 Old 03-04-2004, 02:06 PM
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I'll take a look today... I have a 99 with a 5.9 ( i guess you already saw that in my signature)

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#11 Old 03-04-2004, 02:09 PM
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no fan... can i buy an electric fan? or like a better fan clutch that wont drag?

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI

Last edited by Mopar5.9; 03-04-2004 at 02:17 PM.
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#12 Old 03-04-2004, 02:45 PM
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There are aftermarket electric fans out there and the choice is up to you which one to go with; Hayden, Black Magic, Viper ... just to mention a few.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/show...t=electric+fan

I did a quick search on this site for 'electric fan' and found the above link. I have read about other truck owners going with a Dodge Viper fan too. Maybe you could find a wrecked truck in a junkyard equiped with the factory electric fan if you want to go that route. I'm not sure what year Dodge started putting clutch and electric fans on the Dakota & Durango but my 02 Dakota had both of them.

Hope this helps and good luck to you...

07 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L, TRD S/C, TRD Duals, Unichip, Dynojet Wideband Commander.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
02 Dak CC 4.7L auto, 360 intakez CAI, Roll-N-Lock, Rhino Liner, Relocated IAT, Remove Clutch Fan, No Cats, True Duals Gibson 766024, Motive 4.10 w/LSD, ROE A/F Controller, Robert Shaw 180 Tstat, KRC 206 Cams, TMR Mod, Fastman O2 Simms, ASP Underdrive Pulley, HO intake manifold, Superchips Programmer, Magnaflow x-pipe, SQC 70mm TB. Dynojet Wideband Commander.

1/4 mile 14.8sec@91.4mph;Orlando Speed World 10 Feb 06
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#13 Old 03-04-2004, 03:02 PM
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Thanks for that Link FLDak... Really gave me a good idea of which route i should take...

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#14 Old 03-04-2004, 03:03 PM
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im just wondering if the spinning at RPM vs. Spinning at same speed 4x00cfm for the viper engine will do any damage?

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#15 Old 03-05-2004, 06:49 AM
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The ability to spin as a higher speed at idle of slow speed is the advantage of an electric fan. At slow speed is when many vehicles have cooling problems as the fan slows down with the engine RPM.

Getting back to you first post, It is vert common for the D stock fan clutch to cause a lot of fan noise at start up and you swear that the engine is rev'ing fast and you have now power. It is a combination of the clutch locking up a little and the design if the fan blades. A lot of D owner's complained about the noise. There is a TSD that tells the dealers to tell customers that the noisy fan is normal. An alternate the V10 fan. There is a TSB for engine runnig hot, to replace the fan and clutch with the V10 fan. I got it while under wartranty. It is very quiet even when locked up. Here is the TSB and the parts if you want to do it.. The shroud is not necessary:

