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schorbf
 
  power ideas - 318 V8 - Posted: 07-28-2003, 10:50 AM
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Post #1

My friend has an ext. cab 2001 Ram with the 5.2 liter V8 and is looking for ideas for increasing his power.
He has installed a k&n air filter and a flowmaster muffler.
He occasionally pulls a 28' travel trailer that weights about 4800 lbs.

What do-it-yourself, no brain mods do you guys recommend? I brought up doing a chip such as a hypertech or even going to the dealer and seeing what's available from Mopar, but I don't know much about that stuff.

All input is appreciated!

Thanks all!
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Mathes79Z
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 03:47 AM
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Post #2

well, there doesnt seem to be a whole lot you can do for these motors without serious mods.

as ive been searching the best thing to do is just dish out $2800 for a supercharger. but, if a large sum of money isnt on hand at the moment.

not particularly in order, but close..

Since you already have the filter, i guess it can stay (i have a drop in also) but a cold air intake (CAI) is better and will produce more power.
You could build your own "half assed" CAI using your stock airbox and some dryer hose or PCV pipe and it will sort of split the differance between the drop in replacment and all out aftermarket CAI.

next, well, u already have exaust, so thats good, but did you just replace the stock muffler?
I went to a 3" exaust, changed my muffler and had 3" bent after the muffler, but kept stock muffler to engine.
best thing to do is keep the muffler but have 2.5-3" pipe (Single) or 2.25-2.5" (duel) pipes bent. first, run a decent set of headers (the ones that come with a good Y or H pipe *the pipe from the headers collector to the catalytic converter*)
Then run a good aftermarket high flow catalytic converter. (or two if u have duels) thats why i chose single exaust, only need one cat and less pipe, also dont have to run the pipe near my gas tank or get rid of my spare tire mount.

So now it can get rid of the exaust gasses, the engine will run cooler (even if the temp gauge doesnt show it, your exaust valves will run cooler and so will the chambers). so we can build HP.

now we can cram even more air in there.
might as well dish out for a fastman TB, its worth the $200 and is a SUPER easy bolt in, no brainer, just remember, some idiot on an assembly line built it, u can take it apart easy!
Now you are making decent power with the engine chrylser gave u to work with.

Since you pull a trailer, i dont suggest the mopar PCM, but a friend of mine i work with does have the mopar performance PCM (the computer) and he pulls a 28' travel trailer all the time without engine pinging.
So, thats more of a call on your part, if you're willing to run 92-93 octane fuel, then go ahead and get the PCM.

You can make more power by adding the M-1 intake, but since ur buddy is using it for towing, you want your bottom end torque, so i'd stick with the stock intake for now but would later down the road consider upgrading to a ported stock style intake.

Next i would address the tuneup of the engine, purchase a set of NGK spark plugs, i got the power groove ones, very nice plug. this will help ensure all ur fuel gets burned.
also upgrade your distributer cap and rotor with brass terminal units. I think Napa or most any local autoparts store has them or can get them, make sure its solid brass, good quality.
Getting a set of good aftermarket plug wires will also help since stock chrysler ones tend to die young and wear easily.

You can also help keep the motor alive by changing the engines oil to Mobil-1 synthetic or even better but more $$ Amsoil synthetic. this will allow the motor to run cooler, less friction (free hp), keep deposits down and will generally live 4 times or more longer than with conventional oils.
also running synthetics in the rest of your drivetrain (transmission, front axle, rear axle, etc..) will free up HP through friction loss and keep the parts working for a long time.

now, if you still need more HP, and dont we all
You can add more lift to your stock cam by adding larger rocker arms than stock or better yet getting a new/recut aftermarket roller cam made to match your current modifications and even keeping in mind future ones.

You can also tune you electronics to perform at their peaks, like tuning your TPS (throttle positioning sensor), AIT (air intake temperature sensor), TB (throttle body) plates to ensure they open all the way, etc... but this generally takes more than just "bolt on" skill and some added tools like a multimeter or volt/ohm meter.

still want more power?

heck, change your heads and get a cam to match or just drop in a stock RT cam.
you can get the RT heads or ported RT heads with 2.02" valves and then get a matching cam.
even further you can stroke the motor or buy a drop in replacement 400ci stroker.

but thats $$$$ stuff.

oh, you can also upgrade your injectors to better performing (better spray pattern) or larger GPH or LPH (gallon or liter per hour) rating to increase the amount of fuel.

ummm... hmm.. theres more but ive been up for about 30 hours now

Hope some of this helps or make sense at least.

Goodluck, im headin down the same path myself.
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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L (318ci) 4X4
46RE
4.56 gears with richmond locker in rear.
Single 3" exaust through Magnaflow cat and Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
Ngk V-groove plugs
Fastman 50mm TB
Hypertech PPIII
Accell supercoil
Dakota air hat with Large K&N diesel filter.
Underdrive crank pulley.
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pyssed
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 06:25 AM
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Post #3

What kind of budget?
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schorbf
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 10:30 AM
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Post #4

I'm not sure about his budget. He's on vacation this week, so I'll have to ask him that when he gets back.

