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First Brake Job
- Posted: 06-05-2006, 10:23 PM
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Post #1
.....for this van. (I have done a ton on other vehicles)
What pads do you guys use? I am going with Hawk LTS pads (carbon metalic) from the Tire Rack on mine. Is there anything special as far as taking the calipers and rotors off on our vans? My rotten Express had a cogged section inside for the ABS. Does the Dodge? I had to order my pads from out of state because the selections at the local part stores sucked. I have used carbon metalic pads before and ceramic pads before and prefer the carbon metalic. Ceramics built up too much heat for stock rotors to handle causing heat cracks and warpage.....not good on ABS specific rotors.$$$$$
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Grant |
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Posted: 06-05-2006, 10:27 PM
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Post #2
Let me know how u like them, Ive always stuck w factory pads, wouldnt mind upgrading to something better. Im also going with the drilled rotors when the time comes for replacement of them.
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DAN 93 B250 VAN. Navy Blue Metalic 5.2 MAGNUM 3.92Gears, MSD Blaster coil, MSD 8.5mm wires, FLOWMASTER, K&N. FASTMAN 50mm TBody Fully custom home built interior, no conversion van. 2001 GRAND CARAVAN SPORT-wifes. 318 Enthusiast member #80 http://www.showtrux.com/showvans/bluestraveler/index.htm Click HERE to view the complete signature... |
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Posted: 06-06-2006, 06:43 AM
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Post #3
I use Bendix Semi-Metallic and have been happy with the performance. Your van has 4-wheel ABS so your brake rotors do have the "cog" section (aka tone ring). Just make sure they are free of any debris as well as the ABS sensor.
With ABS brakes I recommend that you open the bleeder screw when you push the pistons back in so dirty brake fluid doesn't backflow up through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder. This can cause an ABS/BRAKE light to come on.
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Nate the skate ![]() 1994 B250 Ram Van Conversion by Elk 5.2L Magnum 1972 B200 Royal Sportsman Maxiwagon 318/2bbl. 1985 B150 318/2bbl. Click HERE to view the complete signature... |
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Posted: 06-06-2006, 11:11 PM
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Post #4
Quote:
I never have, but that may be the reason that way back when the ABS light would come on on my Concorde when it was humid out. The Chebby didn't seem to care. If it isn't in too bad of a spot, I will probably do that this time.
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Grant |
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Posted: 07-14-2006, 01:22 PM
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Post #5
I have installed professional grade carbon metalic pads on my van and they work great. You should resurface your rotors or replace them if worn. Also the pads must "seated in" or it will heat-check the rotor surface, causing pedal pulsation. -Follow pad instructions.
Clean the caliper mount and caliper of any rust were they contact. -some use hi-temperature grease to lube here, however I don't because I drive on dirt roads daily and it attracted dirt/grit. ------------B-300---------- |
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Posted: 07-14-2006, 08:04 PM
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Post #6
B-300 hit it right on the nose! Those one-tonners I tell ya......
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Nate the skate ![]() 1994 B250 Ram Van Conversion by Elk 5.2L Magnum 1972 B200 Royal Sportsman Maxiwagon 318/2bbl. 1985 B150 318/2bbl. Click HERE to view the complete signature... |
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Posted: 07-15-2006, 09:18 PM
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Post #7
I still haven't had the time to do it myself, or the extra money to take it in to have them done.
It isn't metal on metal or even close, so no worries. They were at half pad when I had the tires done 5000 mi ago. I put the carbon metalics on my Concorde with new rotors and they work really nice. They stop stronger than the old standby Raybestos PG's which are a real good pad. I am using the Hawk pads on both the car and eventually the van. Thanks for the advice on the pads and setup. I always run my pads in no matter what brand they are.
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Grant |
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Posted: 07-27-2006, 04:27 PM
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Post #8
I assume this to be positive comment. I have a B-300 van that I converted to a heavy duty 3/4 ton by changing the rear axle a 8-3/4" with Auburn type limited slip, Willwood rear disc brakes and the one-ton springs. The front end uses the one-ton springs and lower reinforced control arms with PST polygraphite suspension kit+ KYB gas shocks.
----B-300--- |
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