Engine Overheats in High Ambient Temperatures
Source: Chrysler TSB 07-07-98
Models: 1998 -1999 (DN) Durango
Symptom/Condition: Some Durangos may experience a high engine temperature condition [temperatures greater than 116°C (240°F)] when the vehicle is operated in stop-and-go traffic with ambient temperatures exceeding 32°C. (90°F.). The result from the high engine temperature may cause the following:
• Engine Temperature Gauge To Read Higher Than Normal
• Check Gauge Lamp To Illuminate
• Warning Chime To Sound
• Vehicles Equipped With Air Conditioning May Have The A/C System Disabled
NOTE: The powertrain control module (PCM) is designed to disable the air conditioning systems when engine temperatures exceed a predetermined value and/or the A/C high side pressure exceeds 470 P.S.I. ± 20 P.S.I.. This is a normal condition designed to protect the engine from overheating and from damaging the A/C compressor. Once the engine temperature and/or A/C high side pressure has lowered, the PCM will turn the air conditioning system on.
Diagnosis:
1. Examine the vehicle’s cooling system for proper operation. The DRB lilt can be used to ensure that the engine temperature does not exceed 99° C. (210° F.) during normal operating conditions. If the engine temperature exceeds 99° C. (210° F.) during normal operating conditions, the cooling system must be inspected and repaired. Refer to the 1999 Durango Service Manual (Publication No. 81-37091 16), pages 7-9 through 7-20 for information regarding Cooling System Diagnosis And Testing.
NOTE: This bulletin addresses engine overheat conditiones that occur only in stop-and-go traffic with temperatures exceeding 32°C. (90°F.).
2. If the vehicle’s cooling system is operating normally and the customer identifies that the vehicle exhibited the previously stated SYMPTOM/CONDITION, perform the Repair Procedure.
Parts Required:
(1) 52027709 Fan, Cooling
(1) 52029767AA Drive, Fan
(1) (AR) 52029012AC Shroud, Fan, Four Wheel Drive
(1) (AR) 52028614AB Shroud, Fan, Two Wheel Drive
Repair Procedure:
This bulletin involves installing a revised fan and fan drive and in some cases, installing a new fan shroud.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assembly is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from the water pump by turning the attaching nut counterclockwise as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Threads on the viscous fan drive are RIGHT HANDED. A Snap-on 36mm fan wrench (Snap-on number SP346 from Cummins Diesel Tool Set (Snap on number 2017DSP)) can be used. The water pump pulley can be held in place by one of the two following methods based upon whether the water pump pulley is pressed onto the water pump or held in place with four attachment bolts.
• Pressed-On Water Pump Pulley: The water pump pulley can be held in place by using Spanner Wrench (Special Tool 6958) and Adapter Pins (Special Tool 8346).
• Bolt-On Water Pump Pulley: Place a bar or screwdriver between the water pump pulley bolts to prevent the pulley from rotating.
3. Remove the four fan shroud bolts securing the shroud to the radiator.
4. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly as a complete unit from the vehicle.
5. Remove the four fan blade-to-viscous fan drive attachment bolts.
6. Inspect the fan shroud for uniformity where the fan blade opening is. The circumference of the fan blade opening should not have any deformations. If the fan blade opening is deformed, replace the fan shroud (see Parts Required section)
7. To allow for adjustment of the fan shroud, drill the upper fan shroud attachment holes to 15 mm (0.59 in.).
8. Attach the new fan blade p/n 52027709 to the new viscous fan drive p/n 52029767AA using the four bolts removed from the old assembly. Tighten the bolts to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).
9. Position the fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.
10. Install the fan shroud onto the radiator leaving the attachment bolts loose.
11. Install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly onto the water pump shaft. Tighten the nut to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
12. Rotate the fan by hand to ensure no contact between the fan blade and the fan shroud. Adjust the position of the fan shroud so that the clearance between the fan blades and the fan shroud are equal throughout the circumference of the shroud and there is 8 mm (0.30 in.) of clearance between the fan blades and the fan shroud. The fan shroud attachment holes can be enlarged even further if necessary to achieve proper clearance as long as the fan shroud bolts continue to have an adequate clamping surface. Tighten the fan shroud bolts.
13. Connect the battery negative cable and reset the clock.
14. Start the engine. Firmly apply the service brakes and put the transmission into "D". Perform a "brake torque" check to ensure that the engine motion does not cause the fan blades to come in contact with the fan shroud.
15. Perform the same test but with the transmission in "R".
16. If the fan blades came in contact with the fan shroud at any time during the previous two tests, readjust the fan shroud as necessary.
Viscous Fan Drive Service:
Source: Chrysler TSB 07-09-98
Models: 1998 - 1999 (AB) Ram Van
1998 - 1999 (AN) Dakota
1998 - 1999 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
1998 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee
1998 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (International Market)
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 3.9L, 5.2L or 5.9L gasoline engine built after January 5, 1998 (MDH 0105XX).
Discussion: Vehicles built after January 5,1998 have the water pump pulley pressed onto the water pump hub shaft. As in previous models, the viscous fan drive is threaded onto the water pump hub shaft. Because the pulley is pressed onto the hub shaft, viscous fan drive removal/installation procedures are unique.
The fan/viscous fan drive assembly can be removed or installed from the water pump by turning the mounting nut. To remove the fan/viscous fan drive assembly, turn the nut counterclockwise as viewed from the front. To install the fan/viscous fan drive assembly, turn the nut clockwise as viewed from the front. Threads on the viscous fan drive are RIGHT-HANDED. Snap-On 36 mm Fan Wrench (number SP346 from Snap-On Cummins Diesel Tool Set number 2017DSP) can be used to remove/install the fan drive assembly on gasoline engines. To hold the water pump pulley from rotating, place Miller Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench onto the water pump pulley with adapter pins 8346 inserted into the holes on the pulley, see Figure 1.
NOTE: Replacement water pump P/N 53021018 has been superseded to P/N 53021018AB which will have the pulley pressed onto the water pump hub shaft. Water pump P/N 53021018 was used to service 1993 - 1998 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L (gasoline engines) water pumps.