I told him a chip might be around $500 bucks, + or - $200 and he was cool with that. So I'd say under $1000 bucks. For that kind of money, I figured the chip was the best bang for the buck. Is this about right?

I guess the best thing would be to get him registered to this site! Being the middle man is always a problem!!

I know he wants to do something to get more power though.
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Richard Wild
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 12:27 PM
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Post #5

Do you have any problem with the engine overheating I am pulling a 24 ft travel trailer and I can't keep the engine cool enough I have a 1995 'dodge
dekota pulling a 4000 lb travel trailer seems to have enough power but runs hot even on short trips any one got any Ideas. Thank you (Richard Wild)
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spirit-dodge
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 09:59 PM
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Post #6

Richard Wild try 180 t stat


the ppIII will give some more power and you can run 87 or 93
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jdb1937
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 10:20 PM
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Post #7

I say run 160 stat- i have tried both in Ford Ranger 4.0, runs a lot better, better mileage with the 160. But you will find you will not be able to maintain that temp. So, if you have the 3.9 V-6: go get the 5.9 radiator. Dont worry it wont be too big.

But if you run the 160 stat and want good heat in the winter- you will need to also add a flex a lite black majic electric fan- see www.summitracing.com they have them. I have heard also of folks running electric fan clutches- which sound like a good idea, especially if you do not want to change your radiator. Electric fans will result in slightly less cooling power- so you will need that big radiator. Not dramatically less- only slightly less. Good luck, J.D., KCK
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1999 Dodge Ram 360 V-8, diesel radiator, 180 degree thermostat, flow-kooler high perf water pump, automatic, tow package (stock tranny cooler removed for one 3 times the stock size, fits in same spot), 10,000 mile engine oil changes- non synthetic oil, open element K&N, Flex-a-lite monster dual electric fan, three small electric fans in front of A/C condensor, cab high topper. Moved to Fort Hood this past summer: pulled a GCWR 16880 pound trailer in 105 degree weather - ran max water temp of 205. No blown head gasket/trans problems/pickup is fine.

1998 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed, 6 cyl radiator, 2" lift, 31" tires/rims bought used, other mods as above, more mods (lockers, rear dana 44) hopefully coming.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mods as above, 150,000 miles.

2003 Jeep Liberty, mods as above, with the exception of 185 degree therm. to get CEL to stay off. (still working that)

1937 John Deere model "B" tractor, hand start, restored, .150 over, alum pistons, crankshaft has never been out of the tractor, no thermostat or water pump stock, 150 degree water temp, K&N intake, 3 point hitch, double seat, umbrella.
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pyssed
 
 Posted: 07-30-2003, 10:43 PM
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Post #8

I would stay away from a 160 t-stat. I posted some pics of plugs and cylinder heads after only 6000 miles with a 160 t-stat. Not good, 180 is about as low as you want to go. You'll have many more problems if you go that low. IE: cat going bad, ruin plugs and not to mention gas mileage. At least that's my experience with them.
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bigred13
 
 Posted: 07-31-2003, 09:27 PM
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Post #9

Hey Mathes79Z,

Wouldn't it be easier & less expensive just to cut the cat. covertor out of the
picture?

I think there is an aftermarket O2 sensor you can buy that will replace the factory one & you won't have to worry about codes. I heard that through the grapevine somewhere.
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Mathes79Z
 
 Posted: 08-01-2003, 05:27 AM
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Post #10

you can, if u want to go that route, but its best on the enviro and u gettin nabbed later for it if u just score some high flow cats.
my 2000 has just been back to dodge for a recall, it trips the check engine if the cat goes bad, or u remove it. so i would need the device to give it a false signal, tells the computer ur cats are working when their not there.
u can get them.

i'd stay away from 160 degree stats, like said, hard on ur engine, the dodge engine has to get to 170 degrees before it comes out of "rich mode" so at 160 ur runnin around floodin it with gas. so a 180 is pushing it.. to be honest, the temp stat has nothing to do with staying cool up a mountain. a 195 is actually best.
you need to flush your cooling system and have your waterpump checked/replaced, may have failed.
the radiator in my ram is soooo big, and alumium, it could cool anything, i have a smaller radiator in my camaro and it makes over 425 hp.

also stay away from chips, a lot of people say the chrysler comp. just compensates for the cheap chip and u get nothing, runs good for a couple weeks, then eventually returns to normal, money down the drain. however the power programmer III is good, u can fine tune ur system.
heard lots of good stuff about these.
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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L (318ci) 4X4
46RE
4.56 gears with richmond locker in rear.
Single 3" exaust through Magnaflow cat and Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
Ngk V-groove plugs
Fastman 50mm TB
Hypertech PPIII
Accell supercoil
Dakota air hat with Large K&N diesel filter.
Underdrive crank pulley.
*DodgeTalk.com 318 Enthusiast Member #(13)*
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jdb1937
 
 Posted: 08-07-2003, 10:04 AM
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Post #11

I improved gas mileage by 4 mpg when i installed a 160 stat, and the A/C blows a lot colder- that also improves gas mileage since i dont have to use it as much, and the A/C freon lasts a lot longer.

