How-To: Change Gear Oil in Rear Differential - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
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#1 Old 12-10-2005, 09:08 PM
sherdep
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Thumbs up How-To: Change Gear Oil in Rear Differential

Hey Guys,
I figured I would post some of this stuff up here so you can get an idea on how I would change the Rear Differential Gear Oil. I know everyone has there own way of doing things but figured it was well worth my time to post how to do it for anyone that has never done this before and see pics of what it should look like.

Materials Needed, Three (3) Quarts of 85 W 140 Gear Oil, I used Valvoline Synthetic Blend ($5.00 a bottle) instead of Mobil-1 Full Synthetic ($16.00 a bottle)
One (1) Tube of Ultra Copper RTV Silicone ($3.98 @ Discount / Advanced Auto)
One (1) 7oz tube of LSD or Tract Lok lube (Instructions say to use all 7oz and the manual says to use 4oz .. I used all 7oz) ($5.00 @ Discount/Advanced Auto)

Total job used 2 - Qt's and One (1) 7oz tube of Tract Lok Lube, Two (2) Razor blades and One (1) tube of Ultra Copper RTV Silicone.

1- I washed the axle housing and cover with a scrub brush and car wash soap to minimize the dirt and or contaminents getting into the gears while I have the cover off, then I let dry for about 30 minutes.
2- I took the all the bolts but two out on the top but I did loosen them
3- with a pan to catch the gear oil under the rear differential I used a flat head screw driver to seperate the cover to the rear end. Becareful the rear end housing is aluminum and dont want to mar the gasket area up so it just takes minimal pressure to seperate the two pieces.
4- Once the cover is off I cleaned out the bottom of the Rear end housing with a clean rag, you will see a magnet in the center bottom and some metal shavings (that look like silver sand), clean them out,
5- then I took a razor blade and cleaned the RTV silicone off the housing and the diff cover, I never used any solvents but I did make sure everything was dry and clean with a clean rag after I was done.
6- Once both surfaces are clean you are ready to silicone and install the cover, just make sure to check and see if you have any old RTV (silicone) flakes on the gears and make sure there is no dirt or foreign matter in the gear area.
7- Now get some Permatex Ultra Copper ($3.98 at Discount/Advanced Auto & $4.99 @ Autozone) Cut the tube top to the first notch and sqweeze the tube around the cover and then going back around again and also looping around the holes.
8- Waiting a minute or two then putting the cover back on and securing it with two bolts, then putting a little RTV Silicone around the underside of the bolt heads that meet the cover and putting them on and tightening finger tight till you have all the bolts on, dont forget to put silicone on the first two you installed to hold the cover on,
9- then torque the bolts to 15 foot pounds then go over them again with 30 foot pounds crossing back and forth.
10- I waited just over One (1) hour before I added any fluid to give the RTV (silicone) a chance to cure,
11- Now comes the easy part refilling the oil cavity, If you have LSD you will need to put the additive in unless you are using Lucas oils which states on the bottle LSD additive not needed, then you fill with 2 to 2 1/4 quarts of the 85 W 145 Gear oil of your choice that meets or exceeds GL5 requirments till it comes out of the hole where you are filling it (truck should be on level ground for this)
12- then put the black rubber cover back over the hole and road test, If you have LSD and have some chatter the manual states to do figures 8's to get the additive worked into the LSD. If this has helped anyone or any comments please podt them cause I would like to see what other members do diffrently then me Good Luck and this conclude our training class of the day
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rear end before tearing down.JPG (78.0 KB, 512 views)
File Type: jpg Items for the Gear oil change.JPG (158.2 KB, 419 views)
File Type: jpg Cover after taking apart.JPG (157.0 KB, 410 views)
File Type: jpg Rear axle after taking apart.JPG (115.2 KB, 447 views)
File Type: jpg Metal shavings that came out of power housing.JPG (92.0 KB, 405 views)

04 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
305/70/18 Dick Cepek FC-II Tires on DC-1 Rims
Fram Boost CAI
Hellwig Rear sway Bar
Train Horns with a Viar420C and a 5 Gallon Air Tank
Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Great fit but Dynatech's support is lacking
DynoMax Part # 19413 Single Cat Back Exhaust
If you need to contact me - please send me an email due to not being on here as much as I used to.

Some get it and some will never get it

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#2 Old 12-10-2005, 09:10 PM
sherdep
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Here are more pics.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rear axle housing cleaned.JPG (75.8 KB, 303 views)
File Type: jpg Rear cover cleaned.JPG (122.0 KB, 256 views)
File Type: jpg Silicon on cover.JPG (101.6 KB, 285 views)
File Type: jpg Rear assembled.JPG (114.8 KB, 291 views)

04 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
305/70/18 Dick Cepek FC-II Tires on DC-1 Rims
Fram Boost CAI
Hellwig Rear sway Bar
Train Horns with a Viar420C and a 5 Gallon Air Tank
Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Great fit but Dynatech's support is lacking
DynoMax Part # 19413 Single Cat Back Exhaust
If you need to contact me - please send me an email due to not being on here as much as I used to.

Some get it and some will never get it

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#3 Old 12-10-2005, 10:36 PM
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Just a few suggestions.........