99 Durango 5.9, FT 4x4, IP stage III w/ K&N air hat, M1, MOPAR PCM, Fastman TB, 1.7 RR, JBA headers, Borla cat back, Martin Saine valve body, Hotchkis swaybars, Blistein shocks, lowered 2" Black Rhino Kenya wheels, 246. 7 RWHP, 319 TQ
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#16 Old 03-05-2004, 05:13 PM
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is that a "recall" im not to familiar with "TSB" anyways if my D doesnt show those symptoms that are bulleted at the top can i still change it?

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#17 Old 03-06-2004, 10:24 PM
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Just my two cents here, so take it for whatever its worth....

The electric fans were added to the stock configuration to augment the stock clutch fan....If the clutch fan was moving inadequate air to keep below the right temp they will kick on...like at idle in traffic.

Keep in mind that the clutch fan moves the MOST air thru the radiator, including while moving at slower speeds....like when towing or 4x4ing....my truck has the AC condenser and the tranny cooler in front of it....and that clutch fan sucks a lot of air thru them...I wouldnt dream of getting rid of it.

ALso, dont forget that the clutch fan moves HUGE amounts of air, so it aids in heat dissipation over the engine as well....those electric fans may or may not cut it on their own....

I dunno....just my two cents like I said...

DZ

'03 Durango SLT 4x4 -- K&N drop-in, door sill guards, brushed al. Rams head receiver plug, Garmin V GPS, front wheel well gap shields, EGR 3-piece painted hood shield and in-channel window visors, Mopar RAM Head mud flaps on rear, Mopar Deluxe Grill guard w/ 2 6" SS Daylighters, DeeZee Chrome Tail-light guards
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#18 Old 03-07-2004, 02:07 AM
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you got a very good point... but what do you suggest i do about the noise?

1999 Dodge Durango SLT
5.9 360 V8 Magnum
40 series Flowmasters
CAI
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#19 Old 03-08-2004, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar5.9
is that a "recall" im not to familiar with "TSB" anyways if my D doesnt show those symptoms that are bulleted at the top can i still change it?
A TSB is a Technical Service Bulliten. It is information distributed from Chrysler to the dealers informing them of common problems and fixes. It only applies if the customer comes in with the problem (or knows the details of the TSB and complains that the vehicle has the symptions.) The fix is free while under warranty only. It is not a recall. You are free to buy the parts out of warranty.

99 Durango 5.9, FT 4x4, IP stage III w/ K&N air hat, M1, MOPAR PCM, Fastman TB, 1.7 RR, JBA headers, Borla cat back, Martin Saine valve body, Hotchkis swaybars, Blistein shocks, lowered 2" Black Rhino Kenya wheels, 246. 7 RWHP, 319 TQ
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#20 Old 03-08-2004, 07:00 AM
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You've either got the wrong clutch or a bad clutch.....


The noise ist he fan doing its job....Mine on my 2003 makes some noie when first started and then occasionally after beong stopped at red lights......but it goes away pretty quickly...If yours is continuous I would agree that the clutch is probably the culprit if the truck is not overheating.

'03 Durango SLT 4x4 -- K&N drop-in, door sill guards, brushed al. Rams head receiver plug, Garmin V GPS, front wheel well gap shields, EGR 3-piece painted hood shield and in-channel window visors, Mopar RAM Head mud flaps on rear, Mopar Deluxe Grill guard w/ 2 6" SS Daylighters, DeeZee Chrome Tail-light guards
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