I would say check gas mileage before and after changing stats and i will probably go with hpp 11 next time; i dont care for the jet chip. Also check your plugs- i have run my 160 stat for 20,000 miles- they are just fine, although my truck isnt a dodge. Also- closed loop occurs at 160 degrees, not at what was previously reported. 160 stats mean you run 170 degrees. Also- i run an electric fan with my 160 stats- this means closed loop actually occurs much faster then with a stock truck- another reason for the increased gas mileage.

People who own all makes of trucks are down on 160 stats. I wish they could give real world, factual reasons. I have run them for 15 years in my trucks although this is the first pickup with EFI. Like i said- this truck is running better then stock, no question, and 4 mpg increase too. I will continue running 160 stats until i run into a good reason not to. take care, J.D., KCK
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1999 Dodge Ram 360 V-8, diesel radiator, 180 degree thermostat, flow-kooler high perf water pump, automatic, tow package (stock tranny cooler removed for one 3 times the stock size, fits in same spot), 10,000 mile engine oil changes- non synthetic oil, open element K&N, Flex-a-lite monster dual electric fan, three small electric fans in front of A/C condensor, cab high topper. Moved to Fort Hood this past summer: pulled a GCWR 16880 pound trailer in 105 degree weather - ran max water temp of 205. No blown head gasket/trans problems/pickup is fine.

1998 Jeep Wrangler, 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed, 6 cyl radiator, 2" lift, 31" tires/rims bought used, other mods as above, more mods (lockers, rear dana 44) hopefully coming.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mods as above, 150,000 miles.

2003 Jeep Liberty, mods as above, with the exception of 185 degree therm. to get CEL to stay off. (still working that)

1937 John Deere model "B" tractor, hand start, restored, .150 over, alum pistons, crankshaft has never been out of the tractor, no thermostat or water pump stock, 150 degree water temp, K&N intake, 3 point hitch, double seat, umbrella.
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Mathes79Z
 
 Posted: 08-08-2003, 02:41 AM
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Post #12

get somebody else to go into thermal expantion of parts and you'll change ur mind
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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L (318ci) 4X4
46RE
4.56 gears with richmond locker in rear.
Single 3" exaust through Magnaflow cat and Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
Ngk V-groove plugs
Fastman 50mm TB
Hypertech PPIII
Accell supercoil
Dakota air hat with Large K&N diesel filter.
Underdrive crank pulley.
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pyssed
 
  Here's my proof - Posted: 08-08-2003, 06:24 AM
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Post #13

Here's my proof that the 160 isn't that good on my magnum 318. If you need more I can show you pics of plugs with only 500 miles on them also.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 318 cylinder head passenger side.jpg (74.1 KB, 144 views)
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Mathes79Z
 
 Posted: 08-08-2003, 08:32 PM
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Post #14

lots of money went into designing a motor, and those plans were layed out around your stock 195 or so degree thermostat.
another thing about running 160 degrees is that if you stop at a gas station to fuel up, its already pretty cool so by the time u pay ur back down into closed loop territory. where if it was running 195-200 it would be near 160-170 when u got done paying, no wasted fuel or parts wear.

personally ,its just not worth the risk for such a lil gain.
10 hp feels great at first, but what if you knew it was taking 50,000 miles or more off your engines life?
JMHO
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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L (318ci) 4X4
46RE
4.56 gears with richmond locker in rear.
Single 3" exaust through Magnaflow cat and Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
Ngk V-groove plugs
Fastman 50mm TB
Hypertech PPIII
Accell supercoil
Dakota air hat with Large K&N diesel filter.
Underdrive crank pulley.
*DodgeTalk.com 318 Enthusiast Member #(13)*
*DodgeTalk.com Silver Truck Club Member #(90)*
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wcalfee
 
 Posted: 08-13-2003, 08:19 AM
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Post #15

How much are 180 thermostats? Where is the best place to buy?
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Mathes79Z
 
 Posted: 08-13-2003, 11:20 AM
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Post #16

im not sure anymore where to get them, but the Robert Shaw or something like that thermostats are decent, maybe a search.

goodluck.
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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L (318ci) 4X4
46RE
4.56 gears with richmond locker in rear.
Single 3" exaust through Magnaflow cat and Hooker Aerochamber muffler.
Ngk V-groove plugs
Fastman 50mm TB
Hypertech PPIII
Accell supercoil
Dakota air hat with Large K&N diesel filter.
Underdrive crank pulley.
*DodgeTalk.com 318 Enthusiast Member #(13)*
*DodgeTalk.com Silver Truck Club Member #(90)*
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pyssed
 
 Posted: 08-13-2003, 04:44 PM
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Post #17

I bought mine from napa for $6.99. It's warrantied for 3 years.
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