I made it a point to drive my truck 8--10 miles to warm up the differential fluid prior to changing. After the differential cover was removed, I took a floor jack and raised the axle at the ends (alternating at each wheel) near the wheels to drain out whatever fluid remained in the axle tubes, followed by a test drive in a parking lot doing figure eights.......this to also insure the axle tubes get filled back up again as well. Re-check fluid level. Us 2500/3500 guys don't have all the prep work involved, as the gaskets on the AAM 10.5's and 11.5's (and the front diffs) are all re-useable. Good writeup.
Greg

2013 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel 385 hp 850 torque, Tradesman in New Holland Blue, Protection Group, Popular Equipment Group, 220A Alternator, AISIN 6 speed auto, Chrome Tubular Side Steps, Single Disc CD, LT235/80R17 General AmeriTrac TR OWL tires, Trailer Brake Control, 3.73 axle ratio, Anti-Spin Rear Differential, SIRIUS satellite radio.

Past CTD's : 1998 Dodge RAM 2500 Flame Red Sport Regular Cab 4x4 12V w/NV4500; 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 Flame Red Sport Quad Cab 4x4 24V w/47RE; 2003 Dodge RAM 2500 Bright White Sport Crew Cab 4x4 HPCR 24V w/NV5600.....Casper may be gone, but never forgotten.....2007.5 Dodge RAM 3500 Mega Cab SRW 4x4 Electric Blue Pearl Coat Laramie 6.7L HPCR w/68RFE and 3.73's.
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#4 Old 12-10-2005, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsbrockman
I made it a point to drive my truck 8--10 miles to warm up the differential fluid prior to changing. After the differential cover was removed, I took a floor jack and raised the axle at the ends (alternating at each wheel) near the wheels to drain out whatever fluid remained in the axle tubes, followed by a test drive in a parking lot doing figure eights.......this to also insure the axle tubes get filled back up again as well. Re-check fluid level. Us 2500/3500 guys don't have all the prep work involved, as the gaskets on the AAM 10.5's and 11.5's (and the front diffs) are all re-useable. Good writeup.
Greg
Thank you and also glad to see some very useful info there as well..... never would have thought to jack up each side to drain the tubes as well.

BTW all suggestions are welcomed here .... everyone has a way of doing things diffrently and would like to see them posted for any other member to see.

04 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
305/70/18 Dick Cepek FC-II Tires on DC-1 Rims
Fram Boost CAI
Hellwig Rear sway Bar
Train Horns with a Viar420C and a 5 Gallon Air Tank
Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Great fit but Dynatech's support is lacking
DynoMax Part # 19413 Single Cat Back Exhaust
If you need to contact me - please send me an email due to not being on here as much as I used to.

Some get it and some will never get it

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#5 Old 12-11-2005, 06:54 PM
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Did you find a lot of metal shavings? Did it have that old gear smell? Afterwards did you feel it was needed?

Sold the 05 missed it so now have a 03 Hemi QC Sport white 4x2 leather
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#6 Old 12-11-2005, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gc714
Did you find a lot of metal shavings? Did it have that old gear smell? Afterwards did you feel it was needed?
Yes I found alot of metal shaving but they looked like sand they were so fine. I didn't have that old gear smell cause it has only 16,500 miles on them
Personally I didnt feel it needed but I figured this was the best way to check to make sure the C Clips were ok on the LSD and to comply with the recomendation of the maintenance plan

04 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
305/70/18 Dick Cepek FC-II Tires on DC-1 Rims
Fram Boost CAI
Hellwig Rear sway Bar
Train Horns with a Viar420C and a 5 Gallon Air Tank
Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Great fit but Dynatech's support is lacking
DynoMax Part # 19413 Single Cat Back Exhaust
If you need to contact me - please send me an email due to not being on here as much as I used to.

Some get it and some will never get it

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#7 Old 12-18-2005, 06:57 AM
warp
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Is this service required on LS diffs only, or for open rears also
15000 seems early for service. even the trany gos longer than
that
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#8 Old 12-18-2005, 08:46 AM
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I'd open it up and check it out at 15,000 miles... if you have
an LSD. Maybe you can catch this early if it happens to you
and get it fixed properly by Dodge.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81457

Sil
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#9 Old 12-18-2005, 09:07 AM
sherdep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp
Is this service required on LS diffs only, or for open rears also
15000 seems early for service. even the trany gos longer than
that
Like Sils said ... open it up and check especially if you hve Limited Slip Differential
if you read the owners manual is recommends 15,000 miles for the Maintenance schedule on all differentials (Front & Rear - open or LSD) Personally if you have LSD I would do it at 15,000 and 30,000 to make sure the C Clips are still intact so if there is a problem it will give you ample time to get it to the dealer for service.
You dont have to change the gear oil that early but if you tow or work the truck in mud or snow it is a good idea to have a maintenance plan in place to prevent premature parts failure's especially while the truck is under warranty.

04 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
305/70/18 Dick Cepek FC-II Tires on DC-1 Rims
Fram Boost CAI
Hellwig Rear sway Bar
Train Horns with a Viar420C and a 5 Gallon Air Tank
Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Great fit but Dynatech's support is lacking
DynoMax Part # 19413 Single Cat Back Exhaust
If you need to contact me - please send me an email due to not being on here as much as I used to.

Some get it and some will never get it

sherdep is offline  
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