Evaporator Core Change - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
 
Thread Tools
#1 Old 05-13-2006, 02:31 PM
XLRATION
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Evaporator Core Change

Has anyone here ever changed an evaporator on a 98 Ram 1500? Was it an easy job or pretty hard?
From what I can tell it is behind the dash on the pass. side but I can't tell if the whole dash needs to come out or if I can access it from under the dash if I just remove the blower motor assembly.
Is there any chance someone has a service manual in .pdf format that they can post up the section on replacing the evap. for me please.

98 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport quad cab - The Tow Rig

99 Pontiac Trans Am - The very quick Toy.
XLRATION is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 05-13-2006, 04:07 PM
Road Dog
Derelict
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If it's behind the heater core then step 1 -- remove dash. When they replaced the heater core in my truck they had to remove the A/C coils too. About 7 hours labour in the shop.

From the 2001 Dodge RAM manual (sorry, no pictures):
A/C EVAPORATOR
DESCRIPTION
The a/c evaporator is located in the HVAC housing,
under the instrument panel. The evaporator coil is
positioned in the HVAC housing so that all air that
enters the housing must pass over the fins of the
evaporator before it is distributed through the system
ducts and outlets. However, air passing over the
evaporator coil fins will only be conditioned when the
SUCTION AND DISCHARGE LINE (Continued)
compressor is engaged and circulating refrigerant
through the evaporator coil tubes.

OPERATION
Refrigerant enters the evaporator from the fixed
orifice tube as a low-temperature, low-pressure liquid.
As air flows over the fins of the evaporator, the
humidity in the air condenses on the fins, and the
heat from the air is absorbed by the refrigerant. Heat
absorption causes the refrigerant to boil and vaporize.
The refrigerant becomes a low-pressure gas when
it leaves the evaporator.
The evaporator coil cannot be repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.

REMOVAL
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
(1) Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle,
and disassemble the housing halves. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
HVAC HOUSING - REMOVAL) (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - DISASSEMBLY)
(2) Lift the a/c evaporator out of the HVAC housing
(Fig. 11).

INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)(Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
CAUTION - REFRIGERANT HOSES/LINES/TUBES
PRECAUTIONS)
(1) Insert the evaporator coil into the bottom of the
HVAC housing.
(2) Reassemble and reinstall the HVAC housing in
the vehicle. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
DISTRIBUTION/HVAC HOUSING -
ASSEMBLY) (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
DISTRIBUTION/HVAC HOUSING -
INSTALLATION)
NOTE: If the evaporator is replaced, add 60 milliliters
(2 fluid ounces) of refrigerant oil to the refrigerant
system.

1998 Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
Hughes Plenum Kit
Modified kegger with shortened runners
Superchips Microtuner
Road Dog is offline  
#3 Old 05-15-2006, 05:23 PM
vago34
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I actually did this myself on my 99 a couple of weeks ago, and never having done it before, I can tell you that it's not too difficult, just time consuming. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you aren't mechanically inclined. I didn't actually totally remove my dash - I just removed enough to be able to pull out the ac/heater housing. I removed all of the bolts for the dash along the windshield, the passenger side airbag, the glove box, the airbag control module, the cup holder, and most of the trim around the dash , like the bezel and the trim around the glove box. I also removed the bolts that secured the dash to the sides of the frame. There is one nut, though, that is kinda tricky to reach. It's on the passenger side, right next to the frame, straight up from the floor. It took me awhile to find that one! On the drivers side, I unhooked the e-break release lever, took the side bolt out, and loosed up the nuts holding the steering column on. I also removed the instrument panel, but I'm not sure if that is totally necessary. I also took the screws out that held the ac controls in place. Again, not sure if that was necessary, but did it anyway. There's also a bracket that's behind the airbag control module on the floor that needs to be removed. Then in the engine compartment, I detached both of the ac lines at the accumulator - make sure you have a quick connect tool to do that. Also, plug the lines to the accumulator so they don't get any dirt or moisture in there. You also have to disconnect the heater hoses, detach the pcm (all you have to do is take out the three screws holding it on-don't pull out the plugs) and disconnect the accumulator from the firewall. After you remove that nut and disconnect the ac lines, you should be able to move the accumulator out of the way. Now just slide out the metal plate that's behind the pcm to get to the nuts holding the ac/heater housing in. Remove those three nuts, plus one more that's right in the middle of the firewall to the right of the heater hoses. I had to remove my air intake to get to it. That should be all in the engine compartment. There's two more nuts that have to be removed to get the housing out. They're in the cab, on the passenger side. Just follow a grounding strap from the heater lines to the stud. The strap is attached between the two nuts. Remove the first nut, then the strap, and then the last nut. After that the housing should be ready to come out after you have pulled the dash out far enough. Remember to remove the vacuum lines and be sure to remember where they attach. There will be four of them. Also, you may have to disconnect the antenna. Ok-that should be everything to get it out. After it's out, just take out all of the screws holding the housing together and pull the two sides apart. There will be the evaporator and heater core. Take out the old and put in the new. When you put the two halves of the housing back together, make sure you line up the blender door properly or it won't work right. And as they say, installation is the reversal of the removal! Just be sure when you put the housing back in the truck, you line up the vent and defrost outlets with the end of the ac/heater housing. The ac/heater housing lines up to the outlets at the middle of the dash. I failed to do this, and now I have no defrost on my passenger side. I might fix it some day. Some things to remember are labeling where every vacuum line, nut, bolt, screw etc goes. And be sure to take it to a mechanic to have them evacuate and charge the ac lines. You could do that yourself if you have a vacuum pump and manifold gauges. I'm sure there's some things I forgot to mention, but hopefully this should get you started. Just ask if you have any questions. Good luck!!
vago34 is offline  
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to use most of our features, you must first register.
Please enter your desired User Name, your Email Address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
The registration process requires you to activate your membership by following a link in an E-Mail that will be sent to you immediately upon completing this form. You must enter a valid email address or you will not receive this activation code and you will NOT be registered. Your E-Mail address is NOT publicly available to anyone as policy.

AOL E-MAIL USERS: Please click HERE for important info pertaining to your e-mail address.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sit-Com Oil Change. Enjoy! christophercale 3G Dodge RAM - General Talk 22 12-31-2005 07:04 PM
dumb oil change question HEMIjerdelt 3G Dodge RAM - Drivetrain Talk 9 08-15-2005 10:07 PM
Oil Change Screw up fmdog44 3G Dodge RAM - General Talk 40 07-24-2005 05:05 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome